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What have you done to your K2 today?


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28 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

I like to also change the traction control, disable afm, clean up the commanded afr. The direct injection run better a little cleaner. Also you can remove torque management and then data log to see what the truck really has before the stock tune limits it.
Look at the afr and idle tables and see the engine coolant temp that the computer then allows for lower rpm at idle and the power enrichment. Also not everyone but some I find a issue in the tire size another reason I mess with traction control.
If truck as exhaust or intake you can adjust the air flow tables to try to make it calculate a like better with demanded throttle.
Biggest thing is data logging throttle voltage not percent. And then drive it. You will see demand 100% throttle body not then the game is to find out why?
Hp tuners for everything. For me.emoji106.png

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Yeah...You kept screaming about HP tuners so I made sure that was used.  The guy did do something with the AFR said, GM puts it this way and it blows.  I am pretty much stock but having this done made drive-ability night and day!  No codes, nothing crazy just quick cleaner shifts and little more PEP on 87! 

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12 hours ago, SWOYER said:

Never posted Pictures of my truck, so here's a few. 

 

Recently did the Denali Cluster, Amp powersteps, hellwig bars and Falken Wildpeak AT3's. Waiting on the 6112's to come in. 

 

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Very Nice SON!  I want to put the 6112's on mine too as I have pretty much have same setup as yours.  I would like to get a little better smoothing out on the crappy roads with the Helwig on front.  Feels like my 5100's are getting a little weak with 75K on them....Everything is a trade off and I simply could not keep my truck in the lane with factory EPS so numbing I couldn't feel the road at all.  The Helwig has been a gift from god for me other than slightly harsher ride...

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Installed the chrome grill overlay my daughter got me for Fathers Day. Looks like it could be  stock IMO at a waaaaay better price than the plastic chrome LTZ grill I considered and I think it will look better once I have the new front bumper color matched. 

 

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3 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

Autozone is currently at about $48 for a 5qt jug of Mobil1

Criminal insanity compared to wally world!

Autozone price matches, so just go to whatever store is closer to you.

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May I ask a question for those with 40k plus miles? How many trans pan drop and or flushes have you done by that mileage? Thank you.

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I have not done any. Planning to get it done on the next service.


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Got rough country light bar kit installed even with my grille shutters. Just finished my switch writing this morning so will test the light out tonight. Happy with the end results! 4ddc65a51a536f6d47e0b75856f84f1a.jpgb9805d1a5b90845f650a827c6994c0eb.jpgc17f89d8e4b5a36c14f50bbb205b1342.jpg

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Do you have a write-up of how you did this?


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9 hours ago, jgraves13 said:

 


Do you have a write-up of how you did this?


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For the most part I followed this thread, 

I did a couple things differently like instead of trimming some shutters, I just removed the bottom 2 fins on both sides since they just pop out. And instead of cutting the entire rough country bracket close to the bolt head like that member did, I chose to trim a portion of the back side of the grille to fit around the bracket as shown in my pictures below.

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I got to drive her again. Been in the body shop, but looks good as new.

 

Backstory:

 

Guy tried to back in a parking spot beside me on Mother’s Day while we were eating. Side swiped my driver door in the process. Mind you I have no idea this has happened, I’m inside the restaurant eating with no visual on the parking lot. He tried to run..thankfully there were a couple of guys waiting outside the restaurant to be seated that saw it happen, and they literally ran across the parking lot taking pictures and videos of the guy as he left. Apparently he saw them doing this, and decided to turn around. Hell they were ready to fight the guy bc they thought he flipped them off and he hit another mans truck and tried to run. They were more livid than I was. I don’t know who they were, wish I had got their info, I owe them some beer and another big thank you for saving me 1300.

 

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26 minutes ago, jgraves13 said:

No and there never will be from those. There is only one set of fins that go into the shutter motor and those are the ones that control tell the computer when they are opened and closed based on another little tab they have on them. All the other fins just clip into place and have a plastic rail the delivers the movement from the fins that go into the motor. So when I popped out the bottom two rows the computer will never know. The fins that go to the shutter motor are the third row from the bottom.

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So, I've been debating whether I wanted to do the rear bumper step light mod or not. I don't need the additional light for backing up, (I have 2" RC Pods for that purpose) but thought it might be nice for illuminating the step should I need to get into the bed at night. I ended up going ahead and installing 3/4" LED white pods that I tied into the reverse circuit. I did the cargo light / reverse light diode mod a while back, so whenever the cargo lights or reverse lights are on, the step lights will come on. Also added 3/4" LED red outer marker lights and tied them into parking lights.

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So, I've been debating whether I wanted to do the rear bumper step light mod or not. I don't need the additional light for backing up, (I have 2" RC Pods for that purpose) but thought it might be nice for illuminating the step should I need to get into the bed at night. I ended up going ahead and installing 3/4" LED white pods that I tied into the reverse circuit. I did the cargo light / reverse light diode mod a while back, so whenever the cargo lights or reverse lights are on, the step lights will come on. Also added 3/4" LED red outer marker lights and tied them into parking lights.
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So nice!



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Painted my front bumper.  I had previously plasti-dipped my front bumper in red.  It got a ding on the very front from when I didn't back into the garage far enough and the garage door dinged it knocking off the plasti-dip.  While planning to fix that issue I decided I wanted to try to paint over the plasti-dip to try to color match the paint.  It's not perfect but much closer.  Its a little too matte to finish.  I put on two coats of the Dupli-color clear over the top of the Victory Red.  Not sure if I need to add more clear or a better clear or what.  I am happy with it now but I was panicking a little yesterday.  I put on 3 cans worth of the touch up paint but each time I finished with a coat the red would get cloudy white looking almost like it would have if I sanded it.  It has been rainy and humid all last week and apparently the white was due to the humidity. I put on the clear on it still looked cloudy.  After a little Google/Youtube research I found that the cloudiness was most likely due to the humidity and could be solved with my heat gun.  Half an hour later I was much happier.  I am going to try polishing it next week to see if I can get more gloss out of the clear.

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Swapped out my stock 6.2L muffler and flapper and installed a Magnaflow 12909 (3.5" in and 3.5" out). The sound is nothing loud, just a deep grumble. I can hear it in the cab and I'm still debating whether or not I want to go back to silent.

 

Interesting to note, the 8-speed shifts much better now. No more banging into gear from 1-2 and 2-1 in slow in-town traffic.

Feels like a little loss of boost with my supercharger though. Typical when you add headers, but I didn't expect it to happen with just a muffler swap. Maybe that just goes to show how restrictive the stock muffler and flapper are. Maybe I can gain back some of the power in tuning though. With the stock exhaust, I used to get this "hyperspeed" feeling when boost came on, but now it's a little less of the "throw you back into your seat" feeling. That's a trade off though, because with the old shifting, there would be a slight pause in boost and methanol spray during a shift (MAF referenced with the methanol), then it would get back into the "hyperspeed" feeling, and now it just keeps pulling as it shifts through the gears much more smoothly.

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I believe you're referring to installing spacers in the front along with Bilstein 5100 in a raised position.  Op didn't mention that he added spacers to the front.   It does sound like he found the solution to his problem.  Bilstein level on max setting and 2" replacement rear blocks makes for a much nicer look than indicated in his pictures and I'm not surprised there may have been a error in setting selection!  Hopefully we'll see the "after" pictures!
They were indeed set to the second ring instead of top ring. Below is after the correction. 5100s on #4 with 2" blocks. Looks much better IMO. Included old photo as well for comparison.
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