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What have you done to your K2 today?


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So how do you like them compared to the old Ranchos ?

So far I’ve only done the rear. But I can already see a big difference. The front still bangs down on some stuff and the rear handles it a lot better. And it doesn’t dance as much around a curve of a crappy road. It’s stays put. I’m adding the Hellwig rear bar this weekend and then doing the fronts, and getting an alignment when I get some actual A/T tires on my “All-Terrain”. Hahah. Can’t wait to feel it all done. Should be a few more weeks.


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Make sure to let me know what the results are. Same on the trans temp mod. I had post a chart somewhere about the temp vs. Wear. Think it was like a MAX of 40k at our average temp. The 200*+ need change at 25-30k.
Does your truck have the trans lines in radiator or just condenser?
Oh and in the safest way possible at wot look and see what the oil pressure gauge jumps to. The gauge is squirrelly but I have worry of high spikes with heavy oil.

Let us know about trans temp using the flip method. I’ve been interested in doing that as opposed to buying / modifying.

I’ve seen the chart and it’s eye opening how drastic the decrease in life is as temps rise.
My trans lines enter the radiator at the lower driver’s side. (For those who are unaware, the fluid then travels up to the jumper tube at the top drivers side radiator where it then crosses over to the condenser then exits the condenser on the passenger side).

28 mile trip of suburban city driving. Exterior temp 89*F. Engine oil temp (estimated on data-log) was 200*F. Pressure at WOT was pretty stable between 40-50 psi until I hit about 4500RPM, that’s when it quickly rose up to 70psi on the factory gauge.

Trans temp was significantly lower than before the thermostat modification. My previous temps were 194-199*F average. I’m seeing average in the 160s now. After some spirited driving the absolute highest I saw was 181. It lasted for a couple seconds while stopped after my last hard pull. I assume the fans kicked on and brought it down. My fan duty cycle while cruising was 10% and 36% when stopped.

I have 4.56 gears so my trans RPM is higher than the average truck. It’s logical that this would work the fluid harder and cause higher temps, but I haven’t done a side by side comparison. Another big difference I’m noticing is how quickly the fluid temp drops after it rises.

All in all, I’m really happy with the results so far. I expect a pressure spike for the engine oil pressure as I enter the higher RPMs. Its my understanding that this is by design and a characteristic of our pumps. 1SLOW1500 might be able to explain the downsides that I’m not aware of.
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All that sounds great. That trans temp is life saving change. Some are seeing much higher oil pressure spikes. And at that point the question becomes how much pressure if too much? 80? And what is the lubrication at that point also what is harmed if any? Most say the pump. I don't have the answers. I don't believe a small change in the weight hurts anything. But if one has super high pressure that's a different story.

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10 hours ago, Sierra Dan said:

Good looking truck Sean.

What size Ridge Grapplers are you running?

 

 

Thanks Dan 

they are 33-12.50 r20 

Great tire if you ask me. they are really quiet 

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.. threw together a bike rack option to my cargo rack using strut channel and a couple second hand bike roof racks. First of two installed.. still need to fine tune the layout of the rack and set it a little farther back from the cab.. tomorrow

 

 

20190702_192728.jpg

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9 hours ago, slide187 said:

Delivered, plan on putting it in tomorrow emoji1360.png
fafc9a31c8a1d0393a009184116211a9.jpg


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are the bushings rubber or poly? what does the instructions say about the mounting? Like what hole is stiffer. and what is the increase over stock. I was going to have a bar made up. 

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are the bushings rubber or poly? what does the instructions say about the mounting? Like what hole is stiffer. and what is the increase over stock. I was going to have a bar made up. 

The bushings are poly, with steel inserts and they give you the grease for them. The hole closer to the end of the bar is the softest. So the furthest in is the stiffest as that makes the bar shorter essentially. As far as stock, this is the rear bar and I didn’t have a stock one so I’m sure it’ll be a pretty noticeable improvement. Hahaha

 

On my last truck (tundra) I had the Roadmaster active suspension springs on the leafs and they were awesome but those for this truck are about $160 more than the ones for my tundra were and about $190 more expensive than just getting this bar. But I put a hellwig on my 2004 ram 2500 and it was pretty impressive with body roll and sway control when I towed heavy so I trust their product.

 

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IMG-3199.thumb.JPG.0773d5304eeecec6b402aafad504bba6.JPG

Replaced the Tonnopro Hardfold with a Truxedo Pro X15, it's a soft roll up with canvas over vinyl... I was tempted by the Sentry which is the same roll up with the canvas top but, has hard aluminum slats too but, it was $890 w/ 3yr warrant, this was $490 & has a lifetime warranty....

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You don't have a stock one? Makes me wonder if I do? Never looked. Ha
Last question is will it clear a G2 style cover?

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Hahah no. I’ve def never had one stock on any of my trucks. Not sure about the G2 cover sizes but it has pretty good clearance around the OEM diff. BUT hellwig shorted me a 7/16” nylock nut. [emoji35][emoji35]

So I have to hold the end link to the bar on the pass side with a 3/8” for now till the right one gets here (Amazon 2-day). Good thing I’m not goin anywhere for the 4th.


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Found the screw that was rolling around above my head by the home link buttons. That was driving me nuts! Also relocated the AM/FM antenna into the engine compartment. I normally listen to XM except during Packer season. If the reception stinks I’ll put it back and try a stubby antenna.

Happy 4th everyone!!


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