New stereo upgrade build

Brent Lake · November 16, 2016

Hi Eric, question for you or anyone else that added a new amp but left the dash speakers to be powered by the stock non bose head unit, how did that work out? I'm assuming that you used the rear channel music source for the front doors as well to negate the chime from the door speakers. If so, did you loose any functionality from the steering wheel controls or the hands free phone connection? How did it sound? I'm still working out the details on my system. I'm leaning towards separates in the front doors, mids in stock location and tweets in door sail, two ways in rear doors, one sub under rear seat, all powered by one small 5 ch amp. I really don't want to amplify the chime if possible, the idea of leaving dash speakers to be powered by the deck sounds like a good option if everything else still works. Thanks in advance for any response!

maxum3300 · February 21, 2017

Hi Eric, question for you or anyone else that added a new amp but left the dash speakers to be powered by the stock non bose head unit, how did that work out? I'm assuming that you used the rear channel music source for the front doors as well to negate the chime from the door speakers. If so, did you loose any functionality from the steering wheel controls or the hands free phone connection? How did it sound? I'm still working out the details on my system. I'm leaning towards separates in the front doors, mids in stock location and tweets in door sail, two ways in rear doors, one sub under rear seat, all powered by one small 5 ch amp. I really don't want to amplify the chime if possible, the idea of leaving dash speakers to be powered by the deck sounds like a good option if everything else still works. Thanks in advance for any response!

Did you ever get an answer to this question? I am looking to add 2 10" JL Audio sub and amp but leave the door and dash speakers powered by the factory radio but I don't want the door chime to be any louder.

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chrmbly · January 7, 2019

I’m in the same boat, looking to try a lc2i from the rear speaker to an amp and leaving the dash speakers alone. I can’t seem to find anyone reporting what happened AFTER trying this, just suggesting it. Can anyone *CHIME* in if this works to deal with the door chimes and Bluetooth calling.

Edited January 7, 2019 by chrmbly

Jeepmike · January 17, 2019

On 1/7/2019 at 8:16 AM, chrmbly said:

I’m in the same boat, looking to try a lc2i from the rear speaker to an amp and leaving the dash speakers alone. I can’t seem to find anyone reporting what happened AFTER trying this, just suggesting it. Can anyone *CHIME* in if this works to deal with the door chimes and Bluetooth calling.

I'm with you. Looking to do exactly as you are but looking for some real world results.

chrmbly · January 17, 2019

Yeah I’ve kept digging and I’ve heard it works, but with lackluster results. I’ve found a few other options with varying degrees of difficulty and/or issues.

Option 1) cheaper and less hassle - AXXESS DSP with GMLAN-09 T harness. Deals with chime and gives you what looks to be a basic dsp. Total ~ $250 on fleabay

Option 2) PAC AMP PRO with a different DSP like a DSR-1 or MiniDsp - pricier but better adjustment of chime volumes. Issues with summing the right channel for essentially mono sound from satellite (AM/FM/XM). - only an issue with non Bose trucks (like mine). Option to go with TOSLINK output to the DSP for cleaner signal.- $350 + optional TOSLINK output + a DSP ($200-300 min).

Option 3) Screw it and go M650 AND get a dsp. Now we’re over a grand and I’m not really willing to jump that high.

Im between option 1 or 2. 2 is a little more money, but I watched a few installs from 5 star audio (good info in those) and it seems the chime control volume for the Axxess unit only works if installed in Bose equipped cars for some reason. It still gives you chimes, but just at an unknown level. The nice thing about option 2 is that dial for dealing with the chimes - plus having the optical out gives me more dsp options later on if I go that path. I never really listen to the stereo or XM anyway, all car play. Even if it does bother me, I’m thinking it may be possible to just replace the radio module in the truck with one from a Bose unit - that’d require someone to program to my VIN (which will be a decent outlay of $$ - maybe $175 for the module and programming to find out it may or may not work).

Decisions decisions...

chrmbly · January 17, 2019

For $250 vs $100 for just the audiocontrol LOC, I almost think the metra kit is worth it since it gives you a basic dsp as well.

Jeepmike · January 17, 2019

25 minutes ago, chrmbly said:

Yeah I’ve kept digging and I’ve heard it works, but with lackluster results. I’ve found a few other options with varying degrees of difficulty and/or issues.

Option 1) cheaper and less hassle - AXXESS DSP with GMLAN-09 T harness. Deals with chime and gives you what looks to be a basic dsp. Total ~ $250 on fleabay

Option 2) PAC AMP PRO with a different DSP like a DSR-1 or MiniDsp - pricier but better adjustment of chime volumes. Issues with summing the right channel for essentially mono sound from satellite (AM/FM/XM). - only an issue with non Bose trucks (like mine). Option to go with TOSLINK output to the DSP for cleaner signal.- $350 + optional TOSLINK output + a DSP ($200-300 min).

Option 3) Screw it and go M650 AND get a dsp. Now we’re over a grand and I’m not really willing to jump that high.

Im between option 1 or 2. 2 is a little more money, but I watched a few installs from 5 star audio (good info in those) and it seems the chime control volume for the Axxess unit only works if installed in Bose equipped cars for some reason. It still gives you chimes, but just at an unknown level. The nice thing about option 2 is that dial for dealing with the chimes - plus having the optical out gives me more dsp options later on if I go that path. I never really listen to the stereo or XM anyway, all car play. Even if it does bother me, I’m thinking it may be possible to just replace the radio module in the truck with one from a Bose unit - that’d require someone to program to my VIN (which will be a decent outlay of $$ - maybe $175 for the module and programming to find out it may or may not work).

Decisions decisions...

What's the lackluster results you speak of? I was really hoping to just go the lc2i route and tie into rear door speakers because it seems the simplest to figure out. I wouldn't mind doing something else, but I can't find much info regarding the non Bose.

BrevardCty Rado · January 19, 2019

So I am gonna piggy back on this thread if you don't mind. If I simply want to add an amplifier to my BOSE equipped 2018 Silverado system to power a new subwoofer enclosure what is the best route to take for a clean signal for my subs? Thanks for any help.