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Hello everyone. My first time here. I have a 2021 Sierra AT4 with the 6.2L. I have started to notice a noise when towing our boat that weighs about 6,000lbs. Several times during the trip to and from the lake I hear a rumbling sound that last like 2-4 sec. almost sounds like it can be a jake brake or hitting rumble strips on road. I hit no strips. I can’t recall if it happens on downshift or what. But it does concern me. I drove home from work today with our towing and put it in tow haul mode. It made the noise 3 times in 45 min drive. Any ideas what I’m dealing with? Would it be a bad clutch issue or is this normal? I do have the performance GM installed exhaust and performance GM installed air intake. I called dealer today and they said bring it by and they MIGHT have time to get to it next week. I planned to hit the lake this weekend for Labor Day. Thanks.
I found a cheap pair of T1 Power folding mirrors on 1AAUTO (NON OEM) that are meant just as a replacement to the OEM Memory Package mirrors, obviously I don't have the memory package but I really wanted to give this a try and so far I would call it a success!
This is what I ordered:
P/N: 1AMRP03092 The Mirrors (from 1AAUTO.COM) P/N: 84532268 The OEM Power Fold Switch (from any GM Parts store) 22-20 Ga. Female GT 150 Series, Sealed #12191818 The Terminals (from amazon)
22 AWG 6 conductor wire The Cable (from amazon)
And The heart of the project: a generic, Chinese, Cheap Power fold mirror controller (from amazon)
I WILL MOSLTY BE FOCUSING ON EXPLAINING THE DRIVERS SIDE FOR THIS POST, IT IS ALMOST THE SAME ON THE PASSANGER SIDE EXCEPT THAT SIDE HAS THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR. WHEN YOU DISCONNECT THIS SENSOR AND RECONNECT IT THE TRUCK WILL SHOW -40 DEGREES, TO RECALIBRATE THE AMBIENT TEMP SENSOR YOU MUST DRIVE GREATER THAN 65MPH FOR MORE THAN 1 MINUTE.
Now my goal for this project was just to be able to power fold my mirrors when I leave my truck and lock the doors, but also unfold when I unlock. I haven't received the interior switch just yet but I am planning on figuring out how to make it work!
I started with checking my door harnesses for any existing wire that would make this easier, my truck came from the factory with the wiring for power adjustable mirrors, heated mirrors, and the puddle/task lamps (which is odd because my OEM mirrors did not have the puddle nor task lamps. The new aftermarket mirrors did include the two lights and I was able to get both of them working.
Next I played with the generic power fold mirror controller to see how it worked. It has the inputs for lock and unlock as well as inputs for an interior switch. The power inputs are +12V,GND, and ACC. There is just one two-wire output to fold and unfold the mirrors by switching the polarity of the motors. The ACC Wire (Accessory) is required because the controller folds and unfolds the mirrors based on the lock status. When ACC is applied the lock and unlock folding feature is disabled.
Next I looked at the GM Upfitter Electrical pinout section to see what pins I was looking for on the Mirror. There are only two pins for the Power Fold Motor,
Pin 3 Circuit 3412 Driver Mirror Motor Fold IN Control Pin 15 Circuit 3411 Driver Mirror Motor Fold Out Control
I first ran the new wires from the drivers side fuse panel to each mirror going under the dash and through the door harness holes and boots. I then terminated two leads on each side right at the mirror, the cable I used had 6 wires but I just wanted extra for any future projects. The mirrors went on without a hitch, and I pulled the locking pin off the mirror connector and put in my new two terminated leads in there correct positions (polarity really doesn't matter because reversing the polarity will just make the motor turn the wrong way).
Now we have two new power folding mirrors with our own DIY harnesses installed and ready to go.
Next is finding your power sources and Lock and Unlock signals. For the +12V I used literally any fuse on the drivers side (they are all always powered) and for the ACC I had to run a wire to the heated steering wheel fuse on the passenger side (The passenger side fuse box has both always on power and accessory power). For the lock and unlock signals I used Pins 2 and 4 of the K9 Body Control Module pink X6 connector. These are for the drivers door lock actuator.
Finally with the ignition off so that ACC is not powered connect the Fold control wires from the controller to the mirrors and press the lock and unlock button to get the polarity correct. If its wrong just flip the two wires for that corresponding mirror.
If you have any questions just reply!
You can see the Generic controller tucked away inside the drivers side fuse panel.
I am currently in the market for a camper and I am wondering how much weight I can tow. I have 2019 Silverado 1500 RST 5.3 V8 crew cab short bed. From what I can find online I should be “okay”, but really wanted some feedback from those of you that have a similar setup. I am aware the 2500 is the ideal setup, but that will be down the line a bit for me.
Truck Trailering Info:
GAWR RR 3800lbs
Max Payload 1819lbs
Max Tongue Weight 960lbs
Curb Weight 5281lbs
The camper I am looking at has a dry weight of 6300lbs and GVWR of 9,480lbs (no intent to load our camper down or travel with full tanks). Hitch weight of the camper is 680lbs. 32’ 11” tongue to bumper. Really only looking at going camping within 100 miles on the weekends.
We typically travel light with basic necessities for hook up campgrounds (clothes, food, chairs).
any help would be great!
By Jacob D
Hello everyone! I just recently purchased a 2021 Sierra 1500 3.0L which will mainly be used to tow my center console around to local lakes and to Florida a couple times a year. I did NOT get the max trailering package mainly due to a mix up and having to switch trucks because someone purchased the one I went to look at and I didn't notice (yeah).
My boat is a 24' center console and weights about 2500lbs, plus around 800lbs for the engine, around 800lbs for fuel (105gal tank) and the trailer. My best guess is between 4,500-5,500lbs. When towing to Florida the rear end sagged quit a bit. I picked up some Airlift 5000 air bags and compressor hoping this will resolve the sagging but now I am wondering if it will help at all. We used to tow with a 2018 Tahoe that had the max trailering package so it had air bags on it already. To be completely honest, I do not know exactly what the 9.76" rear axle and 3.42 axle ratio in the max trailering package will help which is what comes in the max trailering package. I know it has heavy-duty rear springs as well which I figure would of helped with this sagging.
Will I be creating problems with the air bags? Obviously I don't really want to trade in the truck already for a new one due to the lost money on having to pay taxes twice, not to mention the loss in value from having 2,000 miles on it already.
Hello! I'm a new member looking for some opinions on towing. I have an 88 Chevrolet r20 suburban (3/4 ton). It's a 454/th400 combo. Not 💯 sure on the rear gear as the speedo reads about 10 mph off at 60 so some previous owner has tampered with the rear gear I'm sure considering it use to haul a travel trailer back in the day for a gentleman in the air force. Assuming I replace the 33 year old leaf springs, brakes are in good working order, etc etc do you think it would tow a 8k travel trailer safely at say 60-65 mph with trailer brakes. I plan to install a Firestone airbag leveling system on the rear as well. The factory hitch says it's rated for 10000 GVWR with a weight distribution hitch. I don't see a GCWR anywhere. Trailer specs are 36ft, Dry weight of 7756lbs, with a hitch weight of 942lbs.
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