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Rigid Fog Lights - D-Series DOT/SAE Certified


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Yes, and they aren't specifically labeled? I couldn't imagine them being in the driver side fuse panel

Checking schematics now but here is the relay information, in the X50A fuse box, relay KR46. E29LF Fog Lamp-Left Front, E29RF Fog Lamp- Right Front, F48UA

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K9 Body Control Module, connector X5, In on Pin 15, color code=D-BU/GY, circuit 192 Front Fog Lamp Switch Signal

Out on pin 10 Color code=BN/WH, circuit 1317

 

 

Checking schematics now but here is the relay information, in the X50A fuse box, relay KR46. E29LF Fog Lamp-Left Front, E29RF Fog Lamp- Right Front, F48UA

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Checking schematics now but here is the relay information, in the X50A fuse box, relay KR46. E29LF Fog Lamp-Left Front, E29RF Fog Lamp- Right Front, F48UA

I found the same thing on the gmupfitter site, but I have no clue what relay is KR46. I don't see anything listed on them other than part numbers. This relay is supposed to be in the black fuse box on the driver side in the engine bay correct?

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I found the same thing on the gmupfitter site, but I have no clue what relay is KR46. I don't see anything listed on them other than part numbers. This relay is supposed to be in the black fuse box on the driver side in the engine bay correct?

 

I know and it has no position # listed. Here is one schematic that you may have already looked at. I was thinking that the BSM may be not liking the headlights being disconnected but why did the fogs work for 15 minutes. Do you have the ability to reconnect the headlamps and anything else electrical, then do a power disconnect/reconnect?

post-124619-0-16827900-1451352505_thumb.jpg

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post-124619-0-16827900-1451352505_thumb.jpg

post-124619-0-16827900-1451352505_thumb.jpg

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I know and it has no position # listed. Here is one schematic that you may have already looked at. I was thinking that the BSM may be not liking the headlights being disconnected but why did the fogs work for 15 minutes. Do you have the ability to reconnect the headlamps and anything else electrical, then do a power disconnect/reconnect?

Yea, that's the schematic I was looking at. Well I hooked up the headlamps but there is a kicker. I did the RX350 retrofit and when I ordered the HIDs, I ordered the D2S igniter instead of the AMP igniters on accident. Now I could make them work, but that would require further mods to the housing to clear the 90* igniter, so I ordered the AMP igniters today (will be here Wednesday). That said, the headlights have power and the park lights come on as do the blinkers when selected, but the projectors don't have power since the ballasts aren't hooked up (missing the igniters).

 

Edit: the projectors have power, but the bulbs don't.

 

I'm not too keen on the new bcm and electrical stuff that the vehicle makers do to vehicles now a days so I don't know if that's what's causing the issue or not. It just seems odd that the lights worked and then didn't and now I have no power to the plugs at all.

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I know and it has no position # listed. Here is one schematic that you may have already looked at. I was thinking that the BSM may be not liking the headlights being disconnected but why did the fogs work for 15 minutes. Do you have the ability to reconnect the headlamps and anything else electrical, then do a power disconnect/reconnect?

 

KR46 fog relay is shown on multiple diagrams, but I cannot ID its position in the box.

post-124619-0-84418000-1451353416_thumb.jpg

post-124619-0-84418000-1451353416_thumb.jpg

post-124619-0-84418000-1451353416_thumb.jpg

post-124619-0-84418000-1451353416_thumb.jpg

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My best guess at this point is to complete the headlamp mods, ensure all lights are working except the fogs then disconnect the battery and reconnect. In the meantime try to locate the relay. I will look at my truck tomorrow and see If I can locate it.

Yea, that's the schematic I was looking at. Well I hooked up the headlamps but there is a kicker. I did the RX350 retrofit and when I ordered the HIDs, I ordered the D2S igniter instead of the AMP igniters on accident. Now I could make them work, but that would require further mods to the housing to clear the 90* igniter, so I ordered the AMP igniters today (will be here Wednesday). That said, the headlights have power and the park lights come on as do the blinkers when selected, but the projectors don't have power since the ballasts aren't hooked up (missing the igniters).

Edit: the projectors have power, but the bulbs don't.

I'm not too keen on the new bcm and electrical stuff that the vehicle makers do to vehicles now a days so I don't know if that's what's causing the issue or not. It just seems odd that the lights worked and then didn't and now I have no power to the plugs at all.

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My best guess at this point is to complete the headlamp mods, ensure all lights are working except the fogs then disconnect the battery and reconnect. In the meantime try to locate the relay. I will look at my truck tomorrow and see If I can locate it.

Yea, I'm calling it a night. I'm going to read up on the relays more tomorrow while at work and see if I can track anything down. The igniters will be here Wednesday and I'll get them installed and running and see if that fixes it or not. If not i may just bring it in to the dealer to have them check it out. I have a feeling they'll blame the rigid lights though so it may be on my dime.

 

I really appreciate all of your help in this btw! If you happen to come across anything please let me know. I'll be all ears lol

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Ok, so i think i found the problem or at least part of it. So this morning before work i was talking to a friend of mine and he kept saying that he feels like its a blown fuse and i expressed to him that i thought the same thing, but that the fuse looked good. He told me that sometimes a fuse wont completely blow (something about burning the metal inside without it popping and it wont work due to conductivity or something like that (idk)), but will look fine. He told me to try another fuse in its place and to see what happens. So i pulled the fuse and looked at it when i got to work and its definitely burnt (ish) looking. Its quite hard to actually see it and is probably why i didn't see it the other night in the dark using my work light. I don't have the bumper harness with me at work since i took it off last night to check everything, so i cant test this just yet, but i have a feeling that he may be right and the fuse is actually bad. I'm at least hoping he is anyways lol

 

Now.. this leads to the next issue. Why did the fuse go bad, if it is indeed bad? A short somewhere? Do you think that maybe the ground lead on the capacitor link for the HID's (its loose right now behind the headlight) could have touched something and caused short and the fuse to fail? I don't know if they correlate or not and I'm just throwing ideas/possibilities.

 

I feel like the plug crossovers that i made are good, but maybe the solder failed or broke somehow during the install? I think this is unlikely, but I'm going to redo them tonight just in case. I'm also going to replace the fuse and test the harness with the voltmeter to check the voltage at the plugs.

 

If there is a short in the line, would i see a drop in voltage at the plug from what the fuse box shows? Is there a way to test the plug crossovers i made to see if maybe there is a short there before redoing them?

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It is sometimes hard to tell if a fuse is blown visually but an ohm meter never lies. Also just swap fuses when in doubt with a nearby equal rated fuse. If need be you can do the same with the micro relays since it can be hard to ID which terminals to measure the coil resistance on many relays. I would check all wiring you have done for correct polarity using an ohm meter. If you have a short I would expect the fuse to blow again. At this point you need to eliminate the modifications you have made so far, even if you have to disconnect the crossovers. I cannot say much more since I am not familiar with everything you have done with the electrical system. If you isolate all new work done from the truck wiring you should be able to restore power to the fogs and then trace back thru the other mods for the problem. Hope this makes sense, hard to explain in text, best I can do from afar!

Ok, so i think i found the problem or at least part of it. So this morning before work i was talking to a friend of mine and he kept saying that he feels like its a blown fuse and i expressed to him that i thought the same thing, but that the fuse looked good. He told me that sometimes a fuse wont completely blow (something about burning the metal inside without it popping and it wont work due to conductivity or something like that (idk)), but will look fine. He told me to try another fuse in its place and to see what happens. So i pulled the fuse and looked at it when i got to work and its definitely burnt (ish) looking. Its quite hard to actually see it and is probably why i didn't see it the other night in the dark using my work light. I don't have the bumper harness with me at work since i took it off last night to check everything, so i cant test this just yet, but i have a feeling that he may be right and the fuse is actually bad. I'm at least hoping he is anyways lol

 

Now.. this leads to the next issue. Why did the fuse go bad, if it is indeed bad? A short somewhere? Do you think that maybe the ground lead on the capacitor link for the HID's (its loose right now behind the headlight) could have touched something and caused short and the fuse to fail? I don't know if they correlate or not and I'm just throwing ideas/possibilities.

 

I feel like the plug crossovers that i made are good, but maybe the solder failed or broke somehow during the install? I think this is unlikely, but I'm going to redo them tonight just in case. I'm also going to replace the fuse and test the harness with the voltmeter to check the voltage at the plugs.

 

If there is a short in the line, would i see a drop in voltage at the plug from what the fuse box shows? Is there a way to test the plug crossovers i made to see if maybe there is a short there before redoing them?

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So I found the culprit!

Last night I did a complete redo of the crossover pig tails that I had made. Today I wrapped up my rx350 retro and then focused on the rigid fog light issue. I bought a bag of fuses (15amp) and began testing. I replaced the fuse and then started the truck (with everything hooked up) and it instantly popped. Disconnected the driver side fog light (left pigtail hooked up to the harness and repeated the process and pop. Disconnected the pigtail and tried again and all good. I then plugged the pigtail back in while the truck key was turned and fog switch was on and pop, blew the fuse again. Disconnected pigtail and replaced fuse and flipped the switch and all is good. Seems that I have a short in the driver side crossover I made. I don't think it's a solder issue because it looked great last night when I redid them. Maybe the cheap plug wire(fog light plug pigtail) I bought was already weak when I received them? Idk. I'm going to get another one and redo the crossover for the driver side and all should be good ?

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  • 1 month later...

I just wanted to chime in here and share my experience with my Rigid DOT fogs so far.

 

Overall I give them a 10/10. Can't beat the Rigid quality. You definitely get what you pay for and these fog lights are better than anything I've ever seen. So last night I'm currently going through a move and I had the bed of my truck loaded full of stuff and a trailer loaded with stuff so my truck probably had an inch or two of squat. My headlights are 55W 6500K TRS, so I was getting flashed right and left as my headlights were way up in the trees. Once I got onto a pretty well traveled 2 lane back road, I didn't feel good about literally blinding other drivers so I decided to just try using my fogs only. Unbelievable. Believe it or not, they can easily be used as a second set of headlights. I could see wide and still pretty far. No more blinding other drivers and I could see just fine. When there wasn't oncoming traffic, I would just flip on my LED bar and could see forever. Even my Dad (who is pretty old school and things spending money of "fancy" lights is a waste) was impressed. He couldn't believe I was only driving with my fog lights. He called me this morning and asked "Hey, those fancy little lights you had on last night, would they fit on my suburban?" I got a good laugh out of it.

 

Just wanted to share this so if anyone is on the fence about whether or not they are worth getting, I wouldn't hesitate one bit.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hate to stir up an old thread with a stupid question, but would the DOT Rigids look real stupid with stock headlights? I'd like to do the TRS 35w Sierra Spec kit eventually but I'm worried about altering such a new vehicle.

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