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Bilstein shocks thread


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They return an email yesterday, took about twelve hours for the response. Here is what they said.

 

I can see that they just finished their batch and have 150 in stock as of today. Theres a chance yours has already shipped, checking with my rep to see if it has

 

Will let you know as soon as I hear back

 

Battle Born Offroad

www.BattleBornOffroad.net

M-F: 10AM-6PM

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After installing my 6112s on the highest setting, 5160s and 3/4" higher rear blocks, my '15 NHT measured  37.5" front and 40.25" rear from the ground to bottom of black fender trim. If I had known I'd still have plenty of rake without installing thicker rear blocks, I wouldn't have bothered. I still had 2" of rake. 

 

As others have mentioned, the ride difference on normal roads isn't drastic compared to stock, I do feel slightly more isolated from the bumps. I had a chance to go over some speed bumps and those are way better thankfully. I haven't had a chance to go off-road yet but the speed bump performance gives me hope. My truck has about 43k miles and all original shocks still seemed to be in good shape.

 

2BD783DC-5F2C-4B10-9E9B-6164D27611B5.thumb.jpeg.ad078ad9044620c1db70e53932c6ff9d.jpeg

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It doesn't look like it's 2 3/4" in the pic.

Try measuring from the fender to the bottom of the rim.

My 18 6.2 nht 4x4 has 6112 at max, 5100 rear and 1" shackle lift and is only 1" higher rear.

What was the rake before putting the shocks?

Is it 2wd?

Looks good though

Could always remove the block if you don't like it.

 

 

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On 8/31/2019 at 3:28 PM, Red_5 said:

After installing my 6112s on the highest setting, 5160s and 3/4" higher rear blocks, my '15 NHT measured  37.5" front and 40.25" rear from the ground to bottom of black fender trim. If I had known I'd still have plenty of rake without installing thicker rear blocks, I wouldn't have bothered. I still had 2" of rake. 

 

As others have mentioned, the ride difference on normal roads isn't drastic compared to stock, I do feel slightly more isolated from the bumps. I had a chance to go over some speed bumps and those are way better thankfully. I haven't had a chance to go off-road yet but the speed bump performance gives me hope. My truck has about 43k miles and all original shocks still seemed to be in good shape.

 

2BD783DC-5F2C-4B10-9E9B-6164D27611B5.thumb.jpeg.ad078ad9044620c1db70e53932c6ff9d.jpeg

I don't even brake for speed bumps anymore...

My 6112's just laughs at them

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14 hours ago, Slash L86 said:

It doesn't look like it's 2 3/4" in the pic.

Try measuring from the fender to the bottom of the rim.

My 18 6.2 nht 4x4 has 6112 at max, 5100 rear and 1" shackle lift and is only 1" higher rear.

What was the rake before putting the shocks?

Is it 2wd?

Looks good though

Could always remove the block if you don't like it.

 

Unfortunately I don’t remember the before measurements. I just measured again from the middle of the “M” in the wheel emblem and rear measured 2.5” higher than the front.

 

Because I tow a fairly heavy trailer, I’m fine with the rake. Definitely not worth the effort to remove the taller blocks. I’m just surprised it isn’t closer to level.

 

My truck is a 4x4.

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On 8/27/2019 at 10:35 PM, madsen203 said:

It’s true about the trade off. I’ve gotten used to the stiffer ride but overall, the handling has improved. The rear end is more planted and thus I have much less wheel spin/chirping when making a turn from a stop or on an off camber. 

 

Im happy with it but it is definitely more rough riding. I miss the smooth sailing over the tar strip and the like but when I hit a big bump or rough terrain while in a turn, I’m glad to have the 5100’s. 

 

Overall, I’d say it was worth it for what I was seeking. I bought a truck expecting a truck ride. If I wanted the caddy feel, I’d kept it stock. Maybe some progressive shocks vs digressive would be better for those who want a more comfortable, yet compliant ride.  

Stock definitely isn't a caddy ride.  

 

I bought a truck expecting a truck ride too. This is the firmest riding truck I've ever had though.  

 

17" Method NVs and 285/70r17s have been ordered.  Gittyup.  

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On 9/1/2019 at 7:56 PM, Slash L86 said:

It doesn't look like it's 2 3/4" in the pic.

Try measuring from the fender to the bottom of the rim.

My 18 6.2 nht 4x4 has 6112 at max, 5100 rear and 1" shackle lift and is only 1" higher rear.

What was the rake before putting the shocks?

Is it 2wd?

Looks good though

Could always remove the block if you don't like it.

 

 

What's your measurement from the center of your wheels to the bottom of the fender liner front and rear? Center of the wheel measurement shouldn't be affected by wheel or tire sizes.

 

I don't have the instructions anymore but was wondering if it's possible the guy who assembled my 6112s compressed the springs too much with the nut on the top of the shock hat preloading the springs and reducing the front ride height. Just a thought.

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7 hours ago, Red_5 said:

was wondering if it's possible the guy who assembled my 6112s compressed the springs too much with the nut on the top of the shock hat preloading the springs and reducing the front ride height. Just a thought.

Post up some pictures of how many of the snap ring grooves are showing on your shocks. That should let us know what height you are set at. 

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19 minutes ago, dubwise said:

Post up some pictures of how many of the snap ring grooves are showing on your shocks. That should let us know what height you are set at. 

It’s definitely on the top position.

 

9845DC50-B2D7-47D7-BDA7-8B10789DCC01.jpeg

Edited by Red_5
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54 minutes ago, Red_5 said:

It’s definitely on the top position.

 

9845DC50-B2D7-47D7-BDA7-8B10789DCC01.jpeg

Hmmm ya that definitely looks correct. Could it be somehow that your suspension is binding up? I see in the pic your suspension should be at full droop (assuming there is no jack under the LCA in pic) but it looks as though your UCA is not hitting the droop stop...? I looked at my spring p/n and its the exact same as yours.

 

For reference here's where I'm at with a 275/65R20 tire with Bilstein 6112s + 1/4 spacer (.5" lift & stock aluminum UCAs):

 

24" from fender to center hub.

39.75" from fender to ground.

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59 minutes ago, dubwise said:

Hmmm ya that definitely looks correct. Could it be somehow that your suspension is binding up? I see in the pic your suspension should be at full droop (assuming there is no jack under the LCA in pic) but it looks as though your UCA is not hitting the droop stop...? I looked at my spring p/n and its the exact same as yours.

 

For reference here's where I'm at with a 275/65R20 tire with Bilstein 6112s + 1/4 spacer (.5" lift & stock aluminum UCAs):

 

24" from fender to center hub.

39.75" from fender to ground.

There's something strange going on and I might have to do some research before digging in. My passenger side front is just over 23" from center of wheel to the bottom of the trim and the rear is 24.5" so less than 1.5" difference. Driver's rear is 25.25" and front is roughly 22.75", maybe closer to 23" but still under. Passenger side has the front to rear height difference I had expected. I was under the truck looking at the rears to see why there might be 3/4" difference from side to side but I don't see anything. Blocks have the thicker parts to the rear on both sides. No visible gaps meaning something wasn't put together right. The nuts on the front shock shafts both look to have a very similar amount of thread showing but I was having a hard time getting close enough to get a good measurement with them in the engine bay.

 

 

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23 minutes ago, Red_5 said:

There's something strange going on and I might have to do some research before digging in. My passenger side front is just over 23" from center of wheel to the bottom of the trim and the rear is 24.5" so less than 1.5" difference. Driver's rear is 25.25" and front is roughly 22.75", maybe closer to 23" but still under. Passenger side has the front to rear height difference I had expected. I was under the truck looking at the rears to see why there might be 3/4" difference from side to side but I don't see anything. Blocks have the thicker parts to the rear on both sides. No visible gaps meaning something wasn't put together right. The nuts on the front shock shafts both look to have a very similar amount of thread showing but I was having a hard time getting close enough to get a good measurement with them in the engine bay.

 

 

3/4 rear variance could just be uneven surface?

I'm check my measurements tomorrow when I get back in town.

Could 1 leaf spring already be weakening or got a bad rear shock?

I'll also measure front coils and post as well. 

Doubt they could have been over compressed. 

I do know someone (Mexican homie) that intentionally took a torch and heated his s10 blazer coils back in the day cause low riders in SoCal was the thing to do. Needless to say I was told it rode like shit.

How's the rebound jumping on each side of rear bumper? 

Edited by Slash L86
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I haven't done anything else to figure out my odd measurements but after doing more driving, I think the ride is getting even better. I noticed that my body subconsciously tenses up when it knows I'm about to drive over bumps that I hit everyday and the hits just don't seem as bad as they once did. I still have less than 200 miles on the 6112/5160 setup and I'm more pleased everyday.

 

I think I read somewhere that the 6112 springs were softer than the OEM springs and I believe it. The truck does seem to lean slightly more in turns but it isn't bad. The truck now rides like I think a 4x4 truck that had a nearly $60k MSRP should ride. Money well spent. 

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When I did all of mine with bilstein 5100’s i did notice that the drivers side measured very slightly lower than the passenger side. But in talking 1/8”-1/4” difference but I thought that typically has to do with a full fuel tank. As it’s less or not noticeable when she’s close to empty.


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