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hutch08

Calling all leveled/lifted trucks with All Terrain factory 20's

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My truck is a 2015 crew cab short box sierra all terrain.

I'm running a Rough Country +2.5" level up front and +1" blocks out back. Tires are 295/55r20 Toyo Open Country A/T2 Xtreme tires. So far I've been really pleased with the level and tires but I noticed something interesting tonight when i decided to crawl underneath and remove my front air dam.

 

At full lock my tires are rubbing both my upper control arm and sway bar. Here's some pictures for reference:

 

20150207_212520_zpslsj03gez.jpg

 

20150207_212154_zpstp0jiaxt.jpg

 

20150207_212131_zpsekb2kmbt.jpg

 

Both sides are exactly the same. I can't actually feel the rubbing when turning, hence why I was so shocked to see it.

The sway bar doesn't overly bother me because its the edge of the tread actually rubbing, but the UCA rubbing the sidewall is somewhat concerning to me.

 

I know a lot of you say you're running 305/55r20 or 33x12.5 MT's with no rubbing but I can't see how that's possible if my 33x11.5's are. I'd appreciate any info on lift specs, tire brand/size, and if you have aluminum UCA's or not.

 

Also maybe I'm fretting over nothing but any insight is appreciated.

 

Thanks!

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My truck is a 2015 crew cab short box sierra all terrain.

I'm running a Rough Country +2.5" level up front and +1" blocks out back. Tires are 295/55r20 Toyo Open Country A/T2 Xtreme tires. So far I've been really pleased with the level and tires but I noticed something interesting tonight when i decided to crawl underneath and remove my front air dam.

 

At full lock my tires are rubbing both my upper control arm and sway bar. Here's some pictures for reference:

 

20150207_212520_zpslsj03gez.jpg

 

20150207_212154_zpstp0jiaxt.jpg

 

20150207_212131_zpsekb2kmbt.jpg

 

Both sides are exactly the same. I can't actually feel the rubbing when turning, hence why I was so shocked to see it.

The sway bar doesn't overly bother me because its the edge of the tread actually rubbing, but the UCA rubbing the sidewall is somewhat concerning to me.

 

I know a lot of you say you're running 305/55r20 or 33x12.5 MT's with no rubbing but I can't see how that's possible if my 33x11.5's are. I'd appreciate any info on lift specs, tire brand/size, and if you have aluminum UCA's or not.

 

Also maybe I'm fretting over nothing but any insight is appreciated.

 

Thanks!

I'm running 2" Readylift level with 2" blocks in the back. 275 60 R20 tires with no rubbing at all. Tempted to go 285 60 R20 but I don't think theres room. Not sure if my UCA's are aluminum or not...

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My truck is a 2015 crew cab short box sierra all terrain.

I'm running a Rough Country +2.5" level up front and +1" blocks out back. Tires are 295/55r20 Toyo Open Country A/T2 Xtreme tires. So far I've been really pleased with the level and tires but I noticed something interesting tonight when i decided to crawl underneath and remove my front air dam.

At full lock my tires are rubbing both my upper control arm and sway bar. Here's some pictures for reference:20150207_212520_zpslsj03gez.jpg20150207_212154_zpstp0jiaxt.jpg20150207_212131_zpsekb2kmbt.jpg

Both sides are exactly the same. I can't actually feel the rubbing when turning, hence why I was so shocked to see it.

The sway bar doesn't overly bother me because its the edge of the tread actually rubbing, but the UCA rubbing the sidewall is somewhat concerning to me.

I know a lot of you say you're running 305/55r20 or 33x12.5 MT's with no rubbing but I can't see how that's possible if my 33x11.5's are. I'd appreciate any info on lift specs, tire brand/size, and if you have aluminum UCA's or not.

Also maybe I'm fretting over nothing but any insight is appreciated.

Thanks!

It's your stock wheel offset. I'm running same lift (rc 2.5)and same exact tire (toyo at2 295/55/20) as you, but on hostage 20x9 wheels with +1 offset. I have no rub anywhere of anykind.

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2" RC front only (under coil); Toyo 295/55/R20 OC A/Ts on stock 20x9-0 Denali rims; I too get the sway bar rub at full lock turning but since I'm aware of it I try to avoid full lock turns. I don't worry about it too much though and was advised it should not be a problem unless I get to hard with it. I don't off road and basically only wanted 4WHD for traction purposes in winter driving.

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What does this have to do with all terrains specifically?

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What does this have to do with all terrains specifically?

Nothing specific to the All-Terrains, more so the factory AT 20" wheels. I wanted to hear from others with the same size, offset, backspacing, etc...

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2" RC front only (under coil); Toyo 295/55/R20 OC A/Ts on stock 20x9-0 Denali rims; I too get the sway bar rub at full lock turning but since I'm aware of it I try to avoid full lock turns. I don't worry about it too much though and was advised it should not be a problem unless I get to hard with it. I don't off road and basically only wanted 4WHD for traction purposes in winter driving.

Pretty sure stock Denali 20" wheels are just chrome versions of the All-Terrains. Are you also rubbing the front of the UCA, and is it steel(black) or aluminum(silver)?

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Pretty sure stock Denali 20" wheels are just chrome versions of the All-Terrains. Are you also rubbing the front of the UCA, and is it steel(black) or aluminum(silver)?

 

The Denali is not the same wheel as the A-T. The OE Denali wheel is a stamped chrome 20x9 wheel with 0-offset. UCA is Alum. no rubbing on CA, only slight brush rub against side of sway bar. May be the due to the size/type of leveling lift I had done (2" RC).

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The Denali is not the same wheel as the A-T. The OE Denali wheel is a stamped chrome 20x9 wheel with 0-offset. UCA is Alum. no rubbing on CA, only slight brush rub against side of sway bar. May be the due to the size/type of leveling lift I had done (2" RC).

 

Are these the wheels you have? ... They don't look like a 0 offset wheel, but I guess looks can be deceiving.

 

2014-gmc-sierra-denali-wheels.jpg

 

 

Suprised how the Denali has less + offset than an "all-terrain"... haha

 

Here's my wheels and tires, 20x9 +27mm offset:

 

20150208_100453_zpsrhdqxaee.jpg

 

20150208_100306_zpsaer99u0c.jpg

Edited by hutch08

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Did a little more investigation this evening, the wheel literally has to be completely locked for the tires to contact the UCA. They weren't even touching the sway bar, but I'm assuming going over a bump or out of the driveway will cause that little extra flex to make contact.

Here's a few pics with the wheel completely cranked to the left.

You can see the UCA actually contacting the sidewall:
20150208_175303_zpsqqo4kcbs.jpg

Passenger side still has a little clearance to the sway bar:
20150208_175032_zps5mscmzud.jpg

It's not overly clear, but you can see that there's only 1/8" gap between the steering stop on the Knuckle/LCA:
20150208_174909_zpssrzsfy5m.jpg

This is the wheel fully cranked, but then "relaxed". Has about 1/4" gap between the UCA and tire:
20150208_175318_zpsfmh0vgnn.jpg

I guess my options are to either run spacers to push the stock wheels out a little, get new wheels with less positive offset, narrower tires, somehow add material so the LCA contacts the knuckle sooner, or just live with it.

I don't really like the idea of 'slip-on" wheel spacers and I don't know if even the 1/4" RC sells would be enough. Definitely not getting new tires, and I like these factory wheels. I may try to come up with a way to make the steering stop contact sooner, but I'll have to look more into that. Worse case, I just get used to not cranking the wheel backing out of the driveway and in parking lots haha.

Edited by hutch08

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Anyone know if the 0.5" spacers from Ready Lift will work with the factory studs?

I like the idea that they're hub-centric and the 0.5" should be enough to push the tires away from the UCA.
15-3485_readylift_wheel_spacers.jpg
15-3485-2-lrg.jpg





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hutch08,

 

Yes, the Denali wheel shown in your thread above is the wheel my truck came with and they are 20x9 "0" offset. Only slight rub on sway bar at full-lock when running the Toyo Open Country eXtreme AT 295/55/R20 tires which I run in spring/summer. I run studded Hankooks during winter months here in Alaska.

Edited by Rewillia

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Anyone know if the 0.5" spacers from Ready Lift will work with the factory studs?

 

 

 

 

 

 

I for one know little to nothing about using wheel spacers but I'd be concerned about available stud length and would do some research before using them.

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I'm interest in this because I will be going with the 2-1/2" RC with 275/6520 duratracs on AT wheels

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Anyone know if the 0.5" spacers from Ready Lift will work with the factory studs?

I like the idea that they're hub-centric and the 0.5" should be enough to push the tires away from the UCA.15-3485_readylift_wheel_spacers.jpg15-3485-2-lrg.jpg

 

 

I was having issues with offset when I was putting some new rims/tires on my grand cherokee. I mentioned spacers as an option to the shop that does all my work. They guy who I trust with my vehicles advised me that spacers are okay on cars, but he would never use them on something like a truck. There is just no way they are as strong as a properly offset wheel.

The stud length would be another concern of mine. Removing 1/2" of threads wouldn't seem right.

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