Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I did pads at 40k in the front with Wagner OEX, they sucked. I need four corners at 85k anyone used PowerStop?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, Perseus said:

I did pads at 40k in the front with Wagner OEX, they sucked. I need four corners at 85k anyone used PowerStop?

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

I installed a powerstop Oem kit on my wife’s vehicle without any issues. Been on there for over two years without any issues or squeaking. Probably have 20,000 miles on them right now, still look new.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took my '15 in for service around 50K, and they said that I needed to change the right front pads.  I told them that I would do that myself, they wanted about $200+ to do it.  Got new pads and my son and I changed them.  A few weeks later, she got totaled.  :(

 

5af378b22240d_FrontRightBrakePads.thumb.jpeg.35275b628efd014ca34f7d0ef6a03c5f.jpeg

Outboard is the lower one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I’ve had pretty good luck with these. To my foot, they’re better than stock by a decent margin. I don’t remember what I paid for them, but it was not too expensive. Warranty-Three years on the rotors and lifetime on the pads.  I’ve got about twelve thousand on them and they aren’t showing much wear at all.

D9A22130-759D-4DC0-8070-44E8B122CC47.jpeg

Plus- now they call me... NASCAR.  

Edited by Darksky
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, Darksky said:

I’ve had pretty good luck with these. To my foot, they’re better than stock by a decent margin. I don’t remember what I paid for them, but it was not too expensive. Warranty-Three years on the rotors and lifetime on the pads.  I’ve got about twelve thousand on them and they aren’t showing much wear at all.

D9A22130-759D-4DC0-8070-44E8B122CC47.jpeg

Plus- now they call me... NASCAR.  

That's the same ones that I used, back in May, when I changed mine out, on my '15.  Can't really say that I got my moneys worth out of them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/17/2019 at 5:29 AM, Darksky said:

I’ve had pretty good luck with these. To my foot, they’re better than stock by a decent margin. I don’t remember what I paid for them, but it was not too expensive. Warranty-Three years on the rotors and lifetime on the pads.  I’ve got about twelve thousand on them and they aren’t showing much wear at all.

D9A22130-759D-4DC0-8070-44E8B122CC47.jpeg

Plus- now they call me... NASCAR.  

Looking good there NASCAR!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I cannot vouch for Duralast brakes or rotors for a GM truck, but did install the Gold pads on my wife's Altima and my daily driver Taurus.

They have been great. None if very little dust. No noise and grab more than the Oem pads.

The Max Pads are a step up from Gold.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just put a set of CarQuest Wearever Platinum Pro rotors and pads on the front of my wife's car...only cost $116 after a coupon code from advance plus got a $20 rebate to boot. Only got about 1500 mi. on them but no dust and seem pretty solid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't done anything to the K2's except UBJ's on the 2014. We just did the first set of pads on the 2013 2500HD with 200,000km (125k miles) on it. I am very impressed with these GMT900's wear parts. This is a bush truck and does NOT have an easy life at all, 40% off-road. 

 

The wife's Canyon needed wheel bearings at 50,000 miles which was pretty discouraging considering the truck never leaves pavement. 

 

My personal 6.2L is on its second trans at 15,000miles but no wear parts. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Duralast has upgraded(?) products again to a GT line that’s supposedly above the MAX line. I stopped in to pick up a set of the ones I pictured on warranty exchange and the salesman offered to upgrade them at no cost. The rotors are slotted, the pads haven’t arrived. When they do, I will post pictures. 

 

Does anyone one have any experience with this new GT line from DuraLast?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

At 90k miles with original oem pads, thought they needed changing once, but they were fine. Definitely replacing with oem pads when the time comes though

Edited by awright2009

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
At 90k miles with original oem pads, thought they needed changing once, but they were fine. Definitely replacing with oem pads when the time comes though

I take it you don't have too many hills where you are. I'm looking at my third set of fronts soon at 60k miles. . 

 

Sent from my Moto Z2 Play using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Need to replace my front pads soon. Especially with RV season soon upon us. Unsure which pads I'll go with just yet. Rotors are still good. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By jkrosky
      I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 3500 HD High Country with 6.6 diesel equipped with tow package.  It has dedicated trailer brake and trailer fuses within the primary fuse box under the hood.  My passenger side trailer blinkers and brake lights are not working.  I've traced the lack of 12v power all the way up to the 10a fuse dedicated to the right side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #17).  I have replaced the fuse, re-tested, and still no power.  The left side trailer brake/signal light (fuse #14) has 12v power going to it, tested on the top of the fuse when the flashers are on, but the right side has nothing.  I've also swapped and then replaced the trailer parking lights relay switch (relay #63) and still nothing.  Is this most likely an issue with fuse box or something else supplying power or ground to the fuse box?  Thanks for the help... this is the craziest thing.
    • By dwchapmanjr
      2015 GMC Yukon Denali - 32k miles (6.2L + 8spd).  I don't normally do highway speed but noticed yesterday that I had a slight pedal vibration when doing so and it only seems to happen at 60+ mph.  My daily drive is under 40mph and no vibrations there.  I'm assuming its likely a rear rotor since I don't feel it in the steering wheel.
       
      I looked back on my records and it appears front brakes were at 7mm a year ago and rear at 4mm.  Both in the "green" according to dealer.  I'm not sure if its an eyeball check and they just mark good or if they actually measure but it was 10k miles ago and a year so I likely need new pads.
       

       
      All this to say, with this life and mileage is anyone seeing pad life and possibly rotor life exhausted so quickly?  This is a heavy vehicle and the 6.2L gets it up to speed quickly and it does seem to take a lot more to stop it(always this way so I don't think its the vacuum recall).
       
      If anyone is getting a 4 wheel brake job at the dealer, what has it run you?  Mine is running a special for $139 per axle for pads and $189 per axle for rotors but I'm hoping if it is a warped rotor I only need 1 pair.
       
      Also noticed this on the front passenger rotor.  Is that defined of a groove normal?  To the touch it doesn't feel grooved.
       

       
      Tire inflation is normal.
    • By CraCra
      2006 GMC Savana 4.8 L 2500.
      Failed braking system, power steering pump. My Power steering pump went out along with braking. originally diagnosed as a combo hydroboost/power steer problem, so a new hydro boost was installed. Also replaced master cylinder and replaced 4 power steering pumps, the last one was an AC Delco which has lasted the longest, 3 days. One of the problems has been pedal kickback which is still going on. Was thinking it was the wheel sensors so I disconnected the ABS but still have a slight problem with pedal kickback not as bad as it was before, but still have it.
      Any ideas?
    • By GerryLittle20
      I don't know much about vehicles, or forums at that. I know enough obviously to have looked up & changed out the shift column mechanism. Now for some reason when Im at slow speeds my brakes are wanting to lock up? Could this have something to do with something not being plugged back in right or? Im lost on this one. 
    • By Ed10000
      My 2018 GMC Sierra SLT with e-Assist stutters intermittently when cold and backing up with foot applying lite pressure to the brake. It also does this at times when going forward. It has 14K miles but it has done this since about 3K miles. I finally took it in for diagnosis today. They were able to reproduce the problem.  They scratched their heads for a while before concluding that the brake pads and rotors were glazed.  This seems unlikely and I would appreciate learning if others have experienced this problem and how it was resolved. I am thinking it’s a problem with the e-assist trying to decide to stop the engine or not.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    208,490
    Total Topics
    2,232,807
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    177,944
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Carl Oliver
    Newest Member
    Carl Oliver
    Joined
  • Who's Online   84 Members, 1 Anonymous, 692 Guests (See full list)

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.