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I have had a problem with my remote keyless entry system on my 2001 Chevy Silverado for at least a year now. I have not been able to unlock or lock my vehicle from any distance, rarely only within a few feet, and even then it is intermittent. I bought the correct replacement key fob, and through several long attempts I was able to program it to my truck, and it has the same problems as the original key fob, which I did try to re-program as well. I am quite certain the problem is due to the wireless receiver in the truck, however I find limited and varying information on where it is located to diagnose or replace it. I went to a Chevrolet dealer earlier and was told it would cost $150 for them to just look at it. I am capable of doing many repairs myself and would like to know if anyone could help find where the malfunctioning component is, or if there are any other tests of some sort that would help me. Thanks.
I recently installed the upgraded digital dash in our LTZ that did not have it thanks to White Automotive and Media Services. The process turned out to be quite a bit more daunting than I had expected. I had found a few posts (here and another better start here) that talked about upgrading the gauge cluster, however I could not find any specific step by step instructions to gain access.
Here's the obligatory "After" photo showing our new gauge cluster!
With plenty of reasons for everyone to access the radio, center console, and gauge cluster, I thought a step by step tutorial would make the project immensely easier for anyone willing to do it. And trust me, If I can do it, you can do it.
This "How To" is a work in progress I just wanted to get it out the before it's fully complete for anyone who wants to do this or has been struggling with how to get the specific trim pieces that are required off.
I plan to do this entire process again in the near future so I can create a video showing this process and take additional photographs to fill in what I missed the first time.
LAST UPDATE: Feb 21st, 2020
7mm socket with 6 inch extension & ⅜ ratchet , plastic interior trim removal tools, T15 Torx bit
Plastic Interior Trim Removal Tools are absolutely necessary. Using metal tools or screw drivers will 100% damage your interior!
We used this kit from Amazon that costs around $16. <------ This is not a referral link. Just being helpful and showing as an example.
Prepare by cleaning out center console, cup holders, charging area, side console storage areas, and by moving the front driver/passenger seats backwards.
Using towels, create a soft area to store interior pieces during work
Pry infotainment decorative chrome/painted trim away, starting at the bottom around the HVAC vents on each side, then the top.
Remove square access cover directly next to the accelerator pedal. Remove the 7mm screw under the decorative cover.
Place fingers in drivers side footwell console storage area and use moderate force to pull the side of the center console away. You do not have the totally remove the panel. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose towards the top and front of the panel. Do the same on the passenger side, however there is no screw to remove before the panel will snap out. There are approximately 8 clips to pull loose. You do not have to totally remove the panel. With the center console lid open, use a pry tool to pop the clips holding the top of the center console area to the center console assembly. Pull up and disconnect approximately 10 clips around the cup holders, charging pad and/or storage pad area and up to directly below the radio/climate controls. Do not yank the trim too far away, there are wires connected to the bottom of this trim piece. Gently position the tray as far rearward as possible without removing the wires, or gently remove the wire connectors and place the console on your soft area. Using a pry tool, remove the thin, curved piece of trim directly under the USB/12V/120V Trailer Brake Controls. There are five clips to remove, each releasing directly towards the rear of the vehicle, parallel to the floor of the vehicle. Release two clips on each side then pull gently to remove the center clip.
Positi on console tray (if still attached) to remove two T15 screws at bottom of infotainment/climate control unit. Unscrew top four T15 screws holding infotainment/climate control in place at top of unit. Using pry bar, pull infotainment unit away, releasing approximately 8 clips around the unit. Use caution, HVAC ducting will come out with the unit, so only pull directly out. Disconnect Unit or lean out to continue on for access to gauge cluster.
Using a plastic pry tool, release the leather infotainment trim, but only along the side of the cluster. Using a plastic pry tool, remove the leather gauge cluster hood. The approximately 6 clips are released pulling straight up. Remove the fuse access panel on the driver’s side door opening. Using a T15 bit, remove the two screws holding the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit in place. Using a pry tool, pull the Light Control / 4X4 Switch unit directly away from the dash. There are approximately 8 clips holding it in place.
Unscrew three 7mm screws holding the front cluster trim piece in place. Using your hands, pry the cluster trim piece away from behind the steering wheel, including the trim piece on the top of the steering wheel column that is attached.
Remove four 7mm screws holding gauge cluster in place.
For 2019 trucks, slide red locking tab and lift cam lock to remove cluster harness.
Reverse steps to reassemble.
Please comment with any suggestions, edits, or comments. I'd like this to be as helpful as possible.
My name is matt.
I was checking into replacing my 2014 2500hd ltz seats with newer ones and was told the 1500 seats will not work in a 2500 or 3500. I am not referring to the trim package or feature. Obviously I am looking for the features i have already just want newer leather.
Does anyone know what's the difference in the seat ? Or know if they will work?
By Big Robs
I keep hearing an interior rear cabin rattle noise when hitting bumps or rough roads. Sounds like it is coming from the interior rear cabin wall were the rear mirror is located. Has anyone experienced this issue? The second rattle noise is coming from the driver side seat belt pillar or door. The rattle noise almost sounds like plastic hitting plastic. Any ideas or has anyone experienced this?
By Mark Williard
I have an 04 Chevy Silverado. Rear doors will not unlock with key fob or the lock button, but will lock if I manually unlock them. Does anybody have any idea what may have happened and how to fix this? It is a true inconvenience when your trying to put something on the back seat and have to open the front door to reach back to unlock the rear door. Thanks
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