Can my truck tow it? Second set of eyes needed.

[jvbronco]

Looking for some assistance. Buying a travel trailer early next year and trying to figure out if I'll be able to / want to pull it with my current truck. I commute 70+ miles per day for work and would prefer to stick with a half ton, but will go bigger if safety dictates it.

 

Below is the info on the trailer and truck. I've looked at all the towing calculators and from what I can tell, I'm cutting it pretty close on payload, given 10-13% hitch weight.

 

Any help, second set of eyes on the numbers is appreciated!

 

Thanks!

 

 

Trailer Specs:

• GVWR (wet weight): 7840 (includes water, propane, and 1444 cargo capacity)
• Unloaded weight (dry weight): 5880
• 26ft

Truck:

• 2014 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
• 5.3l V8
• 3.42 Axle
• Max Trailer Weight - 9600
• Gcwr: 15000

Truck specs from door jam:

• Gvwr: 7200
• Gvw/ Sticker weight: 5201
• Payload: 1974
• Fgawr: 3950
• Rgwar: 3950

[ember1205]

Make sure you have a trailer brake controller (if you don't have the integrated one) and get a QUALITY hitch to carry the weight. Look into a Weight Distributing Hitch and possibly an Anti-Sway system as part of it. If you had the 3.08 rear end, I would say you would have some struggles, but the 3.42 will do fine for you with that setup.

[Blue2500CC]

Not knowing the exact model trailer you are looking at, or the "brochure dry" tw, but with almost 2k lbs payload per the yellow sticker, I would believe you would be ok pending a few things!

 

TW % is usually more like 12-15% for a tt (travel trailer). Not a lot will tow ok with only 10%. BUT... 15% of 7800lbs (IF you loaded it up!!!) is only 1,170lbs, leaving 800lbs for the passangers and cargo. So unless you load the bed with a half cord of wood, you should be ok.

 

Invest in a good wdh (weight distribution hitch) with integrated sway control. Reese Dual Cam, Reese SC (very similar to the Equal-I-Zer 4 way), or the Equal-I-Zer 4 way systems are very good. A few other newer system, Blue Ox, Husky Centerline to name a couple. The Blue Ox has a growing folling, but not relly sure exactly how it controls sway with the design. The CL (top model), reports are you need to be in almost a straight line when hitching/unhitching. The Anderson wdh probably won't be able to transfer enough weight back to the front axle with that trailer. The Recurve R6 that Rosco recently went with is interesting also. Just do your homework before buying. And just because a dealer does not carry a certain brand, Etrailer as well as other online deaalers ship right to your door!!! Over on RV.net in the towing section ( I think it is) is a thread on how to set up a wdh. A lot of very good info! Suggest reading it a few times before you buy. Even if the dealer sets the hitch up, the tt is empty so once the tt is loaded you will probably have to adjuct the hitch some.

 

Prodigy P2 or P3 is a very good brake controller if yo don't have the factory controller.

 

Only other thing to consider is the possibility of needing LT tires. Sometimes when towing with a little higher tw you can get a "wiggle" in the P rated tires fromt he sidewall flexing.

[jvbronco]

Make sure you have a trailer brake controller (if you don't have the integrated one) and get a QUALITY hitch to carry the weight. Look into a Weight Distributing Hitch and possibly an Anti-Sway system as part of it. If you had the 3.08 rear end, I would say you would have some struggles, but the 3.42 will do fine for you with that setup.

Thanks - I do have the integrated brake controller. Not sure of the model, but it will come with a quality WDH with sway control.

Edited September 19, 2015 by jvbronco

[ember1205]

 

TW % is usually more like 12-15% for a tt (travel trailer). Not a lot will tow ok with only 10%. BUT... 15% of 7800lbs (IF you loaded it up!!!) is only 1,170lbs, leaving 800lbs for the passangers and cargo. So unless you load the bed with a half cord of wood, you should be ok.

 

 

 

As an FYI: A half cord of seasoned hardwood is closer to double that weight as many hardwoods run 2500-3000 lbs per cord, seasoned.

 

[jvbronco]

Not knowing the exact model trailer you are looking at, or the "brochure dry" tw, but with almost 2k lbs payload per the yellow sticker, I would believe you would be ok pending a few things!

 

TW % is usually more like 12-15% for a tt (travel trailer). Not a lot will tow ok with only 10%. BUT... 15% of 7800lbs (IF you loaded it up!!!) is only 1,170lbs, leaving 800lbs for the passangers and cargo. So unless you load the bed with a half cord of wood, you should be ok.

 

Invest in a good wdh (weight distribution hitch) with integrated sway control. Reese Dual Cam, Reese SC (very similar to the Equal-I-Zer 4 way), or the Equal-I-Zer 4 way systems are very good. A few other newer system, Blue Ox, Husky Centerline to name a couple. The Blue Ox has a growing folling, but not relly sure exactly how it controls sway with the design. The CL (top model), reports are you need to be in almost a straight line when hitching/unhitching. The Anderson wdh probably won't be able to transfer enough weight back to the front axle with that trailer. The Recurve R6 that Rosco recently went with is interesting also. Just do your homework before buying. And just because a dealer does not carry a certain brand, Etrailer as well as other online deaalers ship right to your door!!! Over on RV.net in the towing section ( I think it is) is a thread on how to set up a wdh. A lot of very good info! Suggest reading it a few times before you buy. Even if the dealer sets the hitch up, the tt is empty so once the tt is loaded you will probably have to adjuct the hitch some.

 

Prodigy P2 or P3 is a very good brake controller if yo don't have the factory controller.

 

Only other thing to consider is the possibility of needing LT tires. Sometimes when towing with a little higher tw you can get a "wiggle" in the P rated tires fromt he sidewall flexing.

 

Good info - thanks!

 

The trailer weights are from the sticker on the inside cabinet of the trailer itself. Would beed to weigh it to be positive. I'm going to look into tires as well. Thanks for the great info, guys!

[Blue2500CC]

As an FYI: A half cord of seasoned hardwood is closer to double that weight as many hardwoods run 2500-3000 lbs per cord, seasoned.

I know wood is heavy, was just making a slightly exaggerate example.

 

Heck, the rubbermaid totes I put wood in sometimes (roughly 42"x20"x20") weigh 150lb each give or take. Helps keep the bed a little cleaner, but they are very bulky sizewise!!!

[ember1205]

Thanks - I do have the integrated brake controller. Not sure of the model, but it will come with a quality WDH with sway control.

 

Don't let them include the WDH / Sway Control unless it's what you actually want. Read up on the different ones that are out there and be sure to get one that's rated to redistribute the amount of tongue weight that you need for your setup. Just because the TT store is packaging it in the deal doesn't mean it's the right one or the best one for the money.

[Blue2500CC]

Mod- Please delete this post, Ipad issue!

 

TY!

Edited September 19, 2015 by Blue2500CC

[jvbronco]

 

Don't let them include the WDH / Sway Control unless it's what you actually want. Read up on the different ones that are out there and be sure to get one that's rated to redistribute the amount of tongue weight that you need for your setup. Just because the TT store is packaging it in the deal doesn't mean it's the right one or the best one for the money.

 

I'm buying the trailer from my grandpa, who picked up a quality setup about 10 years ago when he bought the trailer. He's had good luck towing it with his 2001 2500 Duramax. I'll have to figure out what the hitch is an go from there. Thanks again for the info - much appreciated!

[ember1205]

 

I'm buying the trailer from my grandpa, who picked up a quality setup about 10 years ago when he bought the trailer. He's had good luck towing it with his 2001 2500 Duramax. I'll have to figure out what the hitch is an go from there. Thanks again for the info - much appreciated!

 

Ah... Gotcha.

 

Definitely find out what the WDH is and what its configuration is capable of redistributing for weight. His truck may have been able to carry more tongue weight than yours, and you may need to adjust the hitch, change out the arms, or it might not work for you at all if it can't redistribute enough of the weight.

 

Good luck with it!

[jvbronco]

 

Ah... Gotcha.

 

Definitely find out what the WDH is and what its configuration is capable of redistributing for weight. His truck may have been able to carry more tongue weight than yours, and you may need to adjust the hitch, change out the arms, or it might not work for you at all if it can't redistribute enough of the weight.

 

Good luck with it!

I will - thanks again for the recommendations!

[jvbronco]

Another question - I'll be taking the trailer through the rockies a time or two per year. Will this setup do the job in the mountains? I've pulled the same trailer with the duramax a ton of times and it does well. I'm just nervous that the half ton will be noticeably worse.

[Blue2500CC]

The average camper adds about 1k lbs to the trailer, so if you estimate having a 7k lb trailer depending on how you load it, should be a good start. As long as you are not afraid to let the motor rev some (abover 3k if needed), I would think your truck will do fine! Just take your time!!!

 

On a slight side not: What year is the tt, and how old are the tires??? Trailer tires can have a lifespan of as little as 3-5yrs before they need to be replaced! The bearings may need to be repacked also!!!

 

Also check all the rubber propane hoses for leaks.

[ember1205]

The average camper adds about 1k lbs to the trailer, so if you estimate having a 7k lb trailer depending on how you load it, should be a good start. As long as you are not afraid to let the motor rev some (abover 3k if needed), I would think your truck will do fine! Just take your time!!!

 

On a slight side not: What year is the tt, and how old are the tires??? Trailer tires can have a lifespan of as little as 3-5yrs before they need to be replaced! The bearings may need to be repacked also!!!

 

Also check all the rubber propane hoses for leaks.

 

Good points here... Trailer tires are typical bias ply and don't "sit" well. If they were covered to keep UV off of them, the lifespan would potentially be longer. If you DO need to replace the tires, consider putting on radials.