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1998 GMC k1500 5.7l no start


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I have a 98 gmc with a 5.7l, it just cranks and it wont start. I already replaced the inectors, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, all new plugs, distributor, coil, coolant temp sensor, and the throttle position sensor. It has good spark and its getting fuel but it wont start. I need some help before i blow the thing up.

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How many miles on it? How did you determine that it is getting fuel? Are the spark plugs wet when you pull them out after an extended cranking time? If they are then that's a sign that fuel is getting into the cylinders, but you will need to install fresh dry plugs to get them to fire. Wet plugs usually short down the side of the porcelain and do not create a good spark. If you have fuel and spark, then all you need is air. Have you done a compression test?

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It has 162,000 as far as i know. But whats killing me is that i drove it home and it ran great and i parked it for a week and hasnt started since. I pulled the injectors and cranked it while they where out and they all were spraying. The old plugs were wet and smelled like fuel and i put in all new plugs. Havent done a compression test though. I also have the code p1351 saying that my ignition has high voltage and that only popped up after the new distributor. So would that be it?

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It looks to me like that code is referring to coil #1. Read this: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0351

 

That was a good way to verify that fuel is coming out of the injectors. Did you check the pressure or was it a strong mist/spray looking pattern?

 

That code looks like it only refers to one cylinder not firing. If only one isn't firing the engine would try to start and might be able to and just run rough. Do you have any cylinders firing?

 

162K miles isn't a lot but you need to be sure that you have good compression.

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i just got my grandpas truck and it wasnt wanting to start either. we used starter fluid and got it to start but it was running rough. i got an O2 sensor code and replaced it (first one on passenger side). it still ran rough but could tell it was better. i cleaned out the egr valve by driving it and and all and now she runs great. check your egr valve. just a suggestion hope it helps

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Seems these years have some kind of electrical gremlin that shows up from time to time with the distributor cap as I've read of this problem elsewhere, it's a random here and there won't start issue after it ran just fine the day before. My 98 Yukon will do the same thing, mostly when it's very humid out but especially so when it's both humid and after it has rained. The day before ran like a champ, come out in the morning and it cranks and kind of fires and sputters off order a little but won't start. Odd thing is everything under the hood is bone dry, nothing at all is ever wet. The best I have been able to come up with is moisture is somehow getting inside under the distributor cap (the cap hold down on these is crap!). So, what I've ended up doing is dragging out one of my old hand held hair dryers I use in the shop, plug it in, point it at the distributor cap (no need to remove the cap just point the hair dryer at it), and within about 5 - 10 minutes it starts every time. I've had the cap off, looked it over to see if there's anything I can do to prevent the problem and have no idea how the moisture gets in there, but apparently it does as every time I've used the hair dryer trick it starts every time. Problem is, when the damn thing does it away from home, then you're kind of screwed, so far luckily that hasn't happened to me yet, only done it in the driveway so far.

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  • 3 months later...

willjoe99 did you ever end up getting it figured out? im having the same issue except mine trys to run backwards mostly when you stop trying to crank it over so its like the timing is advanced far but the distributor lines up with the cylinders and such

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