Its been awhile since I've put up an update post on what I have done to my truck in the past few months. So here is the list....
-RC 2 inch leveling kit
-Carven performance exhaust ( Competition muffler )
-Aftermarket taillights ( returning soon as they already have issues )
-future planned taillights are morimoto's
-Black bowtie swap front and rear
-I may get aftermarket headlights in the future if prices go down.
-Custom HD towing mirrors ( The front LED turn signals are sequential )
-20 inch light bar mounted onto a license plate bracket mount
-20x10 -25 offset dropstar 655bm
-33x12.5 toyo open country RT's
-Front end air dam removal with trimming for tires
-LED turn signal bulbs
All these mods were done myself except for the tow mirrors since i had them done at my Chevy dealer so that i made sure everything worked properly and was warrantied for the wiring harness.
Please give me your thoughts and opinions on my build and give me any pointers o what i should do next to the truck. I'm thinking about getting a cold air inductions CAI next.
1998 suburban 1500 4x4 5.7 4l60e np246 push button 4x4 2/4hi/4lo/auto
I need some help here. Suddenly my 4x4 quit working on my truck, details above. I have diagnosed everything I can. There are no codes or lights.
The issue is no power to the front wheels while in any of the 4x4 positions. The front axle actuator is working, checked with a new one. The encoder motor is new, just installed oem motor.
When the truck is on stands the front wheels roll in 4x4 but on the ground they have no torque. I put the front on the ground and jacked up the rear axle, the rear tires spin in drive, the fronts have no pull what so ever.
With the truck in the air, 4x4 hi engaged, engine off, truck in neutral, I can roll the front drive shaft by hand and see movement in the rear shaft. Again, when it's in the air everything works, only on the ground it acts like it's still in 2wd.
Does the 246 have slipping issues? Is that even possible? I've never had one apart but if there's discs to engage them possibly they are worn?
My next step is a xfer case but I don't want to throw any more money away.
I should mention I have this problem in auto mode too.
I have a 2016 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 SLT, 39K miles; recently I have been hearing a clicking/popping noise coming from the front right wheel well. I took it to the dealership to get it looked at, and they come back to tell me my shocks are bad, which it not what I expected to hear. They quoted me $1.1K to install new shocks, does that sound right to y'all? It sounded a bit absurd to me. Of course now I am on youtube trying to figure out if I can do this myself.
How hard would it be - for someone who hasn't done much other change the oil myself and maybe change a belt here and there - to change my front shocks by myself? Or should I just pay someone to do it?
By Micah johnson
So when the truck was newer I used 4x4 a few times and it would make almost a metallic grinding noise when turning. I took it into the dealership multiple times trying to get a fix and they kept saying there was no fix. So be it. It works still even with the noise. This truck was always maintained by the dealership until 80k miles. At 72kmiles the check engine light came on almost out of no where and I took it to the dealership to find out the injectors were bad! What the heck! Then andother 8k later the rear differential started leaking oil and I had to replace that. That was fun 4K into a 2015 truck in the same year in repairs that shouldn’t have happened that early in the trucks life. Thennnnnnnnn at 104k the transmission went out!!!! What in the heck! All of these repairs were done in a 9 month period. 10k into a 4 year old truck. I’m very disappointed in this truck. I always kept up on oil changes and most maintenance. I did not flush the transmission at 60 but that still should not have put my transmission out at 100k. I have towed about 4K max behind this truck less then 8 times for no more then a total of 200 miles so I’m not rough on the transmission. I’ve also only had it off-road 1x early on in its life so definitely not had a rough life. Almost 60% of the miles are freeway miles. These problems should not be happening to a Chevy truck. I’m really disappointed. All my ford friends have given me so much Crapp and honestly, I may as well have bought a cheaper not as well designed truck and saved myself about 10-15% on the ford truck.
Not sure if there’s any possibility of gettting any of that 10k covered from Chevy but that would really make me think a lot higher of the brand.
I think I might have an injector issue. I'll first give the symptoms and what I've done to diagnose it, but the one thing I cannot find on here or the interwebs is how to replace the fuel injectors on my L86 engine. I understand it's a GDI engine and not as simple as a port fuel injection engine, but I figured there'd be something out there...no go. I'm pretty sure I've read every thread on here about cold start/injector issues, but pardon me if I state something that's already been said. Not looking to rehash any other threads, just get thoughts on my situation and others experience with replacing these GDI injectors.
My truck is a 2016 GMC Sierra Denali, 6.2L, 8 speed, 75k miles. Only run 93 octane fuel and all routine maintenance is completed on-time or early by me. Only use top end recommended products in all maintenance.
My issue is only a cold start issue and it's intermittent, but now happening more frequently. It drives fine with full-power and has no other issues. The cold start issue first came up around 70k miles when I did an auto-start in my driveway. I could hear the truck struggling to keep rpm's, it sounded like it was barely chugging along. I opened the door and looked at the rpm's and they were bouncing like crazy. Truck stalled out and threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire (P0303). I cleared it and it started up perfectly. I chalked it up to it needing spark plugs/wires replaced (had original OEM still in). I did so the next weekend with the OEM ACDELCO iridium plugs and Taylor 10MM racing wires (much better than stock). She cold started flawlessly for the next 5k miles and the issue was long gone in my mind. Fast forward about 3 weeks ago when it did it again after sitting in my work parking lot all day. The code this time was P0106 (MAP Pressure Sensor reading issue). I installed a CAI system (aFe Power Momentum GT) around 72k miles, so I figured maybe I accidentally messed up the MAF sensor in the install (even though it was fine for 3k miles). So I replaced the MAF sensor. Was fine until a week ago, when it had another rough cold start but didn't throw a code. I assumed it was the P0106 code again so I replaced the MAP sensor this time. Good for another week and now it's had 2 rough starts this week and stalled once right after starting, so getting progressively worse. This time it threw the P0303 code again.
I happen to be borrowing a tech tool and did a diagnostics check on the cylinders and it showed cylinder 3 has had 699 misfires, the next highest was 19 (both cylinders 6 and 8). I also checked the code history on the ECM and it showed P0106 (map sensor pressure fault), P0300 (multiple misfires), and P050D (cold start rough idle). I read the cold start rough idle can also mean coolant is leaking into the oil and/or through the head. I have not noticed my coolant running low, regardless I change my oil and just did it as recently as last weekend, but it's never looked milky or smelled like coolant. I also checked all the head bolts and around the head gaskets - didn't see any coolant.
Ruling everything out to this point, all I'm left with is bad seals on injector 3 that's allowing leak back during initial engine start - causing the misfires on cylinder 3. What's strange is that about 20 seconds after start-up the idle evens out and drives smoothly the entire time. It's only a rough cold start intermittently (getting more frequent), but no other issues. Am I missing anything?
How-to on replacing GDI fuel injectors?
I've read how costly it is for a shop to change out these GDI fuel injectors so I was hoping to do this on my own. I do 90% of my repairs/maintenance - with exceptions to major work. This is the first GDI engine I've owned so I don't want to jump into something and cause more damage - but I feel confident I can learn and do it right.
Are there any instructions/how-to's on doing this job? From what I understand, with a GDI engine the pressure is much greater in the fuel lines so it's important to properly relieve the pressure. Also, I've read that I may need to replace the fuel injector rails/lines when I replace any injectors due to the stainless steel being so soft that it will leak in no time after replacing only the injectors. I don't mind spending money on the right tools if it'll save me money in the long run. Thoughts on doing the job myself? PS - I've searched YouTube and Google for ANY instructions (even for other GDI engines) and have found nothing on how to bleed the fuel pressure, just videos about putting on new injector gaskets.
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