Cold Air Intake for 2015 GM 1500 6.2L

[crushNchowda]

Headers are also $1500 + install + tune and not all that warranty-friendly

 

They also don't last as long as stock exhaust manifolds, you get to chase down header leaks and melting shit in your engine compartment. Big power gains for sure but they are not for everyone.

They last just as long if you don't use crappy chinese knockoffs or cheap american stuff (like pacesetter - using mild steel for headers bahahhahah) - 304 stainless will outlast the truck, ceramic coating will run COOLER than the stock cast iron.

 

At any rate - tune and/or headers are what will give you a tangible upgrade in power, that and gear swap, before we start talking about cams/and forced induction.

 

CAI alone will do next to nothing other than generate more engine noise. CAI and a custom tune will equate to 15-25whp depending on how friendly the dyno us....custom tune and stock intake my guess is damn near identical gains....the over the radiator ram air style intakes on performance cars (Callaway honker, vararam, etc) - now THOSE are "real" CAI's and those WILL result in increased power.

 

To the OP - I have had headers on a number of GM vehicles and while its tough to say headers = X power gain as its more a cumulative effect and the tuner's ability as well, I would say headers will net anywhere from 15-40whp depending on application.

 

As far as the efficacy of the "cold air intakes" sold for these trucks - I'll put a real simple question out there, has ANYONE ever thrown codes installing one of these K&N or Airaid intakes? If not (and I know the answer is NO) then they aint doing squat.

 

Put a callaway honker or vararam on a corvette and you'll throw codes immediately and NEED a tune, why? Because there's that much more air being introduced its too much for the factory ECM to compensate ie: THEY WORK.

 

Before you dump $250-$300 on a bogus CAI setup, spend $150-$200 more and get it tuned. That will give you noticeable gains, add headers and now we're really talkin...

[cubangt]

So the K&N CAI for the 1500 is just as good or the same as the factory setup?

[Higgs Boson]

you don't need to throw a code to validate an airflow increase. that's the most lol ever.

 

to throw a code from an airflow increase, you would need a supercharger. if an intake is throwing a code it's because it was poorly engineered and they screwed up MAF placement.

[redwngr]

So the K&N CAI for the 1500 is just as good or the same as the factory setup?

K&N is good if you want to digest a lot of dirt.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

[Silver ice 6.2]

We are all here to give ideas,suggestions,feedback,and help someone who's seeks it.. here my .02.... this cai thing has been along for along time.. some people cut corners. Some people do reasearch, or some people just don't want to spend the money. Me personally I bought the afe dry flow closed box.. I love the looks, fitment, and sound. Did I gain hp. I don't know. I'll just say maybe. It's your truck your money do what you want!!!

[crushNchowda]

you don't need to throw a code to validate an airflow increase. that's the most lol ever.

 

to throw a code from an airflow increase, you would need a supercharger. if an intake is throwing a code it's because it was poorly engineered and they screwed up MAF placement.

It's fairly common for those that install these intakes that actually work (halltech, callaway, slp blackwing, vararam) to cause the car to run much leaner than normal, more so than you would w/ stock intake or a "cone" style- and the computer can't compensate enough. What you're describing is an issue when unmetered air makes its way past the mass air sensor and goes undetected throwing different codes- I'm well aware of it. 2 different things, and even so- air getting past the MAF isn't necessarily due to install error or loose clamps- can be caused simply from the sheer increase in velocity the intake creates, which is why some offer additional pieces that help smooth/direct airflow even further.

 

I maintain that the filter in a box (with or without some holes punched in it) or open air cone style is not going to do much for these trucks performance wise other than increase engine noise. Sure- on a dyno, after/during tuning session, w/ the hood open, and a damn fan blasting on the friggin intake you may see a pickup of 7-10hp

 

In reality, you're not gonna feel it on the road and I maintain that all things being equal money is better spent from a performance standpoint (that is why you'd wanna blow $300 on a CAI right? because otherwise I will LoL @ mpg increase) putting it toward a tune and headers. Not saying nobody should get a CAI- they look good under the hood, they create better sounding engine note, and -when used in conjunction w/ headers and a tune- they can help add power.

 

I'm just trying to give an honest opinion from plenty of personal experience modifying cars/trucks that if performance is what you're after, and your money matters to you, bang for the buck is always going to be custom tune first and foremost, or tune/headers if you got the $$, or ideally tune/headers/intake- but I know for a FACT you could spend $300 on an intake and install it that day and drive away w/ a little more engine noise in the cabin and potentially some placebo effect seeping into your brain that you can "feel the power"

 

Or you can spend a little bit more- maybe $350-500 depending in tuner/area, get a custom tune, get a legit increase in mileage, and drive away thinking "hot damn that was money well spent I can't believe how this truck drives it's night and day"

 

If you're going to try and argue against that you're either lying or have no experience driving a GM vehicle (particularly an auto tranny GM vehicle) that has been tuned by a good shop.

[Bvonscott]

K&N is good if you want to digest a lot of dirt.

 

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/kn-vs-oem-filter.html

 

This test was done on the filter itself, and for a Diesel not a gas motor. Totally different set of rules. CAI on a diesel makes much less improvement over stock compared to a GM half ton. The air intake on a duramax is much less restrictive.

 

OP, I have the full dry filter AIRAID kit for my 6.2, not just a MIT or JR, I can tell you without a doubt that it increased the throttle response. I did not want to go the cheap route so I opted for the full system. I also have a magnaflow/electric cutout exhaust but that provides hardly any gains since the newer stock system is already free flow. Now then, other than sounding completely awesome at wide open throttle, I have no Dyno proof of an increase in HP/TQ from the AIRAID. Has there been tests done showing power improvements, YES. I believe it was Blackbear that ran the tests if I remember. But like I said, throttle response is ABSOLUTELY 100% improved.

 

To clarify, I also do not have a tune yet. The whole $$$ problem and CA emission's problem. Anyways just look at the stock box and the plenum then look at one of the CAI kits. It is quite obvious the air will flow better. That stock box is very restrictive for one reason only: keeping the trucks quiet.

[Jon A]

you don't need to throw a code to validate an airflow increase. that's the most lol ever.

 

to throw a code from an airflow increase, you would need a supercharger. if an intake is throwing a code it's because it was poorly engineered and they screwed up MAF placement.

 

 

Absolutely correct.

 

 

It's fairly common for those that install these intakes that actually work (halltech, callaway, slp blackwing, vararam) to cause the car to run much leaner than normal, more so than you would w/ stock intake or a "cone" style- and the computer can't compensate enough. What you're describing is an issue when unmetered air makes its way past the mass air sensor and goes undetected throwing different codes- I'm well aware of it. 2 different things, and even so- air getting past the MAF isn't necessarily due to install error or loose clamps- can be caused simply from the sheer increase in velocity the intake creates, which is why some offer additional pieces that help smooth/direct airflow even further.

 

The engine taking in slighly more air is not a "codeable offense." The MAF (in a well designed system) is still accurate, it detects more air and the computer adds more fuel. You make more power, no codes required.

 

The pressure drop accross your intake is actually pretty easy to measure if you have a scanner. Many of us do this. If all aftermarket intakes provided no change it would be widely known. Reducing the restriction, and thus the pressure drop, allows more airflow for a give set of conditions and will increase power.

 

A tune is needed if the difference in MAF placement throws off its calibration. This is the case with some intakes, not with others. But that's a separate issue from the reduced restriction allowing for more airflow which does create more power.

[stontr01]

 

This test was done on the filter itself, and for a Diesel not a gas motor. Totally different set of rules. CAI on a diesel makes much less improvement over stock compared to a GM half ton. The air intake on a duramax is much less restrictive.

 

OP, I have the full dry filter AIRAID kit for my 6.2, not just a MIT or JR, I can tell you without a doubt that it increased the throttle response. I did not want to go the cheap route so I opted for the full system. I also have a magnaflow/electric cutout exhaust but that provides hardly any gains since the newer stock system is already free flow. Now then, other than sounding completely awesome at wide open throttle, I have no Dyno proof of an increase in HP/TQ from the AIRAID. Has there been tests done showing power improvements, YES. I believe it was Blackbear that ran the tests if I remember. But like I said, throttle response is ABSOLUTELY 100% improved.

 

To clarify, I also do not have a tune yet. The whole $$$ problem and CA emission's problem. Anyways just look at the stock box and the plenum then look at one of the CAI kits. It is quite obvious the air will flow better. That stock box is very restrictive for one reason only: keeping the trucks quiet.

 

Thanks for the insight, it sounds like a CAI full system (AIRAID, K&N, or other reputable and proven brand) is a good "stage one upgrade", to at-least increase air flow and get a little more rumble under the hood. I say "Stage one" meaning that this would make for a good first addition to the truck to build upon later with headers, exhaust, etc down the road.

 

Have you noticed any change in MPG?

[crushNchowda]

One more thing to add to this - GM stated the all terrain/z71 package includes "less restrictive air intake" or something to that effect, requiring a larger filter?

Any truth to that?

One other thing I think worth mentioning regarding adding "CAI" To trucks....the engine compartment is HUGE relative to a car, and while its not close to the ground, there's alot of open space and empty space that would allow for water/mud/dirt to make its way up and into the engine compartment. IMO a "true" CAI for these trucks would place the filter lower and further away from the engine, which would also make it more possible to get mud/slush/water ingested into the intake - could cause big problems.

 

Obviously if you never offroad w/ the truck not as much an issue, but I think worth noting. I would be weary of putting a CAI on my truck that was fully open because of this.

[Higgs Boson]

It's fairly common for those that install these intakes that actually work (halltech, callaway, slp blackwing, vararam) to cause the car to run much leaner than normal, more so than you would w/ stock intake or a "cone" style- and the computer can't compensate enough. What you're describing is an issue when unmetered air makes its way past the mass air sensor and goes undetected throwing different codes- I'm well aware of it. 2 different things, and even so- air getting past the MAF isn't necessarily due to install error or loose clamps- can be caused simply from the sheer increase in velocity the intake creates, which is why some offer additional pieces that help smooth/direct airflow even further.

 

I maintain that the filter in a box (with or without some holes punched in it) or open air cone style is not going to do much for these trucks performance wise other than increase engine noise. Sure- on a dyno, after/during tuning session, w/ the hood open, and a damn fan blasting on the friggin intake you may see a pickup of 7-10hp

 

In reality, you're not gonna feel it on the road and I maintain that all things being equal money is better spent from a performance standpoint (that is why you'd wanna blow $300 on a CAI right? because otherwise I will LoL @ mpg increase) putting it toward a tune and headers. Not saying nobody should get a CAI- they look good under the hood, they create better sounding engine note, and -when used in conjunction w/ headers and a tune- they can help add power.

 

I'm just trying to give an honest opinion from plenty of personal experience modifying cars/trucks that if performance is what you're after, and your money matters to you, bang for the buck is always going to be custom tune first and foremost, or tune/headers if you got the $$, or ideally tune/headers/intake- but I know for a FACT you could spend $300 on an intake and install it that day and drive away w/ a little more engine noise in the cabin and potentially some placebo effect seeping into your brain that you can "feel the power"

 

Or you can spend a little bit more- maybe $350-500 depending in tuner/area, get a custom tune, get a legit increase in mileage, and drive away thinking "hot damn that was money well spent I can't believe how this truck drives it's night and day"

 

If you're going to try and argue against that you're either lying or have no experience driving a GM vehicle (particularly an auto tranny GM vehicle) that has been tuned by a good shop.

 

In many cases (around 375-400 cars now), I am the tuner and you are wrong, nothing personal, I am sure you are right about a lot of things, but not this.

 

I only tune GM products. I have only owned GM products (around 100), except for my wife's Mercedes'.....

 

This is my race car, GM:

 

 

This is my play car, GM:

 

 

 

This is my old play car, GM:

 

 

Here is my shifter kart:

 

 

 

Guess who tuned them all?

 

CEL and intakes? Give me a break.

[robvas]

One more thing to add to this - GM stated the all terrain/z71 package includes "less restrictive air intake" or something to that effect, requiring a larger filter?

 

Any truth to that?

Are you talking about K47 - High capacity air cleaner?

 

There are two different filters, go to Autozone and check it out. One is 'heavy duty' and has more material but the shape and the airbox itself are the same.

[Higgs Boson]

Are you talking about K47 - High capacity air cleaner?

 

There are two different filters, go to Autozone and check it out. One is 'heavy duty' and has more material but the shape and the airbox itself are the same.

 

correct, high capacity for dirt, not air. ;-)

[crushNchowda]

 

In many cases (around 375-400 cars now), I am the tuner and you are wrong, nothing personal, I am sure you are right about a lot of things, but not this.

 

I only tune GM products. I have only owned GM products (around 100), except for my wife's Mercedes'.....

 

 

 

 

Guess who tuned them all?

 

CEL and intakes? Give me a break.

 

Hey if that's the case you may be right and I may be wrong regarding the CEL codes and CAI's - but, since you are a tuner, and you have tuned a bunch of GM cars, you really going to say I'm wrong that $450 spent on a custom tune would provide SIGNIFICANTLY more grins/performance/mpg gains on a stock vehicle vs. $300 on an intake on a stock vehicle?

 

That's kinda what I'm getting at - I think they're pricey and I'm basically advocating for what you do, many guys are leery of dyno tuning b/c they think "voids warranty" (Noiseflash - level/lifts ABSOLUTELY should void as you can prove the damage they cause), they're suspicious of the HP gain claims or improvements to tranny behavior, or they're more apt to do the old "can-o-tune" thinking some mail order BS or handheld programmer is going to be the same thing (in some cases mail orders can be decent I know) - the reality is $ for $ I cannot think of a better bang for the buck performance mod I have ever done to a car/truck than a custom tune...only thing that sorta ranks up there would be the newest MGW shifter on my C5Z - but that's obviously not applicable here.

[Higgs Boson]

 

Hey if that's the case you may be right and I may be wrong regarding the CEL codes and CAI's - but, since you are a tuner, and you have tuned a bunch of GM cars, you really going to say I'm wrong that $450 spent on a custom tune would provide SIGNIFICANTLY more grins/performance/mpg gains on a stock vehicle vs. $300 on an intake on a stock vehicle?

 

That's kinda what I'm getting at - I think they're pricey and I'm basically advocating for what you do, many guys are leery of dyno tuning b/c they think "voids warranty" (Noiseflash - level/lifts ABSOLUTELY should void as you can prove the damage they cause), they're suspicious of the HP gain claims or improvements to tranny behavior, or they're more apt to do the old "can-o-tune" thinking some mail order BS or handheld programmer is going to be the same thing (in some cases mail orders can be decent I know) - the reality is $ for $ I cannot think of a better bang for the buck performance mod I have ever done to a car/truck than a custom tune...only thing that sorta ranks up there would be the newest MGW shifter on my C5Z - but that's obviously not applicable here.

 

I honestly didn't read the whole post.

 

A tune does more than a lot of minor bolt ons, I would put it up against anything short of a camshaft swap.