Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Recommended Posts



I recently bought a 2000 GMC Sierra 2500 extended cab SLT 2wd with the 5.3L. I was very excited about this truck initially as I got it at a great price, but I am starting to become overwhelmed with all of its problems I recently discovered.


The previous owner purchased this truck at an auction, and put a lot of new parts on it mechanically and cosmetically. There are a lot of mis-matched parts on this truck and I can tell it is somewhat of a "Frankenstein." One thing I noticed is that there are 4x4 buttons on the dash, even though this is a 2wd truck (no T-case). So obviously someone put a new dash on from a 4wd donor. Also, the plastic around the ignition cylinder looks like its been monkeyed with, so someone was probably fooling around near the steering column.


When I test drove the truck, the only light on was "Service Engine Soon." However, when I brought my truck to get an OBDII scan at the parts store it returned 14 codes (some duplicates) which are as follows:


B0017 - Passenger frontal deployment loop open

B0024 - Driver deployment loop short to ground

B0036 - Discriminating sensor open or short to voltage

B0051 - Deployment commanded

C0265 - EBCM relay circuit

P0430 - Catalyst system - Low efficiency (Bank 2)

P0440 - EVAP system

P0449 - Evaporative canister vent solenoid control circuit


But, NO lights are ever on the dash except the SES. Shouldn't the airbag or SRS light be on as well? On startup the only lights that come are the SES, nothing else. All the gauges work, although they bounce oddly when I shut off the truck. The voltage needle also twitches very slightly when I use the turn signal. Also, when I turn on the headlamps, the only thing lit up is the cluster. The radio, climate controls, and everything else is dark. And, when I cleared the codes with the ODBII scanner, the radio went off and reset itself to 1:00?!


I have literally spent hours on end searching in vain for a definitive answer to this host of problems with only little success. I am guessing that the "B" codes mean that I need a new SDM? Perhaps this truck was in a wreck?

P0430 might be because of a small exhaust leak this truck has, or possibly the cat is bad. P0440 and P0449 might mean I need a new EVAP solenoid or can?


Please help me, it would be greatly appreciated. This truck means a lot to my little family as it is how we are getting across the country for my new job in Tallahassee. Any insights would be very welcome. Thank you all.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

I took apart my dash today and found two yellow wires under the dash that looked rubbed through to bare wire then had been electrical taped. I also found a brownish small wire that was completely severed. I reconnected the brown wire and retaped the yellow wires. I took out the cluster but couldn't get at the board to see if the little bulbs were broken off. I checked every single fuse in the whole truck inside and under the hood and all the fuses are good. However, someone removed the giant ABS fuse and the giant one for "air" or whatever is missing completely. I also put on a gas cap from the junkyard that appeared to be newer and in better condition.

I also had my truck rescanned (as last time I erased the codes) and now I only have two codes p0449 and b0017. Were the 14 codes just old ones that were stored? Also, how can I get the ABS, cruise, seatbelt, brake and other lights to work on the cluster? Do I have to buy a new one? If I buy a new cluster does that mean the total truck mileage changes? I bet this truck had 300,000 miles and they swapped out the cluster for one that had only 144,000. What is up with the b0017? Does p0449 mean that I need a new EVAP solenoid? And I still have no lights on the radio, climate or other stuff at night, only the cluster and the door buttons.

I'm spending hours tearing apart my truck and researching old threads and goolge but I need help desperately.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took apart my dash today and it looks like the air bag is still in the passenger side. Don't know what it's supposed to look like but its all folded up in there. Also found the connector unplugged for the passenger airbag. It is obviously unplugged because the two connectors are completely different. Someone must have replace the entire dash and it must be from a different year or model. Also I looked at the cluster and someone broke off the little bulbs for the brake ABS and air bag. It looks like they unsoldered it so I think I can solder them back in if I can get the computerboard off without breaking it. Does anybody have any idea what model and/or year my dash might be from? Is it possible to hardwire the two connectors together even though one has two wires and the other has 4? How do I solder new LED bulbs on board? Thank you very much.


PIC 1: Top connector from wrong dash (goes to pass airbag), bottom connector from truck harness


PIC 2: Pic of passenger airbag on/off connector


PIC 3: Diagram of pass airbag connectors and wire colors














Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had it inspected by the GMC dealership and they said everything was solid. Of course they didn't scan for codes. Except for the dashboard/airbag issue everything is fine. I think someone replaced the original dash with one from an 04' Sierra. This would explain why it still fits correctly but some of the connectors are different. Is there anyway to hardwire the two different connectors for the passenger airbag? I have the pinouts but I'm not skilled enough to decide if I can splice them together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Clear "ALL" the codes. Warm up the truck for about 10 to 15 minutes, see what codes return quickly on the first round. List these codes here. This is going to be one major cluster fl*k!!!


You made one important statement, "I'm not skilled enough to decide if I can splice them together". In dealing with any air bag, ...if you are not "skilled" with the air bag system, ...don't screw with "any" aspect of it. One wiring / repair screw up can deploy the bags at the worst time causing very severe injury / death. Have a "professional" deal with that type of repair.

Edited by Motor City Rick
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Content

    • By Chris41586
      Fairly new to posting here, so please let me know if this question would do better in another spot. I have a 2017 Sierra 1500 SLT. About 2 years ago when it was hot out,I started my truck, and the dash started flashing through all of the warning signs(seat belt, air pressure, pretty much every warning). None of my gauges worked on the dash, but my infotainment system worked, and my lights, including blinkers, on the outside worked. After running it for about ten minutes, it like reset itself and the dash started working. It was under warranty at the time, but only happened once. Now, my truck is no longer under warranty, and it happens every single time it's hot outside. The dealership said they'd have to keep my truck for awhile to let it mimic the issue, and I know they will charge me out the ass just to find the problem, before asking for a couple grand to fix it. Considering it only happens when it's hot, I feel like something is expanding and making a connection issue. Has anyone had any experience or heard of this? I would greatly appreciate any advice on what to look for it how to test the issue. I did use a tester while it was doing it last time, but no codes came up. I'm really confused. 
    • By Ed Ewing
      I have had a problem passing emissions in IL.  I have a cheap obd2 scanner and was having trouble clearing the p0442 code only to find out it is a permanent trouble code.  I ran a smoke test and repaired the leaking EVap fitting.  I then drove for weeks waiting for the evap readiness monitor to OK and it has just completed.  However, I still see the code p0442 stored.  All monitors are complete and there is no engine light on. I had expected the code to clear after I made the repair and the evap readiness completed.   I need to get it back to test emissions so that I can pass and re register my vehicle.    Do the permanent codes clear on their own? If so, how long does it take seeing that all monitors are complete and no light is on.  
      Thanks, Ed
      ***I am not a professional mechanic but try to do my own repairs.  
    • By Corr HexEditor
      We are developing a new software program that focuses on removing DTCs from vehicles. Our support list is very broad and includes trucks as well. I would like to know if you would be interested in such a program? Or you may know people who need it. Let me know.
      Best regards.
    • By TLalli
      I purchased a 2021 Silverado Crew Cab High Country 4WD about 4 months ago from Watson Chevrolet in Tucson Arizona. Within week of driving the truck I began noticing some pretty strange sporadic things happening. I started video taping the issues when I could to document what was happening.  Ticking noise coming from the engine when cold starting, sporadically have hourglass on stereo saying “loading” it would continue until the engine was turned off and back on then it was OK. “Park Assist” Error message sporadically popping up while driving down the road, Horn honking (three short honks) for no reason while sitting in traffic at a red light. At 900 miles I reached out to the dealer and told them these concerns and issues I was experiencing. The service manager explain to me “the truck has a lot of technology and it just needs to learn your driving habits, you just need to keep driving it”
      At 11,000 and 3 months after purchasing I get the loud lifter noise, “Service parking brake”message, “steering assist reduced” message, “Service ESC light” and “check engine light” I drove it into the other dealership located in Tucson (O’Reilly Chevrolet), they keep the truck for about three weeks and “replace lifters on one bank and 1 bent push rod” and tell me that they couldn’t duplicate any of the other issues however they did a firmware upgrade and everything should be fine. One week after getting the truck back (11500 miles) I get another check engine light, Keep in mind I can still hear the lifters ticking when starting it first thing in the morning. I take back to the dealer after a week of a being in the shop, They tell me “The check engine light was because there was multiple cylinder misfire and it was the opposite bank from the lifters they replaced” however they can’t duplicate the problem so there’s nothing they can do. They admitted that the computer had logged over 200 misfires on one cylinder and that’s what made the check engine light turned on, then they go on to tell me they can’t duplicate the problem so there’s nothing they can do. I asked them about the ticking noise when starting and the tell me “that’s normal, it’s not lifter noise you’re hearing, it’s the new technology fuel pumps GM is using that’s making that noise” 
      Other issue I have had is the rotors on all four wheels at times will turn blue and discolored as if the brakes and her have been completely overheated. But it’s not the entire rotor It’s only the center inch of all rotors. The inside edge and outside edges look normal. 
      I have a purchased over 11 band new (Ford, Chevy, Dodge, Toyota) Trucks in the past 30 years this is by far the worst freaking vehicle I have ever purchased.
    • By Ryan Woodcock
      Hi everyone. I have a 2000 Suburban I just bought a couple months ago. I got a couple of check engine codes I've been working through, but I'm stuck on these last three.
      I have the following current codes: P0175 (System Too Rich Bank 2), P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1), and P0430 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1).
      I had codes for knock sensors as well, but got them replaced, and only these three codes remain.
      I took temperatures at the exhaust ports on the manifolds on both sides. Bank 2 was significantly hotter than bank 1. By more than 100F-150F.
      I took temperatures at the inlet and outlet of both cats. Sometimes the outlet was hotter, sometimes it wasn't. I have a cheap Walmart infrared so I take all temp readings with a grain of salt however. Outlet temps were within 100F of the inlets.
      I also took readings of the o2 sensor voltages for upstream and downstream for both banks. The upstreams appeared fine but the downstreams were pretty inconsistent. Sometimes staying pretty flat near 0.03v, other times they'd spike. They did this regardless of being at idle, or revving the engine at 2000rpm in park.
      I'm slightly confused at the information I gathered today, I'm trying to determine what road to go down. I'm good at working on things, not so much diagnosing. I plan on replacing both downstream o2 sensors with new ACDelco's to start, and that should tell me if the cats are bad if the codes come back, if my thinking is correct.
      But I'm most confused about how one bank of cylinders could be running rich, but the other isn't? Shouldn't all fuel injectors be getting the same amount fuel, at the same pressure? Everything I've found online says if I have P0175, I should also have P0172.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    Total Topics
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    Total Members
    Most Online
    Newest Member

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.