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Still Not Sold On A Catch Can? Check Here...


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1 hour ago, BigBlueLB756 said:

A few of you might remember when you bought gas at a "service station" and the attendant pumped your gas, checked your tire pressure, checked your oil level, and cleaned your windshield.  "Serviced" your vehicle.

 

Guess what?!?  YOU are now that guy and if you're not doing these things, you're NOT doing your job as a vehicle maintainer. 

Get to work; a catch can is a very easy thing to check and empty when you service these things.

 

If a 74 year-old man can do it,...…...

Those that install the CC will more than likely take care of it.  My question is, when the vehicle gets traded and the new owner doesn't have a clue and just puts gas in and goes. Takes it to the dealer for all maintenance.  Then what happens?  I know this will be a long time from now and a very select few out in the world in retrospect. 

 

I can see it now, Mr./Mis (insert any name here) purchase vehicle, drives it and then there is issues that develop. Takes it to the dealer, dealer tells them the CC that is installed caused the problem and now they are out big $$$$.   Like I said, just a matter of time and only in a select few.  We all know how GM likes to put the blame on aftermarket stuff.

 

Again, not for or against, just food for thought.

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Boils down to being a responsible person which IMO isn't often.

I will remove my catch can before selling my truck or let the buyer make the call to keep or remove it.

:)

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Exactly!  When and if I trade again,  I'll remove all of the mods I did or make sure to document anything left that was not factory-installed so that the next buyer will have an idea what's going on.  But when it's gone, it's no longer my worry.

 

The "For Sale" section is full of "removed" mods.

 

You can learn how to do things right by being in the military.

Edited by BigBlueLB756
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Exactly!  When and if I trade again,  I'll remove all of the mods I did or make sure to document anything left that was not factory-installed so that the next buyer will have an idea what's going on.  But when it's gone, it's no longer my worry.
 
The "For Sale" section is full of "removed" mods.
 
You can learn how to do things right by being in the military.

Main reason I do not buy used vehicles, never know what you’re getting especially one that’s been traded in early.
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On 12/20/2018 at 1:13 PM, BigBlueLB756 said:

Always willing to constructively help:

 

V1. 2008 Pontiac G8GT

 

100_0036.jpg

 

V2.  2013 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT Z60

 

 

100_0324.jpg

 

V3.  2016 Chevy Tahoe

 

100_0705.jpg

Thanks! Seems simple enough. No mods to the internals of the separator? 

 

So us northern folks, is freezing a legit issue? 

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On ‎12‎/‎20‎/‎2018 at 7:58 AM, BigBlueLB756 said:

Less than $60.00 in parts PLUS the satisfaction of putting it together yourself (priceless).  You do mod, don't you?

The snot these things collect in NO way can be beneficial for any type of combustion.  Even better for algore than a cabin air filter.

I have to admit that when I replied my thought was it 'looked' like an inline air compressor separator. Gezzz, it actually IS one. :lol: 

That's okay, I look for my glasses when I'm wearing them too. $60 is better than $500 ya got me. :thumbs:

 

Do I mod? :) Yep. But I don't mod things I'm not having a problem with. I've replied to various threads on this topic. Mine just doesn't pull oil save one time over a few minutes that the ECU went nutty closing the oil dump solenoid and even then it was a trace. I've provided photo's so will not again. Yes this is not true for everyone which begs a very basic question....

 

WHY?

 

I'm about 99-4/10% Ivory pure sure it's the type of service Pepper is in and the type of service she's received. 

 

Look, they are standard on some HD engines in one form or another which should tell you something about them. The need is service (LOAD) sensitive. Some treat LD motors like they were HD versions and so I would expect they would need them as well.

 

My resistance isn't in their ability to do a job if needed but in the 'me too' thinking that has one speeding money or making modifications blindly. "Mine does so you WILL need one too" is crap advise just as 'Mine doesn't so yours won't either". 

 

Your service AND/OR you habits will determine the need. Define them, refine them THEN if you need one add it. Just don't be a sheep to slaughter...and think. If I, at some point in Pepper's life, I have a need....I will remember this air compressor separator idea. It's doing a job it was actually DESIGNED to do. A novel concept eh?   

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I have to admit that when I replied my thought was it 'looked' like an inline air compressor separator. Gezzz, it actually IS one. [emoji38] 
That's okay, I look for my glasses when I'm wearing them too. $60 is better than $500 ya got me. :thumbs:
 
Do I mod? [emoji4] Yep. But I don't mod things I'm not having a problem with. I've replied to various threads on this topic. Mine just doesn't pull oil save one time over a few minutes that the ECU went nutty closing the oil dump solenoid and even then it was a trace. I've provided photo's so will not again. Yes this is not true for everyone which begs a very basic question....
 

WHY?

 

I'm about 99-4/10% Ivory pure sure it's the type of service Pepper is in and the type of service she's received. 
 
Look, they are standard on some HD engines in one form or another which should tell you something about them. The need is service (LOAD) sensitive. Some treat LD motors like they were HD versions and so I would expect they would need them as well.
 
My resistance isn't in their ability to do a job if needed but in the 'me too' thinking that has one speeding money or making modifications blindly. "Mine does so you WILL need one too" is crap advise just as 'Mine doesn't so yours won't either". 
 
Your service AND/OR you habits will determine the need. Define them, refine them THEN if you need one add it. Just don't be a sheep to slaughter...and think. If I, at some point in Pepper's life, I have a need....I will remember this air compressor separator idea. It's doing a job it was actually DESIGNED to do. A novel concept eh?   
Can you get a picture of the oil dump solenoid?
Where is it on your truck?

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29 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:


Main reason I do not buy used vehicles, never know what you’re getting especially one that’s been traded in early.

Exactly...I've bought two used cars in the past twenty years...sort of justified because both were for my two boys who had finally gotten to the age to legally drive. They paid for them, I was just the bank and therefore had a say in what they got as I am a believer in never telling someone what to do with their money...advise, yes, demand, no. As you mentioned, you never know what you're getting. Because of this fact, I did something almost unheard of these days...I used the newspaper to look for used cars. I found that MOST elderly people still use the newspaper as opposed to the internet to list classified ads and MOST elderly people take care of their cars, they grew up when taking care of things was the norm, not the oddity. Found a really nice Toyota Camry (boy #1) with records from purchase and all services performed. A year later, found a equally nice Honda Accord two door (boy #2) with the same (although not quite as detailed) service records. Didn't guarantee the cars were going to be good buys but it did turn out that way. In fact, if I were ever to buy a used vehicle again I'd first look through the newspaper classified ads again.

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1 hour ago, Hillwood said:

Can you get a picture of the oil dump solenoid?
Where is it on your truck?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

The solenoid is mounted on/in the oil pump which is mounted over the crankshaft snout behind the cover. So no...no pictures. It changes the volume of the pump and is driven by the ECM kicking in the second volume stage about 3500-3700 rpm. Sources vary on the exact rpm point. The same pump is common to all three motors. 4.3, 5.3 & 6.2 truck. 

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Three things a catch can must have:

1. No resistance to the flow of vacuum air through from the valve cover PCV to the intake plenum;

2. A non-clog-able material for the oil to collect on and drop off into the bowl for emptying;

3. A convenient way to drain without disassembly or damage to seals or O-rings.

 

A way to see what has been collected is also nice.

 

I prefer this stuff to replace the bronze filter element.  Some have used pot scrubbers but I'm not for any type of metallic thing that could flake off and be sucked into the intake.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Filtrete-Cut-to-Fit-Common-20-in-x-30-in-x-1-in-Actual-20-in-x-30-in-x-0-25-in-Washable-Adjustable-Air-Filter/50124672

 

Spend your money wisely (unless you're getting it from dear ol' Dad).

Edited by BigBlueLB756
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The solenoid is mounted on/in the oil pump which is mounted over the crankshaft snout behind the cover. So no...no pictures. It changes the volume of the pump and is driven by the ECM kicking in the second volume stage about 3500-3700 rpm. Sources vary on the exact rpm point. The same pump is common to all three motors. 4.3, 5.3 & 6.2 truck. 
Ok , the two stage oil pump.. The solenoid switches it from high to low, controlled by the ECM.

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On 12/21/2018 at 11:18 AM, Hillwood said:

When that can freezes up and your engine can't breathe you will blow out the seals and loose all your oil ...
2.4 engine is known for this. The pcv port freezes and blows out the rear main. Every winter we see this.
Mind you, I'm talking up north with extreme temperature swings which cause extreme condensation.
If the can gives you peace of mind, I'm happy for you..
I won't have one..
 

How the hell would the can freeze up?  If it was full of water, sure. Beyond that, how could your theory even be plausible. 

 

I have been running a catch can in my N54 powered BMW for years through Ohio winters.(one of the original DI motors and notorious for poor oil control).  Car is parked outside 24/7 can can sit for days at a time. Magically I have had zero issues. 

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3 hours ago, Nitrousbird said:

How the hell would the can freeze up?  If it was full of water, sure. Beyond that, how could your theory even be plausible. 

 

I have been running a catch can in my N54 powered BMW for years through Ohio winters.(one of the original DI motors and notorious for poor oil control).  Car is parked outside 24/7 can sit for days at a time. Magically I have had zero issues. 

 

The problem with common sense is that it isn't commonly used. 

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How the hell would the can freeze up?  If it was full of water, sure. Beyond that, how could your theory even be plausible. 
 
I have been running a catch can in my N54 powered BMW for years through Ohio winters.(one of the original DI motors and notorious for poor oil control).  Car is parked outside 24/7 can can sit for days at a time. Magically I have had zero issues. 
con-den-sa-tion
water that collects as droplets on a cold surface when humid air is in contact with it.
The conversion of a vapor or gas to a liquid .

I have replaced several 2.4 engines in Equinox vehicles... PVC port freezes up.
I have seen 3800 engnes freeze up the MAP sensor port and run like shit.
How is this possible inside the engine?
CONDENSATION!

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