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Hello, I have a 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 4X4, 110,000 miles, was driving down the road and suddenly stopped moving, truck still on but won't move. Goes into drive and reverse but wont move. No check engine light, transmission fluid full, and clean, no crazy noises. Any clue what it could be? I have been told the linkage, or the transmission pump... Any advice is appreciated.
Hey Everybody. I’m about to have my 2014 Silverado AFM deleted with stage 3 cam upgrade, longtube headers, l86 intake, l86 TB, 3200 stall, custom tune. My question- is their other things I must do to go with these upgrades? Truck is 4x4 but will soon be lowered. Driveshaft? New Trans cooler? Bigger oil pump? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
Was wondering if it was ok to put a strut spacer on top of a loaded strut. I have 2016 z71 and put a 2inch level load strut on truck. I am looking to maybe go a little higher. Would like to do 3 in front and 1 inch in back. Can I add a 1inch spacer to front? Also should I get an aftermarket control arm if am going to 3 inches?
Long story short, I think I need to buy springs but don't know which ones to select. RockAuto has 27 different "GM Genuine" coil springs for a 2017 GMC Sierra with 6.2L engine.
I am wanting to match the spring rate of a 2017 GMC Sierra SLT CrewCab 4x4 6.2L. If someone has this exact truck, maybe they could post their RPO codes please? Or maybe, hopefully, someone has a better idea to get this info?
The long story (if you care to read on) is I have the 2017 GMC Sierra Denali CrewCab 4x4 6.2L with MagneRide shocks & struts. The truck has just under 60K miles and the ride quality has degraded over time. I know at least 1 shock is bad due to it leaking, no codes have been thrown on the dash. Due to the mileage and the expense of the MagneRide shocks, I am pursuing replacing them all with conventional shocks and at the same time, getting my truck level.
Several options on the market claiming great ride quality but I'm leaning towards the Bilstein 5100's that I've had on past trucks or the Eibach ProTruck kit E80-23-006-02-22 for $704 that sound great too but I'll need to buy strut mounts and deal with compressing those beasts (others have had issues). Or possibly the RoughCountry E2 loaded struts #501029 - inexpensive but not sure on ride quality + reliability or maybe even Fox 2.0's if I can find them for a good price. I would even consider the Belltech coilovers #15102 for $650 /pair if I could find someone running them with a positive review.
If/since my MagneRide coil springs aren't the same/compatible, with some kits including the Bilsteins, I'll need to buy new springs, which isn't a huge deal since they aren't too expensive - some as low as $34. I know Eibach's kit comes with springs included but it appears they have a higher spring rate for trucks with extra weight on the front of their trucks.
Of course, I'll need to deal with the MRC electronics, cheapest I've found is https://www.magdelete.com/collections/sierra-1500 and I may end up just getting the entire kit from him but don't know which springs are used with his either...
It does make some sense that there are so many different GM Genuine coil springs due to there being 3 different engines available, 3 different cab sizes and 4 different trims...
I do zero off-roading or towing and am just looking for a nice street ride with a leveled look.
I welcome input on anything I've said but I'm mainly looking for the proper conventional OEM spring that will match best with my truck.
I have a 2007 1500 crew cab classic that I've done more restoration and customization to than I really would like to admit especially with guys that truely understand these trucks. I went way to far because I needed a truck to haul more than mine should have done and refused to get rid of it.
All that being said, my frame is rusted to the point that repairs are no longer going to cut it. I've replaced 1 cross member, boxed in the back half with 10 gauge steel, added braces but now the cross member above back tank strap is rusted off drivers side as well as the large one under rear of the cab and it's trying to fold on me. I've replaced all bushings on control arms, tierod holes modified to accept hd tierods, new CV axles, front diff gas new outter bearings and seals, new ujoints in front and rear shafts with the rear being a steel shaft that is rebalanced. freshly build transfer case with pump guard, transmission has an upgraded trailblazer 2400 Stall converter so about 2700 in the heavier truck, input shaft for a 4l65e, redline wide bands, Corvette servo, 9 plate clutches and hd bearings. the rear diff is a Yukon duragrip, swapped from 3.42 to 3.73, 4 wheel disk with drilled and slotted, gutted the cats with a 3" stainless mbrp installers choice cat back single exhaust, ho premium tune. I also installed a 5000lb load/lift airbag system with pump and tank behind the rear seat and guage/controller in the dash. body is completely redone after being tore down to the driveline and cab bring only thing left on the frame so I was already half way there 3 years ago.
The big question is what year frames can I use frame wise. what will be the cheapest option in everyone's opinion? living in northern Michigan, finding a used one local is kinda dumb in my opinion because you're going to be blasting a ton of rust off at 5he least so why go through the work of swapping with another. one that is already half way gone. will either be driving to get one or having shipped. somewhere between me and Arkansas would be best as I have a friend that makes that trip several times a year. of course money is tight especially with this hog costing me 51¢ a mile in just fuel the last couple weeks. I'm seriously leaning towards wanting to do a swap with a frame that has the harness attached still. I'm having electrical issues from hell to boot. gas gauge hasn't worked since 2018 when I got it and I've tried everything shy of ecm(I did try bcm and tcm), I've got a bad wire somewhere in harness for bank one and also to the tps. I play with those. wiring harnesses if it starts to run bad and it smooths right out but have no clue which wire is to be the culprit and pinpoint the break inside the sheathing. the biggest ****** there is 07 classic is a complete Frankenstein from the factory. the engine is flex fuel capable but no active fuel management which all the fuel components are the same as 08. the oil filter is ordered by 08 to make sure I get the right one. suspension parts I just say 06 on. half the all cab wiring is ob's so I don't know how this all plays out harness wise.
I parked it under a big tree Thursday that had a ton of very large dead libs during a severe windstorm and nothing but a nice live tree did fall right where I had it parked prior and no I can't make this ****** up. I'm over insured and was hoping for a little help with my decision on this thing.
sorry for the rambling guys, just wanted all factors to be known when advise given
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