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2015 Silverado Flashing Check Engine Light - No Engine Power
I have a 2020 RST with the 3.0 LM2 Duramax with 79k miles… the flywheel failed when I was driving down the highway and left me dead in the water.. I had it towed to the dealership 4 weeks ago and they called today and said the transmission and the engine needs to be replaced. Has anyone experienced this with their trucks? I never towed anything heavy and was religious with service.. luckily all covered under the 100k powertrain warranty…
Hello everyone. I've recently purchased a 2020 Silverado 1500 from a dealership. I found out late in the sale that the truck was used as the dealerships "loaner" which didn't really bother me even though I know people beat up those vehicles. Anyway, I'm pretty in-tune to vehicle sounds and I had a couple of questions regarding noises I'm hearing from my vehicle.
The first is a clunking noise and a physical jolt when I shift from Drive to Reverse. I have my foot on the brake and am on a flat surface. I notice it a lot after I've been driving for a while and go to back into my garage. I took the truck back to the dealership and they chalked it up to bad U-joints. They slapped 2 fresh sets on, but I've still go the issue. Any ideas what it may be? I don't feel like anything is going to fail, but I also don't like the sound and don't think it should be that way. I have another service appointment next week and I'd like to help them out with ideas considering they don't really seem to care.
The second is a ticking noise coming from the undercarriage. I' got under the truck today and believe it's coming from the rear portion of the engine, but I'm not for certain as I've never been beneath the truck while it's been on a rack. The noise cannot be heard when standing at the front with the hood up, but I can hear it very noticeably when standing at the driver's door. I do not hear it as the engine is heating up, but that could be because every other component under the hood is loud as h*ll while the truck is heating up. Once the engine is approaching operating temp, it's very noticeable. As you can hear from the short video, it's every .5 to 1 second or so and is always present during idling. Again, may not be a big issue, but I hate hearing things on my vehicles that I can't attribute to something else.
Thanks for reading my ramblings. I can try to post longer videos if anyone needs. Thanks in advance!
IMG_8898_Trim_Trim (2).mp4 IMG_8910_Trim (2).mp4
So I have a question don’t get on me for being dumb just want other opinions.
I have a ls2 swapped rado bought the truck on a deal only problem was I couldn’t drive it for more than 20-30mins without getting trans hot on the dash and would go into limp mode but if you cut the engine off for a minute or two and cut it back on message went away for another 20-30mins but the actual trans temps never hit about 180
this is where it all starts.
anyway 1blown torque converter later and a trans rebuild my transmission guy told me the genius put a 2500 ecu in just to get the truck to fire up with a slight tune that pulled like a F****** freight train back to the point he tells me the truck thinks is has a 4l80 in it witch It doesn’t I have a 4l60 he said I needed to take it to a tuner shop asap so I don’t blow my trans or torque converter again because there’s a lot of major differences mainly being gear rations and shift points
witch I thought a tune would fix anyway but I wasn’t for sure so I got the truck tuned by Powerfab autosports and they reflashed the ecu programmed it and did a dyno tune
when I pick up the truck the dude shows me the power chart and the truck made 280hp 360tq
witch I think is way ****ing off but I am not a master mechanic I know a lot about vehicle but not enough to be firm on saying that’s bullshit
Why I needs y’all’s insight is because when the truck was ****ed up and giving trans hot display on dash the ****** was a ****** Ton faster and pulled a boat load harder the ass would squat the truck would drop a gear and scream so beautifully she would literally throw me back in my seat and keep in mind this is with 305/35/24s now it’s just feels like I have a slightly beefed up 4.8
engine mods are air intake long tube headers full exhaust trans cooler and that’s pretty much it as far as I’m aware
does anyone know or have any insight as to what is going on and why I am making such low numbers or where the **** my power went??
and I would appreciate no assholes just need some info thanks!
By AaronandAlicia Dailey
OK everyone I want to give thanks ahead for any advice and help.
Truck in question= 2003 Chevy Suburban Z71, 5.3 L Transmission= 4L60-E
So the story started when I was going down the road at about 50mph in cruise control, when suddenly I heard the engine begin to rev up. I hit the brake to take it out of cruise control and the engine stopped revving up. Apparently I lost transmission of power from the engine to the wheels because no matter what gear I put it into now, I get no movement from the vehicle. No reverse and no D1, 2 or 3. When I put the vehicle in park and attempt to push the vehicle it will not roll. When placed in any other gear I can then roll the vehicle freely.
Before this happened: Since owning the vehicle 4x4 has always been shifty.....hehehe...sorry couldnt help it. I have the model where there are 4 buttons with lights the buttons are located left hand of dash near the turn signal. When I first got the truck sometimes it seemed like it didnt want to switch between gears. for example I would have to hit the button multiple times before it would switch and even then it seemed like it hadnt really switched but the lights would indicate it had. Most of the time the light for the button I selected would flash multiple times and then return to previous selection. Often times after turning the vehicle off and then returning to vehicle to go somewhere I would find that the light has switched back to a gear that it wasnt in when i left the vehicle. It seems to favor 4x4hi. As of lately I havent been able to get the lights to switch at all. It seems to be stuck in 4hi permanently.
I have tested the 4wd switch and its fine.
I tried unhooking battery for half hour with lights on to reset PC. I then reconnected battery cable and turned vehicle on but not start it. Then I pulled a bunch of fuses and plugged them back in. ( seen it in a video and the guy said it was supposed to wake up the TCCM) Well that did nothing.
I have the truck off of all wheels right now and was trying to figure out if the transfer case is stuck in neutral. With the truck in drive as I turn the rear draft the front moves also. I am assuming that means it is in 4wd. But should I have someone hold the front drive shaft while i turn the rear drive shaft to confirm its not just from friction or something.
I actually have the front drive shaft partly out right now in an attempt to get at and remove the shift motor and manually put the transfer case into 2hi.
I am also considering changing out solenoids. I have gathered it is unlikely the shift solenoids. Is it possible it could be one of these:
1 * EPC (Pressure Control) Solenoid
1 * PWM Solenoid
1 * Manifold Pressure Switch
1 * TCC Solenoid w/Harness
Another thing I suspect which would be an easy fix is the transfer case fluid level. I removed the fill plug and nothing came out. I can tell it has been leaking. I would have already topped it off but I have been stuck at home (no running vehicle lol). Could low fluid cause this issue? I hope that's all it is lol. Anyways I got a ride to the store tomorrow and to look at a back-up vehicle. Anything you guys recommend to grab from the parts store while I'm in town tomorrow?
What would be your guys recommendation on how to solve this problem and fix it?
All help is appreciated.
thanks in advance,
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