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Leveling a 2016 2500HD


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Hmm. Well after reading through all the responses again I'm a bit confused. I guess I'll have to research each response more in depth and figure something out.

Don't bother, there is some bad info in this thread...

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Loaded question.

 

To start with they are correct, turn the bars up and install shock spacers, if you hate the ride then you keep throwing parts at it till you are happy.

 

Will your truck have the snow plow prep package? They can be cranked super high! The non plow prep truck can get pretty close to level by cranking the bolts all the way in.

 

I am in North Indy and would be glad to help you out as I have done tons of these trucks, I do NOT mean for money or anything like that, I simply mean I can help you get it cranked up and perfectly leveled and shock spacers added.

Does the snow plow prep package effect the factory ride (before you crank the keys)? If they ride the same, then that little package essentially gets you leveling keys installed from the factory....along with skid plates, a upgraded alternator, wiring for extra lighting, and a transmission cooler. Pretty sweet deal for $385.

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Does the snow plow prep package effect the factory ride (before you crank the keys)? If they ride the same, then that little package essentially gets you leveling keys installed from the factory....along with skid plates, a upgraded alternator, wiring for extra lighting, and a transmission cooler. Pretty sweet deal for $385.

 

The only difference between plow prep and non plow prep 2011 and newer is the torsion bars. There is only one torsion key, one adjuster bolt for all trucks.

 

2010 and prior there were different keys and bars depending on how the truck was configured.

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Does the snow plow prep package effect the factory ride (before you crank the keys)? If they ride the same, then that little package essentially gets you leveling keys installed from the factory....along with skid plates, a upgraded alternator, wiring for extra lighting, and a transmission cooler. Pretty sweet deal for $385.

Yes the plow prep gets very stiff bars and make for a stiff jolting ride.

 

 

Plow prep sucks as you can no longer get sliding rear window or home link.

 

You can still order the big alt. and extra battery as well as skid plates.

 

Trans cooler comes standard on all HD trucks.

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The only difference between plow prep and non plow prep 2011 and newer is the torsion bars. There is only one torsion key, one adjuster bolt for all trucks.

 

2010 and prior there were different keys and bars depending on how the truck was configured.

There is no way the same key bolt is used as the plow prep bolt is super long, we are talking 8-9 turns long vs 20 turns!

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The only difference between plow prep and non plow prep 2011 and newer is the torsion bars. There is only one torsion key, one adjuster bolt for all trucks.

 

2010 and prior there were different keys and bars depending on how the truck was configured.

There is no way the same key bolt is used as the plow prep bolt is super long, we are talking 8-9 turns long vs 20 turns!

There seems to be conflicting information here. One of you is telling stories, haha.

 

 

Yes the plow prep gets very stiff bars and make for a stiff jolting ride.

 

 

Plow prep sucks as you can no longer get sliding rear window or home link.

 

You can still order the big alt. and extra battery as well as skid plates.

 

Trans cooler comes standard on all HD trucks.

So, the plow prep trucks ride noticeably more firm, even at stock height? That stinks. And, I knew that you could order the big alternator and skid plates as separate options, but I had forgotten that all HD's came with the transmission cooler standard...and didn't know about the rear slider and home link. Thanks.

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There seems to be conflicting information here. One of you is telling stories, haha.

 

 

So, the plow prep trucks ride noticeably more firm, even at stock height? That stinks. And, I knew that you could order the big alternator and skid plates as separate options, but I had forgotten that all HD's came with the transmission cooler standard...and didn't know about the rear slider and home link. Thanks.

I was a fleet manager with a fleet of over 1,000 2500HD/3500HD trucks, have been around them my whole life, have leveled a TON of them, I not here for profit, ego, or to bs...

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There seems to be conflicting information here. One of you is telling stories, haha.

 

 

So, the plow prep trucks ride noticeably more firm, even at stock height? That stinks. And, I knew that you could order the big alternator and skid plates as separate options, but I had forgotten that all HD's came with the transmission cooler standard...and didn't know about the rear slider and home link. Thanks.

 

There is no way the same key bolt is used as the plow prep bolt is super long, we are talking 8-9 turns long vs 20 turns!

 

 

For 2011-2016, as follows: Torsion bar adjuster "key" p/n 22803418. Torsion bar adjuster bolt p/n 11570329. Bolt spec is M14x2x75. No joke. I checked with plow prep and non plow prep vins. Same bolts, same adjuster, only difference is the bars.

 

2010 and prior? The keys and bars vary. Bolts are the same.

 

As for the bolt being "super long", it is most likely possible that when each truck rolls down the line and they set them up, plow prep trucks may have the bolt not turned in as much as the non plow prep trucks. It could be due to the difference in bars. 2011 and up non plow prep typically have a 4200-4800lbs front end, where plow prep are 5200-6000lbs front end.

 

So, the plow prep trucks ride noticeably more firm, even at stock height? That stinks. And, I knew that you could order the big alternator and skid plates as separate options, but I had forgotten that all HD's came with the transmission cooler standard...and didn't know about the rear slider and home link. Thanks.

 

To me they ride about equal. Sunroof and the power rear are not available with VYU that is correct.

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Not sure why the only way to level a 2500 that is already high enough to raise the front more. Just lower the back a little. A set of McGaughy's shackles and my 2500 is much nicer for getting in and out of the back and doesn't look like a cat in heat or something I am going to enter into a mud bog contest. Frequently off road use and not any issues with stock height of front or lowering of back. And I didn't put any additional strain on CV joints up front or need to do an alignment after the lowering of the back. Can still put in quite a bit of weight in the back and not have any real squat. Just another way to go instead of the common thing of raising the front.

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Not sure why the only way to level a 2500 that is already high enough to raise the front more. Just lower the back a little. A set of McGaughy's shackles and my 2500 is much nicer for getting in and out of the back and doesn't look like a cat in heat or something I am going to enter into a mud bog contest. Frequently off road use and not any issues with stock height of front or lowering of back. And I didn't put any additional strain on CV joints up front or need to do an alignment after the lowering of the back. Can still put in quite a bit of weight in the back and not have any real squat. Just another way to go instead of the common thing of raising the front.

Personal style preference. Freedom of choice. USA. Some like em high, some like em low.

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Not sure why the only way to level a 2500 that is already high enough to raise the front more. Just lower the back a little. A set of McGaughy's shackles and my 2500 is much nicer for getting in and out of the back and doesn't look like a cat in heat or something I am going to enter into a mud bog contest. Frequently off road use and not any issues with stock height of front or lowering of back. And I didn't put any additional strain on CV joints up front or need to do an alignment after the lowering of the back. Can still put in quite a bit of weight in the back and not have any real squat. Just another way to go instead of the common thing of raising the front.

Larger tires....

Not everyone likes a completely stock truck.

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The point was, it seems the first approach that seems to be focused on is raising the front. I merely stated that lowering the back is a viable option as well. Depends on what one is trying to accomplish. When someone mentions leveling a pickup, they are not always interested in bigger tires and other stuff, they just want to take the rake out. True, not everyone likes a completely stock truck, but lowering the back makes it non-stock also.

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