I leveled my truck for $9.00 - lowered the back end of my truck b

[BlackZ71Silverado]

Good deal. Glad it worked out for you and you acheived the look you were after.

[Ridersfan]

Just an FYI, U-Bolts are designed to be used only once. It's something about the way the threads are cut. Shorter U-Bolts are available.

 

Before I knew this, I did the same thing and removed the spacers from a 2009 1500. I put the spacers back in when I traded it. I hope they didn't loosen up and cause any problems.

 

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/reinstalling-ubolts/

Threads are tighter than they've ever been. Now on new threads that have never seen nut torque, so I'm confident it's going to be just fine

[mracer]

Do you have any additional pictures from the side of just your truck? I am really leaning towards doing this with my 2015 GMC All Terrain CC versus raising the front. Thanks!

[Ridersfan]

Do you have any additional pictures from the side of just your truck? I am really leaning towards doing this with my 2015 GMC All Terrain CC versus raising the front. Thanks!

This work?

[mracer]

Thanks!!

[Garybee1508]

I re-torqued the nuts when I put it up on the hoist for photos just to be safe.

 

So, to re-cap, it's fairly simple. A 21MM deep impact socket is needed, remove nuts, remove blocks, reinstall nuts, torque. I put 2 flatwashers under each nut just to be darn sure that I was torqued and not out of threads on the U-bolts. This may not be necessary, but cheap insurance. Would have been a completely free mod if I hadn't used the 14MM metric flatwashers (16 total)

do you know what to torque spec for the shackle bolts should be ,would appreciate it

[Ridersfan]

do you know what to torque spec for the shackle bolts should be ,would appreciate it

59 lb ft 1st pass + 130 degrees final pass

[Garybee1508]

59 lb ft 1st pass + 130 degrees final pass

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106] thanks

[Ridersfan]

As was mentioned earlier by another user in this thread... you do have to replace U-bolts normally. I'm confident that they don't have to be replaced to lower as the rolled threads that are torqued up now have never seen torque until now... but if ever you want to go back to stock, it would be necessary to use brand new u-bolts.

[GMC_SD_Ult_16]

I re-torqued the nuts when I put it up on the hoist for photos just to be safe.

 

So, to re-cap, it's fairly simple. A 21MM deep impact socket is needed, remove nuts, remove blocks, reinstall nuts, torque. I put 2 flatwashers under each nut just to be darn sure that I was torqued and not out of threads on the U-bolts. This may not be necessary, but cheap insurance. Would have been a completely free mod if I hadn't used the 14MM metric flatwashers (16 total)

I am a complete newbie when it come to leveling etc. I see your clear instructions on tools needed, location, etc but once the u-bolts are loose do you have to lift the body with something so the 1 1/2" spacers come out or am I missing something. I don't have access to a lot of jacks or Jack stands so trying to figure out that part of the process. Thanks to anyone who comments.

 

Also has anyone who has performed this find they had to adjust their headlights. I know 1 1/2" is not a lot but wasn't sure if it made a headlight issue. Thanks again.

 

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[Ridersfan]

I have a full shop and suite of tools at my disposal

[qwank]

I am a complete newbie when it come to leveling etc. I see your clear instructions on tools needed, location, etc but once the u-bolts are loose do you have to lift the body with something so the 1 1/2" spacers come out or am I missing something. I don't have access to a lot of jacks or Jack stands so trying to figure out that part of the process. Thanks to anyone who comments.

 

Also has anyone who has performed this find they had to adjust their headlights. I know 1 1/2" is not a lot but wasn't sure if it made a headlight issue. Thanks again.

 

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The easiest way is to jack up the rear and put a jack stand on each side of the rear frame, then support the rear diff with a jack. unbolt everything, lower the jack a little, slide the blocks out and then jack the diff back up and tighten everything up.

[qwank]

So I just did this on my regular cab and I ended up at the same height you started at. Of course I forgot to measure it first.

[GMC_SD_Ult_16]

The easiest way is to jack up the rear and put a jack stand on each side of the rear frame, then support the rear diff with a jack. unbolt everything, lower the jack a little, slide the blocks out and then jack the diff back up and tighten everything up.

Thanks for the feedback... I assumed would need some jack stands and a good jack. I will contact my friends that have those resources.. Thanks.

 

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[51 stovebolt]

Just too add to this and not hijack, I used the lowered shackles because I actually came down a full 3 inches. That being said there is no need to get new u-bolts. Even the shackle kits lets you re-use your stock bolts. The only thing they do if you remove the block as stated above they give you spacers to serve as the same as the washers he used. So great idea to use washers, but can use spacers if you get the proper size.