How-To: Adding A Coolant Filter K2.

Eddie 70 · December 4, 2016

I like this idea also. How is the working out for you guys that have done this? This does not take the place of regular coolant changes but should help to keep the system clean.

Did the original poster put a T in the line? I cannot see this being a benefit. Since the filter is a restriction in the flow, the flow is all going to be through the T. I think you should probably rethink that. I understand that you do not want flow to stop completely because the filter gets clogged, but adding the bypass like that essentially eliminates the purpose of the filter.

FL335i · December 5, 2016

I'm at 57k now. Working great. Coolant is clean. As long as the filter doesn't get ridiculously clogged flow will not be impeded. I'm at 60k and have no intentions of doing a coolant flush. I'm following the owner's manual and checking flow through my filter at every oil change. I think 30k -45k might be a good interval for the coolant filter. The filter is very large, especially for a small gasoline passenger car engine. I'll probably change mine around 75k, IIRC believe I installed around 42k or 44k. I also check the antifreeze freezing level at every oil change and check for coolant electrolysis with every bell and whistle turned on and during startup. I must admit, I'm curious how much debris is inside my filter. All I know is my overflow is clean as a whistle now.

Eddie 70 · December 5, 2016

I'm at 57k now. Working great. Coolant is clean. As long as the filter doesn't get ridiculously clogged flow will not be impeded. I'm at 60k and have no intentions of doing a coolant flush. I'm following the owner's manual and checking flow through my filter at every oil change. I think 30k -45k might be a good interval for the coolant filter. The filter is very large, especially for a small gasoline passenger car engine. I'll probably change mine around 75k, IIRC believe I installed around 42k or 44k. I also check the antifreeze freezing level at every oil change and check for coolant electrolysis with every bell and whistle turned on and during startup. I must admit, I'm curious how much debris is inside my filter. All I know is my overflow is clean as a whistle now.

Thanks for the reply FL355i. The way you had yours setup with out a T is the way it should be done IMO. Glad to hear this is working good. I may need to do this. I checked mine to see how you have yours setup and it looks to be pretty easily done. Thanks for all the detail.

FL335i · December 6, 2016

No worries. I also agree there is no need for the tee. There are other hoses and passages to relieve pressure in the even the filter is plugged. Heater hoses, radiator hoses... again, this filter is massive and could honestly probably go 100k w/out plugging but I rather not find out. The 1st filter probably catches 99% of the debris from the manufacturing process. The 2nd filter could probably go the life of the truck in all honesty being a gas motor. But I'll stick with a 30k on the 1st filter interval and then 45k intervals on the 2nd filter on. Following the owner's manual for coolant flushes along with checking for electrolysis and freeze protection on top of the filter is beyond good. The coolant will not be the downfall of the truck. Frame will probably rust out before the coolant system goes bad.

Reminder, I removed my valves. I was not happy with the china quality and did not see a point for them. When replacing one of the hoses I lost only ounces of coolant. Valves would be needed if the filter is mounted low on a semi truck and you have a big issue on your hands just to change the filter. Valves were a complete waste of money. And the Autozone hose is crap quality. It's rock hard. The NAPA hose is still good.... So i'm replacing the autozone hose with a Napa hose soon.

FL335i · July 31, 2017

I'm at 68,500 miles now. On the 2nd filter. Coolant tank is clean. No issues at all other than the top of the filters rust pretty easily and look bad. Un-painted surface on the filter. Aside from that it's great.

Eddie 70 · November 20, 2017

Just added these parts to my Christmas list. We'll see if this shows up. It will give me something maintenance wise to do over the holidays while I am off.

Still doing good for you?

15_silverado · April 10, 2018

On 7/30/2017 at 8:31 PM, FL335i said:

I'm at 68,500 miles now. On the 2nd filter. Coolant tank is clean. No issues at all other than the top of the filters rust pretty easily and look bad. Un-painted surface on the filter. Aside from that it's great.

Check out this link, I just did this as a quick and cheaper alternative. Will replace the filter much more often, but again it's still cheap and very easy.

I'm just curious what your opinion is on this; do you see any problems with this, or am I good. Thanks.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/210771-interesting-coolant-filter-find/

FL335i · April 11, 2018

Good read. Looks like the paper element of the fuel filter was coming apart on him. The alternative is to run a bronze sintered type fuel filter. After my "extensive" coolant flush and overflow bottle replacement I removed my coolant filter setup. The cast iron base was starting to rust, inside where the filter attached, in contact with coolant. The same setup is still on my '89 K5 with Green coolant; no corrosion on the filter housing of any kind. So I am not running anything now on the Silverado, just the K5. After the flush and removal of the big filter setup, I ran an inline fuel filter, sintered type for about two weeks in the overflow hose. Was clean as a whistle. I removed the filter and put the OEM barb fitting back in.

I bought something similar to these, cheaper, to run for 2 weeks after the flush and fill.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Earls-AT230103ERL-Fuel-Filter-Sintered-Bronze-Element-5-16-3-8,272675.html