2002 Silverado 3500 Carter Fuel Pump Repair

n4hmr · April 1, 2016

Hello -

I have a 2002 Chevy Silverado 3500 tilt bed (cab & chassis frame), VIN 1GBJC34U22F129260 and a 6.0L gas engine with front and rear tanks. I need to replace both fuel level sensors in the pumps - and the connectors if possible.

These are likely the original Carter pumps that came with the truck, and they have the older square 4-pin connectors. I have the sensor and wiring kits that include the newer flat 4-pin connectors for both the body wiring side and the pump. These kits came from Herko in Miami, FL - $20 or so ea.

My problem is that I am unsure on how to separate the black connector (with the 4 wires in it) under the top side of the Carter pump from the mating white piece on top of the pump. The pump motors are good - and work - just the sensors are faulty.

The kits came with that black connector already inserted into the mating top side connector. I knew it had to be separated to be installed, but pulling on the parts with moderate force didn't work. So, I called Herko & explained the issue. The rep at first didn't understand what I was saying but finally got one from the warehouse. Then he tried to get it apart - oh yeah.

Finally someone else came to the rescue and told him to eat some Wheaties first. It takes one heck of a pull to separate those connectors - nothing else to take off - just use your and somebody's else's muscle.

Well, that is good - ain't no way in H... that plug is gonna fall off! Or have a bad connection! TIGHT!

After working with the Carter connection unsuccessfully, I called Carter to ask how to get it apart. Note - Carter doesn't sell kits to rebuild their pumps - if anything goes bad, you buy a new pump!

The rep didn't know how to do it and called a engineer. He came back and said the engineer utterly refused to offer ANY info on how to get it apart, including even whether it would just pull off or not! Damn nice of him.

So, does anybody know if this connector can be separated on this bozo pump? If so, how?

I don't want to screw up otherwise working pumps. If I have to, I'll just solder in the new sensors and continue to use the old Crappy connection method (already replaced one square connector some time ago).

Any advice will be appreciated.

Fred

davester · April 2, 2016

Fred, if they are the original fuel pumps, I would suggest replacing the whole unit, the things are almost 15 years old.

And if you don't, then I would suggest opening up the bottom part where the pump is and either replace or clean up the 'sock' that GM claims is a filter.

n4hmr · April 2, 2016

If I had plenty of extra money, new pump wuld be a good option - maybe $200 or so. Problem is that even with new pumps I won't know if the rest of the backside system is working - the rear tank hasn't been used for years. So, I'm taking the course of least resistance for now in just getting the pumps to a condition where they could be expected to function properly.

Then the next step is to see if the PCM sees the proper sensor signals - and then turns on the rear pump when there is more fuel in the back than the front. If that should happen (hopefully), then I'll see what the fuel gauge does - which at present is definitely not behaving normally. That, of course, could be due to the improper signal conditions from the pump sensors.

After all that is dealt with, then I'll turn my attention to getting the front suspension rebuilt - known bad bushings, likely worn ball joints, etc. 152,8xx mi on the truck now.

Note: the front external sock looks pretty good and I now know that the rear pump (Carter also) only comes with an internal sock. Asked Carter about that & the rep confirmed the internal sock only for the rear.

So, for now I still need to know if anyone can advise on how to separate the old style top connector and the black plug under the pump top - seeing as Carter refuses to help/advise..

davester · April 3, 2016

I got REALLY lucky when I replaced my FPs, rockauto.com had one for about $250cdn, but I double checked ebay & amazon for the aux. FP as well, and Amazon had it on for $25US, basically the cost of fedexing the part from the manufacturer to Amazon's warehouse [the fedex label was on the manufacturers box inside].