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Touchdown88

Lift leveling a 2016 2500hd, can I run 35's

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Just finished getting new tires on my truck. 2015 2500 with air bags in the rear and cranked torsion bars with stock keys for a leveled lift. I was running 295/70-18's, had no issues, got a smoking deal on some 35 12.50 18's they mounted no problem and clear easily.

 

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Did you have to get an alignment? And how is the ride?

 

Truck looks great, btw!

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Did you have to get an alignment? And how is the ride?

 

Truck looks great, btw!

Yes, I had an alignment after. Ride is stock or better. And thanks!

 

Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk

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Yes, I had an alignment after. Ride is stock or better. And thanks!

 

Sent from my Z30 using Tapatalk

Are the air bags, the Load lifter helper or do they dictate the stance and raise the back? I'm curious to know how the ride is better when you crank up the stock keys? Wouldnt that make the r ride little more rough? I was skeptical on doing this myself.

 

Also, you fit 12.5" wide tires on the stock rims?

 

Sorry for all questions but you have very similar looking truck to mine.

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Are the air bags, the Load lifter helper or do they dictate the stance and raise the back? I'm curious to know how the ride is better when you crank up the stock keys? Wouldnt that make the r ride little more rough? I was skeptical on doing this myself.

 

Also, you fit 12.5" wide tires on the stock rims?

 

Sorry for all questions but you have very similar looking truck to mine.

No worries on all the questions, that's what these forums are for :)

 

The bags are of the load helper type. When empty, I run around 10 psi in the bags otherwise they'll get ruined. This adds about an inch in height to the rear when unloaded.

 

As for the ride quality, in the stock configuration, the suspension rides on, or very close to a bump stop on the lower arm. This makes the ride a little stiff. Raising the front by cranking the stock keys puts the front travel for the most part purely on the torsion bars, so your riding on the spring only, much better ride. Keep the height increase to 2" max, so the top arm is not resting on the travel stop. Any ride harshness attributed to cranking the stock keys can usually be traced to the upper arm sitting on the upper travel stop.

 

I have the optional 18" wheels, the 12.50" wide tires fit these wheels fine.

 

 

 

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For reference, here's some pictures of my front end of the lower bump stop and the upper travel stop post-84385-146376303827_thumb.jpgpost-84385-146376305217_thumb.jpg

 

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post-84385-146376303827_thumb.jpg

post-84385-146376305217_thumb.jpg

post-84385-146376303827_thumb.jpg

post-84385-146376305217_thumb.jpg

post-84385-146376303827_thumb.jpg

post-84385-146376305217_thumb.jpg

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No worries on all the questions, that's what these forums are for :)

 

The bags are of the load helper type. When empty, I run around 10 psi in the bags otherwise they'll get ruined. This adds about an inch in height to the rear when unloaded.

 

As for the ride quality, in the stock configuration, the suspension rides on, or very close to a bump stop on the lower arm. This makes the ride a little stiff. Raising the front by cranking the stock keys puts the front travel for the most part purely on the torsion bars, so your riding on the spring only, much better ride. Keep the height increase to 2" max, so the top arm is not resting on the travel stop. Any ride harshness attributed to cranking the stock keys can usually be traced to the upper arm sitting on the upper travel stop.

 

I have the optional 18" wheels, the 12.50" wide tires fit these wheels fine.

 

 

 

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Thats great about the rims i have the same ones and I like the style.

What are going to do about shocks? are you gonna keep em and put extenders, or replace with 5100 or something?

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Thats great about the rims i have the same ones and I like the style.

What are going to do about shocks? are you gonna keep em and put extenders, or replace with 5100 or something?

I'm going to just keep the stock shocks the way they are. Once they're pooched, I'll replace with a better quality of the right length. I haven't heard or felt anything that would indicate my front shocks are bottoming out.

 

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A little late reply, but I just put 35's (34.8") on my 2015 HD. I bought 285/75-18's (Toyo Open Country AT2 Extreme's)...on stock wheels. I put in a 2" front lift (keys and shock extensions) with a 1.5" rear block. NO RUBBING at all on the front, even with stock splash guards! Just an FYI. Rides nice and the tires fill up the wheel wells nicely.

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I'm just giving you friendly advice, don't exceed 2.5", those kits that go higher are junk

Did you run one of those kits? Wondering what your personal experience was.

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Did you run one of those kits? Wondering what your personal experience was.

Never ran a level over 2.5", simple geometry. The ball joints, cv joints, etc were engineered to run at the stock height. It's relatively safe to run up to a 2.5" level, but you're just putting that much more stress on your ball joints and cv joints, because they are operating at an angle they really weren't meant to operate at. I had a 2" level on this truck before installing a lift and the upper ball joints were shot at 64k miles, I only had the level installed for 40k of those miles

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Never ran a level over 2.5", simple geometry. The ball joints, cv joints, etc were engineered to run at the stock height. It's relatively safe to run up to a 2.5" level, but you're just putting that much more stress on your ball joints and cv joints, because they are operating at an angle they really weren't meant to operate at. I had a 2" level on this truck before installing a lift and the upper ball joints were shot at 64k miles, I only had the level installed for 40k of those miles

I have never had to replace ball joints on a GM HD truck, all were cranked up, all plowed snow, none ever received anything more then grease at each oil change, only truck to receive ball joints was my Super Duty at 90,000 miles, it received a complete front end rebuild...

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I'm going to just keep the stock shocks the way they are. Once they're pooched, I'll replace with a better quality of the right length. I haven't heard or felt anything that would indicate my front shocks are bottoming out.

 

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They might not be bottoming out but they are not operating in their zone, aftermarket shocks are the same factory length and still require the same shock extenders so you might as well install them and be done, you will have better dampening and rebound.

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Ok sorry for being such a pain in this stuff but im getting conflicting answers. I just spoke with the people that sell the kit and they said that the arms and the drop kit are going to return the truck to factory geometry and everything would b at stock angles. Now I know that they are there to sell the product so they will say whatever but he did seem knowledgeable. He said to call the lift company themselves if I have any concerns. I don't know if this is a factor but the kit does come with a 1 inch block for the rear and he said that helps out aswell. At this point in prob beating a dead horse so to speak but if I could get more input I'd appreciate it. Again sorry if I'm becoming a pain lol. Thanks

Whoever you spoke to lied to you, the most you can do is install 5/8in. front diff spacers, 5/8in. is not going to put the CV angles back to factory specs.

 

A level is a level, you can spend alot or a little to get the same results, I would rather piece a leveling kit together and only use the items needed to achieve the results, I have listed these items but here we go again.

 

 

Crank stock torsion bar bolts until you are happy with the height achieved, get allingment.

 

Want to try and get the CV angles closer to stock and not have to worry about blowing a CV axle and twisting the front end then install the 5/8in. front diff drop spacers.

 

Want to get the shocks back into the correct zone then add shock spacers, don't be surprised if you find the factory or "factory Rancho aka junk" shocks leaking when you are looking at them, you will be extremely happy with Bilstein 5100 shocks while using the shock spacers or better yet the Fox 2.0's.

 

Does the truck ride harsh and top out when hitting a bump? Then the upper control arms are hitting on the frame stops and you need to install aftermarket upper control arms and quality Spicer ball joints.

 

At this point you have done everything you can do to achieve the best possible ride out of a leveled truck.

 

Start down the list, stop when you are happy.

 

Send checks to my PayPal account after all I just saved all you a lot of money.

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