Jump to content

2016 SLT lights in 14/15 SLT/All Terrain almost done


Recommended Posts

Have any of you guys had an issue with moisture in these LEDs? I’ve seen that desiccant packs work well in the non-LEDs, can the turn signal socket be removed and a desiccant pack put in? Otherwise these are sealed units...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 9 months later...
Ok here goes, first off you all know the way you control LED'S right? there turned on and off 100 time a second, if you have a movie camera on your cell record when your DRLs are on, then play back and watch your lights flicker, now there is a tolerances on all DC power so what you may have is a car harness that is off more then the outer side, and yes there is a volt spike on the turn signal too.send him a harness that has a cap on that side too.

I know this is an old thread but do you know what size type of capacitor I should tap into my drl wire?
The drl cutoff circuit is intermittently not working and I’m going to remove it and just go back to straight harness. The drl doesn’t come back on after using the turn signal and I tried replacing the resistor and relay. Just going to remove it I prefer the drl staying on with the turn signal just world like to try fixed the flickering strobing drl on the cold start.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/17/2016 at 6:01 AM, zmnypit said:

Sorry I'm a little late, I've been in the Caribbean for a little over a week and just getting around to posting pictures. I know there was a lot of fuss of whether or not the SLT lights would so I bit the bullet and bought a used set to test. I got the lights and with the help of a fried who owns a 16 and you guys providing a pin out I was able to get the light working. The only issue I found was the DRL did not cut off when the turn signal was activated. Some may like this some may not. I however do not. When the sun is out full force and the DRL is at full brightness the LED turn signal is a little faint. Plus i'm picky and would like to stay close as factory options as possible. With all that being said I figured a switchback circuit inline with the adapter would cut the DRL off once the turn signal got power. Only problem is I have no clue how to build one so I reached out to GEN5 and they were more than helpful. I sent my light to Jarrod a little over 2.5 months ago and the process of building a harness began. For you guys that already have the SLT lights you can thank me later, JK. Anyways the harness for the 14-15 SLT is still being tweaked as its different from the SLE's but here you go.

 

Still have a couple kinks to work out but they work. Switchback circuit is being. No biggie Offer is on it as we speak.

 

SLT lights part numbers:

23506752k

On 5/17/2016 at 6:01 AM, zmnypit said:

Sorry I'm a little late, I've been in the Caribbean for a little over a week and just getting around to posting pictures. I know there was a lot of fuss of whether or not the SLT lights would so I bit the bullet and bought a used set to test. I got the lights and with the help of a fried who owns a 16 and you guys providing a pin out I was able to get the light working. The only issue I found was the DRL did not cut off when the turn signal was activated. Some may like this some may not. I however do not. When the sun is out full force and the DRL is at full brightness the LED turn signal is a little faint. Plus i'm picky and would like to stay close as factory options as possible. With all that being said I figured a switchback circuit inline with the adapter would cut the DRL off once the turn signal got power. Only problem is I have no clue how to build one so I reached out to GEN5 and they were more than helpful. I sent my light to Jarrod a little over 2.5 months ago and the process of building a harness began. For you guys that already have the SLT lights you can thank me later, JK. Anyways the harness for the 14-15 SLT is still being tweaked as its different from the SLE's but here you go.

 

Still have a couple kinks to work out but they work. Switchback circuit is being. No biggie Offer is on it as we speak.

 

SLT lights part numbers:

23506752

23506753

Hey nice build. I was wondering where you got the harness, I am thinking about doing this upgrade to my truck.

 

The harness

HLdyIKE.jpg

 

One of the issues

vJRJvor.jpg

 

Out with the old in with the new

0vZ81v1.jpg

 

Things were a little dirty so what better time to pressure wash

Kb3yP3b.jpg

 

We have some light

f37uXmO.jpg

 

Headlights work, thats a plus

4chgPrL.jpg

 

all done for now

hVCbuo6.jpg

qfYsmhX.jpg

e23506753

 

The harness

On 5/17/2016 at 1:06 PM, Arth said:

Here for info. Really wish I had LKQ connections!

HLdyIKE.jpg

 

One of the issues

vJRJvor.jpg

 

Out with the old in with the new

0vZ81v1.jpg

 

Things were a little dirty so what better time to pressure wash

Kb3yP3b.jpg

 

We have some light

f37uXmO.jpg

 

Headlights work, thats a plus

4chgPrL.jpg

 

all done for now

hVCbuo6.jpg

qfYsmhX.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Alright guys I have a couple sets of headlight (need to verify how many exactly) adapters left then that's all for now. Life has been so busy its a balancing act as of lately so probably wont be building anymore anytime soon. I will add a list below of all parts needed for anyone looking to this this themselves. All parts can be ordered through Mouser or Waytek and try to answer any questions. 

 

Headlight adapters: 

Old side (14-15)

38383 - Male Connector OEM part # 15326655

30472 - 20ga Male Terminals OEM part # 15304730

39036 - Yellow cable seal OEM part # 15366066

39039 - White cavity plug OEM part # 15305170

 

New Light side (16-18)

38411- Molex MX150 female connector OEM part # 33472-0801

30096 - Male terminal - OEM part # 3300-1002

 

Uxcell 10pcs 16v 4700uF capacitors (amazon)

20ga wire

50w 6ohm resistors (amazon)

1/2" wire loom

solder

 

Wire schematic: 

 

new light:

BK - Ground

YE - Low Beam

WH - High Beam

VT/GY - Parking Lamp

D-BU/WH - Turn Signal 

GY/D-BU - DRL

 

Old light: 

BK - Ground

YE - Low Beam

WH - High Beam

VT/GY - Parking lamp

D-BU/WH - Turn Signal

GY-D-BU - DRL

 

I'm not going to post a full detailed how to but basically you need roughly 12" of each wire then pin them in the correct slots. You can find the schematics on gmupfitter for the pin slots. The capacitor will go between the low beam and ground and the resistor between the turn signal and ground. 

 

If you plan on cutting the factory plug for the new one all you will need is the capacitor, resistor, new plug and the terminals.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...
7 hours ago, vu337 said:

Hello everyone,

 

Can someone tell me how to get in touch with zmnypit? I made a harness by his method but can't get the low beams to c ome on correctly.

He hasn't been back for over a year now. You might try starting a private conversation with him and maybe you will get lucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.