First brake job?

Back in a Bowtie · July 1, 2016

Forgive my ignorance, but what does "turning" a rotor do? they spin as the car moves, no?

It means cutting a fresh smooth surface

cgalpha08 · July 1, 2016

It means cutting a fresh smooth surface

So you pull the rotor off the hub....rotate it some degrees without spinning the hub and then put it back on?

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cgalpha08 · July 1, 2016

nvm, someone has explained it to me.

AT/GMC · July 1, 2016

The rotor is removed, usually by a shop tech, put on a machine which has a blade of sorts and takes off very thin amounts of metal while turning the rotor to expose a new surface for the pads to ride against. Youtube it,

there's numerous videos on how its done.

Marticus · July 2, 2016

Well, I purchased Bosch QuietCast rotors for the rears and the all new Wagner OEX Pads for the rear. The front I ordered Power Stop (G3000 grade) cross-drilled and slotted rotors with Power Stop Extreme Z36 pads to go along. So we shall see how it all performs in a few days. Hoping to change everything out on Wed or Thursday evening. I will let you all know how it goes.

Please let me know what you think about the slotted rotors and z36 pads. I own a shop and my supplier is pushing these. I would love the input.

I get a slight pulsation when the truck is fully loaded in the mountains and was thinking of trying these out. I'm only at 32k but in pittsburgh that is normal for brake replacement.

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Chris · July 2, 2016

Please let me know what you think about the slotted rotors and z36 pads. I own a shop and my supplier is pushing these. I would love the input.

I get a slight pulsation when the truck is fully loaded in the mountains and was thinking of trying these out. I'm only at 32k but in pittsburgh that is normal for brake replacement.

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I am about a month deep, but i like the z36 pads. I used AC Delco rotors with them.

Eddie 70 · July 2, 2016

Around town my brakes are fine. It's when coming off the interstate at high speed that I get all the vibration. My drivers front wheel gets dirty quicker than any other wheel. I'm coming up on a tire rotation this oil change and I'll give everything a good looking at. I saw nothing last rotation but that same wheel was still the first to get dirty so somethings up anyway.

15silver · July 2, 2016

slotted rotors - did that with ceramic pads (supposedly dustless pads)

the 'bite' when applying the brakes was very impressive. Much more aggressive than stock.

still got brake dust on the rims

you do get a whizzing sound of the pads over the slots when braking

Dnt · July 2, 2016

needed a set of brakes at 61,000 miles on a 2014 CC 4x4 Z71. Along with new brakes it also needed front shocks / tires so traded that succa in on a 2016 Denali.

Edited July 2, 2016 by MyFavTruck

Eddie 70 · July 10, 2016

Around town my brakes are fine. It's when coming off the interstate at high speed that I get all the vibration. My drivers front wheel gets dirty quicker than any other wheel. I'm coming up on a tire rotation this oil change and I'll give everything a good looking at. I saw nothing last rotation but that same wheel was still the first to get dirty so somethings up anyway.

This morning I changed my oil and rotated tires. I noticed on my front brakes drivers side, the caliper was angled. The top slide looks stuck all the way out and the lower slide is all the way in. Just went and bought pads and pins. Hopefully this will be the fix to the drivers side wheel always being black in no time and fix the vibration at higher speed braking.

Eddie 70 · July 10, 2016

Anyone know the torque specs around the calipers and slide pins?

clayp · February 9, 2017

I have got 61,xxx on my 2014 crew cab. My inboards are shot, outboards are low and the front rotors are grooved in a couple spots, right rear grooved on inboard side. I am actually on here to see if anyone has gotten cross drilled and slotted rotors and what brand they went with.. I am needing to order everything to replace it all this week, plans for the upcoming weekend require good breaks.

My driver's side inboard pad was down to the metal backing at 40k miles. The other 3 front pads were all 30-40% life left. Replaced all with Carquest Gold pads for $44. The asymmetrical wear is interesting

Sierra Jon · June 30, 2017

Well, I purchased Bosch QuietCast rotors for the rears and the all new Wagner OEX Pads for the rear. The front I ordered Power Stop (G3000 grade) cross-drilled and slotted rotors with Power Stop Extreme Z36 pads to go along. So we shall see how it all performs in a few days. Hoping to change everything out on Wed or Thursday evening. I will let you all know how it goes.

Please let me know what you think about the slotted rotors and z36 pads. I own a shop and my supplier is pushing these. I would love the input.

I get a slight pulsation when the truck is fully loaded in the mountains and was thinking of trying these out. I'm only at 32k but in pittsburgh that is normal for brake replacement.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

I have been running Z36 pads and Evolution drilled/slotted rotors on the fronts for a year. They are phenomenal. I tow a 7600lb TT so I wanted to upgrade them after the fronts warped. I have never looked back and the braking has improved as well. It's not a big brake kit so it's not a night and day difference but it's a noticable improvement.

I'm installing the rears (pads and rotors) today and can't get the darn rotor off. Is there something special I need to do to the e-brake or just muscle it off?

bndawgs · June 30, 2017

I have been running Z36 pads and Evolution drilled/slotted rotors on the fronts for a year. They are phenomenal. I tow a 7600lb TT so I wanted to upgrade them after the fronts warped. I have never looked back and the braking has improved as well. It's not a big brake kit so it's not a night and day difference but it's a noticable improvement.

I'm installing the rears (pads and rotors) today and can't get the darn rotor off. Is there something special I need to do to the e-brake or just muscle it off?

as long as the e brake is off, try banging it from the inside with a dead blow hammer.

Sierra Jon · June 30, 2017

as long as the e brake is off, try banging it from the inside with a dead blow hammer.

Thank you! Yea e brake was off. The new design is stupid. I'll do a thread/rant on it later lol.

The e-brake shoe rides about a half inch inside the rotor so that's a half inch of corrosion build up that you have to muscle through. Even with the e brake adjustment fully closed I broke the retainer clips holding the e-brake shoe in place on both sides of the truck. Brutal