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2014+ Silverado/Sierra Complete Audio Upgrade (No Loud Chimes)


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I have a 2014 GMC Sierra Denali I bought two years ago. With a new baby, it took a while to finally get to work on her. It did serve as an opportunity to see others put in their systems learn from their accomplishments and failures. Like several people here I wanted to upgrade the weak Bose speakers the truck came with and install something a more high end. I also wanted some more kick in the bass department and wanted it somewhat stealth.

There are many videos and threads on replacing door speakers so I won’t get into that too much.

 

I installed Focal Expert 165FX Component Speakers in my front doors. (Tweeter in pillar, crossover in the door itself) http://www.focal-america.com/product/ps-165-fx/

Focal Access 165AC 2 way speakers in the rear doors.

http://www.focal-america.com/product/165ac/

 

Stereo%20Install%201c.jpg

Stereo%20Install%202.jpgStereo%20Install%203.jpg

 

For the subwoofer, I went with JL Audio’s 12TW# thin line sub. This thing is awesome. Hits hard. I placed it in a Rhino Box that I then wrapped in dark brown pleather to match the bases of the front seats and sewed the edged to match the stitching.

http://www.jlaudio.com/12tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92185

The one concern I had coming in was the complaints from many people about loud chimes coming from all the speakers after installs. I some fixes where individuals only pulled the signals from the rear door speakers or eliminated the chimes completely. Neither was going to be an option for me. I found a schematic for the Bose amp that showed which pins powered which speakers.

BoseAmpOutputs.jpg

BoseAmpOutputs1.jpg

 

The chimes only came from the driver’s side dash speaker so I left it alone. I did however grab the outputs from the Bose amp that went to the front door speakers, rear door speakers, and sub.

To do this I pulled out the back seat and accessed the amp. The right two plugs are the outputs to the all the speakers in the truck. The schematic posted has the pin numbers and colors. I ran the Bose outputs to the JL Audio Fix82 which combined and level-matched automatically into a flat, full-range stereo signal. Differential-balanced inputs accept virtually any OEM analog audio signal, from low-voltage, line-level to high-power, amplified speaker-level outputs.

http://www.jlaudio.com/fix-82-car-audio-oem-integration-98100

It comes with a calibration CD and it takes all of 30 seconds to get all sounding good. Instructions in box. I left the front dash speakers connected and since I never used the driver’s dash speaker as an input to the JL Audio Fix82, there was no signal to be amplified.

 

Power for everything was ran from the battery through the grommet on the drivers side (many posts and vids on it) and I used the ignition power from the same power distribution box that has to be moved over to pull in the 4 gauge wire from the battery.

(Thank you for whoever found this out)

PinsDriverSideFootwell.jpg

 

Stereo%20Install%201.jpg

Stereo%20Install%209.jpgStereo%20Install%207.jpg

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With the Fix82, do you loose all fade and balance adjustments? Also does the volume knob on the OEM radio still control volume or do you have to add a master volume knob from the Fix82?

The balance left and right still work. The fade goes between the dash and door speakers which is what I wanted. The JLAudio Fix86 would have full fade between doors.

 

The knob on the radio/stealing wheel still work because the inputs to the Fix82 come out of the Bose amp so as I raise/lower volume it has amplifies or attenuates the signal going into the Fix82 and JL amp.

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Did you run new speaker wires to the front doors?

 

The balance left and right still work. The fade goes between the dash and door speakers which is what I wanted. The JLAudio Fix86 would have full fade between doors.

The knob on the radio/stealing wheel still work because the inputs to the Fix82 come out of the Bose amp so as I raise/lower volume it has amplifies or attenuates the signal going into the Fix82 and JL amp.

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Did you run new speaker wires to the front doors?

 

 

Yes, I ran new speaker wires from the JL Amp to the new speakers in the doors through the existing grommet in the door. I also ran new speaker wires from the output of the Bose amp to the processor (Fix82)

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  • 1 month later...

What are your impressions of the focal Experts. I have a set of diamond audio HEX up front right now but one of the mid drivers melted over the weekend thus I am in the market for a new set of components. Right now I am torn between the Focal's like you have or the JL Audio C3-650's

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I have a 2014 GMC Sierra Denali I bought two years ago. With a new baby, it took a while to finally get to work on her. It did serve as an opportunity to see others put in their systems learn from their accomplishments and failures. Like several people here I wanted to upgrade the weak Bose speakers the truck came with and install something a more high end. I also wanted some more kick in the bass department and wanted it somewhat stealth.

There are many videos and threads on replacing door speakers so I won’t get into that too much.

 

I installed Focal Expert 165FX Component Speakers in my front doors. (Tweeter in pillar, crossover in the door itself) http://www.focal-america.com/product/ps-165-fx/

Focal Access 165AC 2 way speakers in the rear doors.

http://www.focal-america.com/product/165ac/

 

Stereo%20Install%201c.jpg

Stereo%20Install%202.jpgStereo%20Install%203.jpg

 

For the subwoofer, I went with JL Audio’s 12TW# thin line sub. This thing is awesome. Hits hard. I placed it in a Rhino Box that I then wrapped in dark brown pleather to match the bases of the front seats and sewed the edged to match the stitching.

http://www.jlaudio.com/12tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92185

The one concern I had coming in was the complaints from many people about loud chimes coming from all the speakers after installs. I some fixes where individuals only pulled the signals from the rear door speakers or eliminated the chimes completely. Neither was going to be an option for me. I found a schematic for the Bose amp that showed which pins powered which speakers.

BoseAmpOutputs.jpg

BoseAmpOutputs1.jpg

 

The chimes only came from the driver’s side dash speaker so I left it alone. I did however grab the outputs from the Bose amp that went to the front door speakers, rear door speakers, and sub.

To do this I pulled out the back seat and accessed the amp. The right two plugs are the outputs to the all the speakers in the truck. The schematic posted has the pin numbers and colors. I ran the Bose outputs to the JL Audio Fix82 which combined and level-matched automatically into a flat, full-range stereo signal. Differential-balanced inputs accept virtually any OEM analog audio signal, from low-voltage, line-level to high-power, amplified speaker-level outputs.

http://www.jlaudio.com/fix-82-car-audio-oem-integration-98100

It comes with a calibration CD and it takes all of 30 seconds to get all sounding good. Instructions in box. I left the front dash speakers connected and since I never used the driver’s dash speaker as an input to the JL Audio Fix82, there was no signal to be amplified.

 

Power for everything was ran from the battery through the grommet on the drivers side (many posts and vids on it) and I used the ignition power from the same power distribution box that has to be moved over to pull in the 4 gauge wire from the battery.

(Thank you for whoever found this out)

PinsDriverSideFootwell.jpg

 

Stereo%20Install%201.jpg

Stereo%20Install%209.jpgStereo%20Install%207.jpg

Are you selling your stock bose?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • 3 months later...

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