Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Do you have the sa's running off an amp or the deck? If an amp what wattage are you hitting them with? I know the sa's are only 2.75 inch soooo...not much kick to them....but do you notice any extra kick from them?

I'm running pioneer comp sets in the front and I really can't put my finger on it...but I just don't feel the punch from them. 6.75 speakers and I know vs all the other brands I'm not on the upper scale but feel they lack a little. Maybe I need to do like you stated and fully deaden the door. I have them IB and foam ringed so the audio doesn't escape between the door and panel...looking forward to the build on your system .. Always curious on what ppl do to the same vehicle I have...

 

 

Oh on the sa's. Did you leave the cap on the sa or are you using a crossover for them?

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

No amp... yes it has extra kick.. but like you said it's just 2.75"... I left the cap that came on the SA's but I think it could benefit from a crossover. I never used an IB but I hear that could be causing the muffled sound... I also did not think about foam rings... where did you yours?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No amp... yes it has extra kick.. but like you said it's just 2.75"... I left the cap that came on the SA's but I think it could benefit from a crossover. I never used an IB but I hear that could be causing the muffled sound... I also did not think about foam rings... where did you yours?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you have or are getting 6.5 speakers you can use these. There are some vids on you tube on them

http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/store/p878/F.A.S.T._Rings__3-Piece_Foam_6.5"_Speaker_Enhancer_Kit.html

https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=T5fAQUcLuwM

 

Mine are 6.75 so the don't make that size. I went to home depot and got the foam strips you can seal windows with and made my own. A little crude but it does the job

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have or are getting 6.5 speakers you can use these. There are some vids on you tube on them

http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/store/p878/F.A.S.T._Rings__3-Piece_Foam_6.5"_Speaker_Enhancer_Kit.html

https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=T5fAQUcLuwM

 

Mine are 6.75 so the don't make that size. I went to home depot and got the foam strips you can seal windows with and made my own. A little crude but it does the job

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Yeah I was just looking at them on amazon... I got 6.75" also.. so lowes here I come. :) (home depot is too far away :P )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

why 6.75 in the front doors instead of 6x9? And why coax instead of 4 way? Honestly curious bc you seem to know way more about audio than i do lol

Edited by 14tungstenLT

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

why 6.75 in the front doors instead of 6x9? And why coax instead of 4 way? Honestly curious bc you seem to know way more about audio than i do lol

Personal preference mostly.. There is an argument for any way to go but here are my reasons.. circle speakers produce a more symmetrical sound. (I know this is subjective take if for what you will) also 6X9's tend to be more expensive. .. 4 Way vs 2 Way In a 4 Way you just get two extra tweeters.. that in almost all cases block the cone of the main speaker which in turn deflects the sound in unintended directions. I think the 4 way is more of a gimmick you know if 2 way is good 4 way must be better.. .and I use to think like that as well. I even have purchased 4 way speakers... but IMHO its not needed. Plus I got a good deal on the 2 pair I bought it was $60 cheaper than crutchfield.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Personal preference mostly.. There is an argument for any way to go but here are my reasons.. circle speakers produce a more symmetrical sound. (I know this is subjective take if for what you will) also 6X9's tend to be more expensive. .. 4 Way vs 2 Way In a 4 Way you just get two extra tweeters.. that in almost all cases block the cone of the main speaker which in turn deflects the sound in unintended directions. I think the 4 way is more of a gimmick you know if 2 way is good 4 way must be better.. .and I use to think like that as well. I even have purchased 4 way speakers... but IMHO its not needed. Plus I got a good deal on the 2 pair I bought it was $60 cheaper than crutchfield.

Awesome thanks for the info. I think I'm going to go a similar route.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

why 6.75 in the front doors instead of 6x9? And why coax instead of 4 way? Honestly curious bc you seem to know way more about audio than i do lol

Coax are perfectly fine. 4 ways are more hype than anything. If you get a coax with the woofer and a tweeter and a good reviewed set your good. Reason a went with components is to put the tweeter on the dash and have the lows...well down low lol. I am running front dash sa's, tweets right next to a pillars angled up about 45° aimed slightly at the windshield and the woofer in the door. Soon I will be adding a DSP so i am able to tune the system for the freqs each speaker is made for. Ex is the woofer 70~80 - 3800 hz, dash 250,300- 6-7000hz, and the tweet from 4000- up. Letting the speakers do their own job instead of taking everything in let's them work more efficiently and sound better. Plus I want time alignment for when I'm alone in the truck

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I might... later down the road get a DSP and or amp for the door speakers... I did not do component because i wanted factory look and easy of installation also the reason why I got the SA's because it was the closest in size to factory... btw it's not a perfect fit you got to wiggle it in there and use the screws that come with it because the screws that came out will not work.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I might... later down the road get a DSP and or amp for the door speakers... I did not do component because i wanted factory look and easy of installation also the reason why I got the SA's because it was the closest in size to factory... btw it's not a perfect fit you got to wiggle it in there and use the screws that come with it because the screws that came out will not work.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol I put em in tonight. Waiting til tomorrow to button everything up. Yea they are off by maybe 1-2 mm and that makes them a bit tight. I listened briefly to some songs and can tell the difference. Much better

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Want to give an update... thanks to Jeff5347 for the idea here are the install pictures of the foam rings..

 

Rear door speaker

 

2016-10-04%2015.11.21.jpg

 

2016-10-04%2015.13.30.jpg

 

Front door speaker

 

2016-10-04%2015.43.33.jpg

 

2016-10-04%2015.45.15%20HDR.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Want to give an update... thanks to Jeff5347 for the idea here are the install pictures of the foam rings..

 

Rear door speaker

 

2016-10-04%2015.11.21.jpg

 

2016-10-04%2015.13.30.jpg

 

Front door speaker

 

2016-10-04%2015.43.33.jpg

 

2016-10-04%2015.45.15%20HDR.jpg

Those look good. Where did you get the foam? Looks like it was a flat piece you cut in a circle. How did you get them to stick.

Def interested in how you got this done. Looks way nicer than mine lol

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those look good. Where did you get the foam? Looks like it was a flat piece you cut in a circle. How did you get them to stick.

Def interested in how you got this done. Looks way nicer than mine lol

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

Got it from Lowes.. its air conditioner weather stripping and I used loctite spray adhesive (Light 100). On the rear doors I used a razor knife and split it in half and the front I just used it as is, that's why its thicker.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

whats that do? focus the sound into the cabin instead of leaking between the door panels.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By 14AllTerrainSC
      See a lot of questions asked about this and not a lot of set info on the upgrade.  Hope this helps even anyone trying to set it up.
       
      **READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS AND WATCH ALL VIDEOS PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING PURCHASING OR INSTALLATION**
       
      Apple CarPlay / Android Auto functionality is not supported in any 2014-2015 (Many 2016) Silverado/Sierra’s. This is due to neither application being available from Google or Apple when these vehicles being built, therefore not an available option during these model years. The following instructions are designed to simplify the process as much as possible.
       
      Three things are required for this upgrade (ONE) Radio Module, (ONE) HMI Module, and (ONE) USB Hub 2016+.
       
      Search around for the modules, they are available for purchase from many different locations. EBay, totaled vehicles, junkyards, or other various websites to find them. AGAIN, if the part numbers are not listed below DO NOT purchase them.
       
       It is highly encouraged to not try and cut corners with purchasing part numbers of modules not listed as they cannot be flashed to work properly.
       
      **DISCONNECT THE BATTERY PRIOR TO INSTALLING FRESHLY UPDATED MODULES**
       
      TOOLS REQUIRED:
      Trim Removal tool
      10 mm Socket
      7 mm Socket
       
      PARTS REQUIRED
      USB HUB P/N 13519224 (BLACK) P/N 13509943 (WHITE)
       
      HMI Module
      USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH NAVIGATION. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N.
       
      84006103
      84048396
      84096817
      84156701
      81431943
      84296482
       
      USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITHOUT NAVIGATION. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N.
       
      84096815
      84156699
      84131941
      84296480
      84004948
      84048398
      84131941
      84296480
       
      RADIO MODULE
       
      USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH BOSE. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N.
       
      84062073
      84293226
      13506371
      23402903
       
      USE ONE OF THE BELOW P/N’S IF YOUR TRUCK CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITHOUT BOSE. ONLY REQUIRED TO PURCHASE ONE P/N.
       
      13506387
      23402909
      84062056
      84293243
       
      Once acquiring the parts you can now send them to be flashed. These modules will be flashed to your VIN and will then be plug and play. Copy the link and follow the prompts.  
       
      http://www.whiteautoandmedia.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=98&category_id=44&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=54
       
      If you have followed all the directions up and to this point, select yes for hardware match. You can chose if you would like the maps updated on your NAV if you so choose. You will be emailed your order number from WAMS, this is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. You will be required to ship your parts either FedEx or UPS, they will not accept packages from USPS. You will need to write your order number on the box to ensure your order is properly handled. Turn around is approximately one week from shipment to return. ONLY ship your (ONE) Radio Module and (ONE) HMI Module. Maintain your USB Hub.
       
      Once you have received your parts from WAMS you can begin installation. Disconnect your battery prior to installation.
       
      To install the radio module watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2MYuuyqLrs. For the purpose of this install start the video at 1:00. Stop the video at 2:04, the radio module is visible with a green connector on the far left. Simply begin disconnecting all of the connectors plugged into the module, once all are removed you can slide the module out of the dash. It is retained only by the tension of the cables plugged into it. Replace with your new module, you can now continue the video and finish putting the dash back together. Stop the video at 4:10.
       
      To install the HMI Module watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFe2gwlOsD4. Stop the video at 2:00. The module being described behind the crossbar is what you are replacing. Remove all connectors, the module is retained with a plastic clip on top. Installing the module along with the glove box, is self explanatory.
       
      Take note of the plastic tabs on the sides of the USB Hub you are preparing to install. Those tabs can be depressed with a dental pick and gradually removed out of place. Once removed, disconnect the harness and reconnect. Installation is now complete. You can now reconnect your battery and start your vehicle. Initial start up might take a few seconds to initialize, and temperature defaulting to 32 degrees is normal. Android Auto and Apple CarPlay require hardwire connection, so to test functionality it needs to be connected to the newly installed USB hub.    
       
      MVI Inc (https://www.gm-navigation.com/) offers kits and other customization options if the above is not something you feel comfortable acquiring on your own.
       
      Hope this helps, should be pretty cut and dry. There might be other methods, but this was the cheapest I discovered. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask.


    • By Artorius
      Hello, I have been helped by various posts on this forum for a long time but now joined mainly to ask some questions about upgrading my van. 
      Here is the scenario; my dad purchased the 2000 Chevy Express Conversion Van new from a dealership back in 2001. We used it as a family vehicle for many years but as us 'kids' grew up and married off, the van was left unused. So I purchased it from my dad and have been fixing it up. Whoever did the conversion was an idiot. They took an Express 1500 and made it into a conversion van that weighs 6,800# empty.
      *The front doors are so heavy we had to reweld the hinges because the factory spot welds were peeling off.
      *The van had front DRUM brakes which we changed out for a set of Brembo slotted disk brakes.
      *Changed rear axle ratio from whatever stock was down to 3:73
      *I upgraded the wheels from 15" to 17" and the tire size from 26" to 30.5" (yes the front tires rub sometimes, but it is 10X better in snow and rides better.).
      *I replaced the rear leaf springs with 3/4 ton leaf springs and coil-over heavy duty shocks.
      *Upgraded the full exhaust system from the manifolds back with 3" pipe and a high flow cat and Thrush muffler. 
      *Replaced the engine after I was a dumbA$$ and never refilled the coolant with coolant after having to add water due to a leak and the block froze and cracked. The replacement engine was taken from a 1999 Chevy Suburban.  
      *The transmission was replaced with a Monster Transmission brand 4L60-E rated up to 600hp and tuned for towing (quick firm shifts) and a heavy duty torque converter. 
      *Replaced all ball-joints and steering bushings. 
      *New "heavy duty" shocks for front suspension - which didn't change anything like I was hoping. 
       
       
      Anyway, now I want to upgrade the front suspension because it is SO SOFT that the van struggles to ride flat if the road has any bumps in it. 
      It is 2WD, so no front axle. 
       
      1: I want to upgrade the front and rear sway bars, can I just put 3/4-ton or 1-ton sway bars on it? Will they fit? 
       
      2: I want to upgrade the front springs and shocks with 3/4 ton springs and shocks. Is this possible? 
      2b: I would also be happy if anyone new of an air suspension or air-adjustable shocks that might work as well. I can't seem to find anything for front suspension for 2wd Chevy vans or trucks. 
       
      Thanks for any help. 
    • By rhino2020
      I have a 2014 1500 LTZ and was looking to upgrade to something with Apple car play. 
      I took it to a local shop this week and got my truck back yesterday and I’m disappointed with what they put in, on my drive home unit shut off twice and is laggy. Was a pioneer brand unit. I’m going to be requesting they remove it, Any suggestions what I can swap too? I’d like to retain my factory mic and usb functions as I lost those with the unit they recommended.
      I was looking at this not sure on quality though. Thanks! 
       
       
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stereo-12-1-Android-Vertical-Screen-Chevrolet-Silverado-2014-2018-Nav-Radio-GPS/173781842298?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095858%26meid%3Dbdb1e22d8bb44a738f1309a120affa2d%26pid%3D100904%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D3%26sd%3D282219624979%26itm%3D173781842298&_trksid=p2509164.c100904.m5276
    • By 2manymiatasguy
      Hi all. 
      New member here. Feels great to come back from the "dark side". After owning and loving my 07 Tahoe LT3 and then having a horrible experience with an 09 Tundra, I finally landed in the drivers seat of my lovely 15 GMC Sierra 1500 All Terrain.

      Ive looked through the various options and lurked on the forums for a while and I cant seem to find a solution to my problem that fits my needs. I'm aware of the kicker audio upgrades for the sierra, and custom (or pre-made) enclosures for under the rear seat. Unfortunately since I use my vehicle for work and frequently have expensive audio/visual equipment in the rear of my truck, a rear seat enclosure isn't an option. 
       
      While bose is a love hate brand, I had no issues with the stock bose system in my 07 Tahoe. The stereo in my all terrain is decent, but I would love a little low end grunt. I am aware of the dual voice coil nature of the bose sub, if you would even call it one. 
       
      Has anyone added the center console bose enclosure to a non-bose truck with the center console? Is it possible?
       
      Thanks
    • By ChuckTaylors27
      Hey guys, I want to work on my truck and upgrade it but i dont know what i should do. What are some things you have done to your engine and drive train to enhance performance and add durability?
       
       
      *I drive a 2014 LTZ 5.3
       
       

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    204,545
    Total Topics
    2,184,757
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    173,758
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BennyYurg
    Newest Member
    BennyYurg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   148 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,092 Guests (See full list)

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.