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WT trim with Color DIC, Steering Wheel Controls, IO5 Stereo retrofit.


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Maybe if you look at listed prices (sticker price) you are correct but with the discounts, rebates and dealing the $6,000 price comes down a lot especially when you can purchase the vehicle on the lot. I found out it was very hard to get a fully equipment regular cab WT/LS model in April where right now I could get an LT for the same price or a little less with more options. Usually a double cab has a $3,000 - $3,500 difference in sticker price over a regular cab but with the better rebates/discounts etc. on double cabs - the price is a lot less. GM and other dealerships are having a very hard time selling off their 2016 right now. This has been in the news. It all depends when you purchased the truck and how you worked out the price.

 

Installing these options has no increase trade in value and there is no warranty coverage because it is going to be looked as a WT/LS trim level truck. I know right now I could get an LT for far less than $6,000 sticker price and maybe some what a little over $2,000 but I also would get some more additional options other that is mentioned here as well. There would be also a savings on your additional labor time (which is not counted) and possible issues or problems with your warranty.

 

If I was looking for a second hand truck, I only look for a truck with the regular stock items for that trim level. I don't need any future trouble. Some dealerships mark these improvements down on the trade in as well.

 

I don't see a $4,000 being ahead - maybe a little but a loss in the trade in because it is still a WT trim level truck.

 

 

You have your opinion, which you are entitled to but it doesn't have any value in this thread. This is something that people do want to do for what ever reason, which has no effect on you. You are comparing it to extended cabs and crew cabs to justify that spending $2000 on a WT trim isn't worth saving some money. Even with all of the mods I have on my truck, look at my signature, the list is extensive, I don't have $30k in this truck.

 

Instead of coming into a technical thread to be a naysayer why don't you waste your own time trying to find me a new, on the lot RCSB that has all these options for less than $30k. Then you can come in here and complain about something that has absolutely NOTHING to do with you or your truck.

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You have your opinion, which you are entitled to but it doesn't have any value in this thread. This is something that people do want to do for what ever reason, which has no effect on you. You are comparing it to extended cabs and crew cabs to justify that spending $2000 on a WT trim isn't worth saving some money. Even with all of the mods I have on my truck, look at my signature, the list is extensive, I don't have $30k in this truck.

 

Instead of coming into a technical thread to be a naysayer why don't you waste your own time trying to find me a new, on the lot RCSB that has all these options for less than $30k. Then you can come in here and complain about something that has absolutely NOTHING to do with you or your truck.

 

The point is you didn't save $4,000 unless you paid sticker price and you spent $2,000 (labor cost?) which in most cases is not going to increase the value of a WT truck at trade in. The question is if it is worth it? In your case it is and it appears you did a good job. People have to think it out if it is really worth the cost and maybe shop around to get their best price on a vehicle with these item. Sorry if you don't agree. End of conversation.

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So I found the clock spring that was categorized as "Electrical, Air Bag Components" and it shows a Clock Spring for 2016 LTZ - "Clockspring - Modules & Sensors, W/HTD Strng Wheel". For $48.81?! Others are like $140-$150. The diagrams appear to be the same. Curious are the dramatic price differences.

 

 

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When I search for the same item under "Steering" categories, they all show discontinued there. Really weird.

 

 

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Yeah, that seems very cheap. I think I found mine for around $110.

 

Lemme guess -- you found part number 23381964?

 

I have a '14, and while there was originally a different part number for the heated clockspring, this one replaced it in late '15 or sometime this year. Or so the GM EPC tells me. I paid roughly $55 shipped for mine, and while I have yet to do the heated swap (hopefully this weekend), the part looks EXACTLY like what everyone else has used. Should work fine.

Edited by GMMediumDutyMQ
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Lemme guess -- you found part number 23381964?

 

I have a '14, and while there was originally a different part number for the heated clockspring, this one replaced it in late '15 or sometime this year. Or so the GM EPC tells me so. I paid roughly $55 shipped for mine, and while I have yet to do the heated swap (hopefully this weekend), the part looks EXACTLY like what everyone else has used. Should work fine.

Yep. That's the exact part #. Found under Electrical/Air Bag Components. If I searched under "Steering Wheel", another discontinued, more expense clock spring comes up. I guess I'll take my chances with Part #23381964. Thanks for the affirmation of what part you have.

 

 

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Edited by pgamboa
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Yep. That's the exact part #. Found under Electrical/Air Bag Components. If I searched under "Steering Wheel", another discontinued, more expense clock spring comes up. I guess I'll take my chances with Part #23381964. Thanks for forge affirmation of what you have.

 

 

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Yeah. I don't think the clocksprings show up in the EPC under steering any longer -- only electrical/ air bag. Should be fine -- I have it in hand and it seems to be just what we need. Will keep you posted after this weekend.

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Very cool. Looking forward to it. My wheel should be arriving this week but we just moved into our house today. I'm hoping the Clockspring and wheel are the only two things needed. If so, this upgrade will be $110 for me.

 

 

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Edited by pgamboa
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is that just the radio module or the wireing?

 

The IO3 doesn't have the HMI module, and some of the wiring that goes along with it. You can upgrade the IO3 to an IO4/5/6 and it will add in that module, use the google machine and search for Silverado IO3 upgrade and a couple of options will pop up.

 

If you do that should be able to do the retrofit of the rest as you tie this stuff in at the A11 radio module.

 

But seeing as how I didn't upgrade from an IO3 I cannot say for certain that this will work. So, that is my disclaimer.

Edited by Darth_Vader
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Yeah. I don't think the clocksprings show up in the EPC under steering any longer -- only electrical/ air bag. Should be fine -- I have it in hand and it seems to be just what we need. Will keep you posted after this weekend.

 

I'll be interested to see if this is true, and bummed I over payed if so. It looks like the stock clock spring with the extra two wire harness on both sides of the unit. I just extended the column side and ran it over to the driver side fuse block and tied it in with a fuse tap as opposed to landing it in the stock harness. Though I am using the existing fuse slot for the heated wheel, which oddly enough already had a 7.5 amp fuse in it. I haven't found anything else that runs off that circuit though I haven't dug very deep.

 

Let me know if you have any questions and thanks for chiming in to clear up the clock spring questions!

Edited by Darth_Vader
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Finally, after some shipping issues, got the pins in to permanently install the wiring into the gauge cluster connector.

 

These are the pins for the factory connector:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011CQCI96/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

These are the style of crimpers you need to properly crimp this type of pin:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I've attached some pictures showing the connectors crimped on, the inside crimps are designed to hit the wire while the outside ones grab insulation, after that they just click in to place in the harness connector. This is what they look like when properly done:

post-148500-0-58193200-1476487512_thumb.jpg

 

And here they are with the connector reassembled, the grey part just slides off the end, use a small flat head and you can easily separate the two to get to the pins:

post-148500-0-58483100-1476487522_thumb.jpg

 

Finished product working like a charm:

post-148500-0-88131600-1476487529_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-58193200-1476487512_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-58483100-1476487522_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-88131600-1476487529_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-58193200-1476487512_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-58483100-1476487522_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-88131600-1476487529_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-58193200-1476487512_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-58483100-1476487522_thumb.jpg

post-148500-0-88131600-1476487529_thumb.jpg

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Finally, after some shipping issues, got the pins in to permanently install the wiring into the gauge cluster connector.

 

These are the pins for the factory connector:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011CQCI96/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

These are the style of crimpers you need to properly crimp this type of pin:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I've attached some pictures showing the connectors crimped on, the inside crimps are designed to hit the wire while the outside ones grab insulation, after that they just click in to place in the harness connector. This is what they look like when properly done:

attachicon.gif20161013_141549_resized.jpg

 

And here they are with the connector reassembled, the grey part just slides off the end, use a small flat head and you can easily separate the two to get to the pins:

attachicon.gif20161013_141807_resized.jpg

 

Finished product working like a charm:

attachicon.gif20161014_135210_resized.jpg

Yes! Kudos for tackling a job like this. This is a complex job especially not knowing it'll work and investing $ into parts. So you only needed to send your cluster to WAMS and not the BCM? What was the turnaround for that? How long was your truck down for while waiting? That's my only hesitation with sending a BCM or Cluster to WAMS for programming. Nice Work...Nice work!

 

 

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Yes! Kudos for tackling a job like this. This is a complex job especially not knowing it'll work and investing $ into parts. So you only needed to send your cluster to WAMS and not the BCM? What was the turnaround for that? How long was your truck down for while waiting? That's my only hesitation with sending a BCM or Cluster to WAMS for programming. Nice Work...Nice work!

 

iSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

IPC only and you'd be supplying a new IPC anyhow so shipping yours isn't an issue, there is no downtime etc.

Edited by GTPprix
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