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HeliMark

Service trailer brake

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Just read recently in an article about the "advanced safety systems" (sarcasm off) that have recently been introduced.

 

From the Toronto Star:

 

Has anyone heard of the brake switch failing (well maybe yes seeing as everything is made so cheaply anymore)? In 40 years of driving I think I've replaced 1 GM "multifunction switch" & a floor mounted dimmer switch on my '82 GMC. The high mounted brake light on my Monte is pooched since the bulb on it burned out & fused itself to the socket.

 

I would hope that THERE IS an override switch other wise a driver could be stuck anywhere w/ a "dead" vehicle.

 

 

I had this problem in my '10 F150. Except it wasn't the light it was the relay near the steering column. There is an unlock switch, at least on that truck, that will allow you to drive until you get it fixed. $30 and 10 minutes and I was good to go

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Whenever I've had that message it's been poor connection between the truck and trailer plugs.

 

 

this. has happened a few times. have to make sure the connection is good

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To those that have towed w/ multiple trucks, does the trailer socket on the K2XX seem problematic or are you having the same number of alerts as earlier trucks?

 

I haven't towed w/ my new truck yet, but never had any trailer wiring related messages when towing w/ my '04 or '11 trucks.

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To those that have towed w/ multiple trucks, does the trailer socket on the K2XX seem problematic or are you having the same number of alerts as earlier trucks?

 

I haven't towed w/ my new truck yet, but never had any trailer wiring related messages when towing w/ my '04 or '11 trucks.

Yes.

 

they seem to be 'loose' to me.

 

Extra care being sure the the contacts on both truck and trailer plugs are clean will help.

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Hey all, I believe I have an actual fix. Before I couldn't get 30 miles without issues. I just got done trailering over 1k without a hiccup ( knock on wood). When I installed my 5er setup I installed a curt OEM in bed plug. If you're familiar these are plug and play and allow you to use your factory bumper plug still as well. My dealer was adamant it was the plug and wanted $200 bucks and another $50 to install. We made a deal that I would pay 1/2 and if it didn't work I'd be refunded. Well a factory GM 5er wiring harness has thus far worked. I was sceptical because it looked identical to the curt plug but is actually made by pollak. I also did a side by side comparison and the pollak receives the trailer plug much tighter than curt. The curt is actually sloppy. I hope this helps as I had all the same stabilitrac, service trailer brake ABS and ultimately loosing trailer braking and so far so good. Take care.

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On the water in the plug thing, anyone consider using some dialectric grease in their conectors? I like using dialectric grease in all my tailer electrical couplers from pickup on up thru commercial truck varieties.

Edited by Cowpie

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You realize that dielectric grease is non-conducting?

 

It's great for preventing corrosion, but it shouldn't be on the conducting surfaces.

Edited by redwngr

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You realize that dielectric grease is non-conducting?

 

It's great for preventing corrosion, but it shouldn't be on the conducting surfaces.

I'd be afraid of its dust/sand attraction qualities.

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On my 1500 I had ti happen once....but it was my fault I had not put the plug in all the way...I realized this when my trailer lights weren't working. Got out of the truck to check but did not shut the engine off.....I realized I had no trailer brakes pretty quickly.7K lb load on a 1500 you know if the TB aren't working. Stopped shut the truck off and restarted all came back up and rode two hour home no problem.

 

As for stabilitrac....don't discount it to quickly. It saved my ass on the highway once. Same 7K trailer.....highway speed 70-75mph came around corner there was an accident off in the median and the idiot in front slammed his brakes on (not necessary as everything was off the road) and had come to almost a complete stop. I'm not sure I would have stopped in time or maintained control without the tuck doing its thing. YMMV

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I would do not use the dielectric grease on the front part of the plug, although when the contacts scrap during the connection, they should displace the grease. Due to the water intrusion I was getting, after all the connections in the rear of the plug were done, it was filled with the dielectric grease and closed up. Should not have any more water issue's, and I just make sure when I am plugging in, that it is dry and clean. Otherwise towel and/or contact cleaner, and some sand paper.

 

As far as the stabilitrac, if it is a true failure of the system, the truck is suppose to go into the limp mode. With my "service stabilitrac" notifications, it hasn't gone into the limp mode. I sometimes think that when I get some of the notifications, the truck throws a couple more in just for fun...

 

Mark

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As far as the stabilitrac, if it is a true failure of the system, the truck is suppose to go into the limp mode. With my "service stabilitrac" notifications, it hasn't gone into the limp mode. I sometimes think that when I get some of the notifications, the truck throws a couple more in just for fun...

 

Mark

BTDT. The electronics in the transfer case of my 2011 started to crap out. DIC displayed Service Four Wheel Drive, Service Stabilitrac and Service Traction Control (& went into limp home mode for good measure). Great when you're a day away from home w/ a TT behind you.

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How you guys get this fix?

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Pull fuse number three and be done with stabilicrap. No limp mode only you driving the truck without a computer trying to guess what it should do. Sorry but that computer doesnt know what to do on ice and cost me a trip into the ditch that I could have avoided 😡

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So I’m reviving this thread because I had a very similar issue just recently and the fix was simple so hopefully it’ll help you guys.

 

My ‘17 Sierra 3500 started with the quite common door ajar issue, I tried slamming it, playing with the accordion wire harness in the door frame, I even took the door panel off and pulled apart all the connectors to see if there were loose or frayed wires or possible corrosion. Pulled out a multimeter and checked everything; all good. None of the above fixed my problem.

 

Then I started getting the “service trailer brake” and “trailer disconnected” randomly. Sometimes with a trailer attached, sometimes without. Seemed odd to me, but I didn’t even bother troubleshooting.

 

Next I started getting “Service Stabilitrak” randomly and sporadically.

 

Ok ok now I’m thinking WTF is going on here. So I disconnected both batteries and pulled every single fuse and reset it (checked to see if it was popped in the process). I didn’t even check to see which fuse I pulled, just pull, inspect, replace.

 

The length of the whole battery and fuse process took me about 2 beer, throwing a ball for the dog periodically, playing referee for two toddlers who love to fight and VIOLLA... the door ajar, trailer brake, and stabiltrak all fixed in one swoop.

 

Hope this helps the next guy.

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