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My 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 2500


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Been having a heck of a time getting the ABS light to go off in the dash. The tech I know replaced the sensor and the wiring harness, ohm tested every wire in the harness, even put a new body connector to the new harness/connector plug. He said he's done everything he can at this point and he thinks it the electronic brake control module which is like $700-1000 from GM. My question is would buying an aftermarket or even a refurbished one for a fraction of the price be ok?

Ive found these part numbers so far:

DORMAN 599707

ACDELCO 19244888

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Been having a heck of a time getting the ABS light to go off in the dash. The tech I know replaced the sensor and the wiring harness, ohm tested every wire in the harness, even put a new body connector to the new harness/connector plug. He said he's done everything he can at this point and he thinks it the electronic brake control module which is like $700-1000 from GM. My question is would buying an aftermarket or even a refurbished one for a fraction of the price be ok?

Ive found these part numbers so far:

DORMAN 599707

ACDELCO 19244888

Yep the module is the problem. They have failed in all of these trucks. The ABS light in my 01 HD has been on from pretty much since it was new

 

 

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Yep the module is the problem. They have failed in all of these trucks. The ABS light in my 01 HD has been on from pretty much since it was new

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's the exact same thing he told me haha. He also told me he used the tech 2 on it and all the wheel speed sensors were showing the correct mph except the right front where he put all the new stuff on and checked the wiring harness to make him almost positive that its the ABS module thats bad. I'm anal with lights on in the dash and things not working properly. If I can snag one one for a couple hundred bucks I'll just have him fix it.

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Justychevytrucks.com . Try a used one. I think the problem is the prop valves used actually.

Note , your truck is a light duty 3/4 ton .when asking for stuff. ( Looks like it anyways)

Yeah from things Ive been it seems to be the light duty. When I first made this post I thought it was a HD until I did some reading lol

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So earlier today while driving around I got these:

P0157 O2 sensor circuit low voltage Bank 2 Sensor 2. Which is after the catalytic converter which my buddy is going to tune out.

P0141 O2 Sensor heater circuit Bank 1 sensor 2. Since its post catalytic converter this is going to get tuned out as well.

P0174 System too lean bank 2. I was told these truck have a tendency of the intake manifold gaskets going bad so dad and i sprayed some starting fluid around the intake and it never raised the idle rpm. Could the truck already being somewhat warm before we took it in our garage to spray the intake with starting fluid kind of disguise the intake gaskets going bad? We are going to take some starting fluid tomorrow after the truck has set all night and see what happens.

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Well we narrowed it down to a mass air flow sensor. On my phone I can watch real-time data and with the mass air flow plugged in the Long Term Fuel Trim 1 and 2 was elevated by quite a bit. Unplugged the MAF, the values went down to around normal. So I cleaned the MAF really good and plugged it back in, it worked correctly for about 20 seconds then went back up into the elevated readings. So the MAF is bad and I bought a new Delphi on rockauto

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For the ABS module cut the module lid off you will find a row of pins that stick up to the pump connector. Re-solder the pins also inspect for any other broken solder joints RTV the lid back on and you'll be good to go.

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For the ABS module cut the module lid off you will find a row of pins that stick up to the pump connector. Re-solder the pins also inspect for any other broken solder joints RTV the lid back on and you'll be good to go.

THIS! I've fixed a few for this. This is typically the cause of the ransom and sporadic ABS/ brake light.

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For the ABS module cut the module lid off you will find a row of pins that stick up to the pump connector. Re-solder the pins also inspect for any other broken solder joints RTV the lid back on and you'll be good to go.

Probably a dumb question but what do you mean cut the lid off? I've really really dealt with these truck before lol, I'm more of a Camaro guy lol. I'm planning on buying a used one dirt cheap and seeing if that helps fix my problem.

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Probably a dumb question but what do you mean cut the lid off? I've really really dealt with these truck before lol, I'm more of a Camaro guy lol. I'm planning on buying a used one dirt cheap and seeing if that helps fix my problem.

 

 

The top of the module has a lid thats 90% of the time held on with black RTV. The other 10% have 5 bolt/screws holing it on along with the RTV.

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post-160518-0-52771100-1482544434.jpg

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Well I'm having some sort of intake leak on the passenger side of the intake towards the front of the engine. We've tried using 2 different gaskets sets, and same problem. RPMs increase when starting fluid sprayed around the intake and it has a constant surging idle. Any other ideas to help fix this?

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We are going to give it another look over tomorrow and see why the intake isn't sealing properly. Maybe the steam line got moved over a little bit or something. I have no idea. If we can't get it work I'll be picking up a lq9 intake without the egr and time fully get that to work. Then make a block off plate for the headers. Any advise on getting the stock intake to fit and seal?

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