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Bose Subwoofer replacement!


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Stealthbox was a HUGE upgrade from stock. Shakes the seats, console, rear view, etc. I’m sure the $1200 dual 10” rear stealthbox would hit harder. 

 

I am am not happy with the small air leak my $600 retail stealthbox had from the factory. Been kicked around with support. Yes I could just seal it myself but a $600 premium JL product should not have an air leak which sounds like a rattle. 

 

If anyone orders this test before installing. 

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FYI Stealthbox is fiberglass

Factory bose is plastic

running JL with recommended xd300/1v2 amp

Stock bose 6” sub vs 10” JL Stealthbox for under center console 

B212DE48-D9E4-4B7B-9492-7CCB6BFA8999.jpeg

Edited by 2009GMC
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11 minutes ago, truckmann said:

The Stealth box looks awesome but way too expensive and probably overkill for what I want.

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I purchased through rakuten for 550 - 15% sitewide coupon. Which greatly helped the wallet pain. I checked to make sure the actual seller was authorized for warranty. Even though their support (so far) leaves a lot to be desired 

Edited by 2009GMC
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6 minutes ago, tmkilburn said:

Can anyone give me the rundown on center console removal to replace the factory bose sub? Bout to install an L7 8 and would like to avoid breaking any clips which I am prone to do due in frustration on occasion. 

 

This video is on a jump seat to console swap, but it looks to be the most helpful one I've seen. 

 

 

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Alright got my console removed. Wasn't that bad. Anyone else wanting to pull the console to add a sub this is what you need to do. 

1. Lift the console lid and pry up the the console trim that holds the cup holders and outlets. I used a screwdriver and pried it at the locations below as seen on youtube videos.
2014-GMC-Sierra-Denali-1500-Crew-Cab-center-console-02.jpg.8d312dbbee0a00e17e93811d0a437941.jpg

 

2. With the trim removed there will be 2 10mm bolts exposed. Remove them.

3. Disconnect all the connectors on the trim piece as well as the larger harness and the brown USB harness behind the trim piece. 

4. Remove the map pocket trim on either side of the console. They just pull straight out. You may have to move the seats around to get them completely out. With the map holders removed 1 bolt on either side will be exposed. 15mm I think.

5. Move your seats all the way forward and at the back on either side of the console near the carpet are 2 plastic cover. Pry them open from the back with a thin screwdriver. Behind the covers are 2 more 15mm bolts. Remove them.

 

At this point you should be able to slide the console back. I had to lift mine up a bit but it should be completely free

 

Edited by tmkilburn
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  • 4 weeks later...
16 hours ago, TripleBGM said:

I may need to do this.  I'm not impressed with the bose system.

Me either... I'm wondering if my bose sub is even working. With the volume up, you can feel the doors vibrating, but feel absolutely nothing when you touch the console. I would think if the sub was working your would atleast feel a little bit.

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Me either... I'm wondering if my bose sub is even working. With the volume up, you can feel the doors vibrating, but feel absolutely nothing when you touch the console. I would think if the sub was working your would atleast feel a little bit.


Same exact situation here on my ‘18 HC. Trying to decide between an 8” or a 10”. Something tells me that a 10” that close to my ears is going to be too much bass


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Ended up buying the center console box off ebay with the kicker comp 8". I haven't sold my 10" single box that goes under the rear seat yet, but ebay had a 15% off coupon so I decided to buy it. Here's a few pics of the install. I haven't wired it to my amp yet cause I have to remove my backseat to get to it. It was a little hot outside today with a heat index of 108 so I'll finish tomorrow. It took me about an hour and a half to install cause I was taking a few water breaks.
Here's a few pics of the console removed, the stock Bose sub, the new box with 8" sub next to the stock Bose, the 10" sub I removed compared to the others, and the new 8" installed before I put the console back in.42f7e3b4ad8232a97da7487c130bbc63.jpg4e492859dc2316718c9b7a9f9ccd8898.jpg5364e65ad4729206f569de094d742408.jpg3e2cbcd96c831a1522b3241cd33f116e.jpg

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Ended up buying the center console box off ebay with the kicker comp 8". I haven't sold my 10" single box that goes under the rear seat yet, but ebay had a 15% off coupon so I decided to buy it. Here's a few pics of the install. I haven't wired it to my amp yet cause I have to remove my backseat to get to it. It was a little hot outside today with a heat index of 108 so I'll finish tomorrow. It took me about an hour and a half to install cause I was taking a few water breaks.
Here's a few pics of the console removed, the stock Bose sub, the new box with 8" sub next to the stock Bose, the 10" sub I removed compared to the others, and the new 8" installed before I put the console back in.42f7e3b4ad8232a97da7487c130bbc63.jpg4e492859dc2316718c9b7a9f9ccd8898.jpg5364e65ad4729206f569de094d742408.jpg3e2cbcd96c831a1522b3241cd33f116e.jpg

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Nice. That is helpful to see. Thanks. Does the wiring look like it will be largely a direct replacement (once you get your amp in there)?

On the back wall are you going to run new power or share with the existing amp?


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Nice. That is helpful to see. Thanks. Does the wiring look like it will be largely a direct replacement (once you get your amp in there)?

On the back wall are you going to run new power or share with the existing amp?


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I'm just reusing my existing amp. I'm removing my 10" under the rear seat so I can put my rear storage back in. All I have to do is connect the speaker wire from the sub to the amp, but I have to remove the rear seats to get to it. While they're out I'll also be able to adjust the amp for the new sub.

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