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How many miles are on your 2014+


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On 6/9/2022 at 3:11 PM, 2015 High Miler said:

2015 SLT CC 231,****** miles  on 3rd trans. engine has been really good though, except for I have an exhaust smell in my cabin.  dealer that did the 1st trans swap says it was cracked manifold and/or gasket. I put headers on and have had it smoke tested and still have the smell at idle. Liked the truck so much I bought a 2019 2500HD with 66,000 miles on it.  Aside form the trans issue, it has been stellar. Even the interior has help up well. knock on wood....

trucks 2.jpg

6.2 or 5.3? 6 speed or 8 speed?

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  • 1 month later...

2014 5.3 4x4, 6 speed, crew cab, 6.5' (standard bed), 2.5" level installed around 65k

 

275550 as of today.

 

2 A/C condensers

on 3rd transmission (factory went at 120kish, replacement went out 94k later was replaced under warranty) on the warranty trans now with approx 65-70k on it.

front rotors and pads changed 2 times.

rear rotors and pads changed 1 time

2 starters replaced

plugs and wires replaced at 180k

 

only mods has been 2.5" level to front only (no rear blocks)

K&N air filter around 140k

 

Currently have (and been there for over a year)  ABS, Traction Control dummy light

 

Was looking hard at trading truck back in late 19 early 20 but just didn't find the right truck at the time.  In a way I wish I had found the truck as I'd have gotten a decent deal and in a way I'm glad I didn't as I'd be 50k in debt to a damn truck where as now I owe nothing on a truck.

 

 

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7 hours ago, bullet225ho said:

2014 5.3 4x4, 6 speed, crew cab, 6.5' (standard bed), 2.5" level installed around 65k

 

275550 as of today.

 

2 A/C condensers

on 3rd transmission (factory went at 120kish, replacement went out 94k later was replaced under warranty) on the warranty trans now with approx 65-70k on it.

front rotors and pads changed 2 times.

rear rotors and pads changed 1 time

2 starters replaced

plugs and wires replaced at 180k

 

only mods has been 2.5" level to front only (no rear blocks)

K&N air filter around 140k

 

Currently have (and been there for over a year)  ABS, Traction Control dummy light

 

Was looking hard at trading truck back in late 19 early 20 but just didn't find the right truck at the time.  In a way I wish I had found the truck as I'd have gotten a decent deal and in a way I'm glad I didn't as I'd be 50k in debt to a damn truck where as now I owe nothing on a truck.

 

 

How often do you change your oil? What’s your brand? That would probably be useful info especially making it past 150K miles.

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Has anyone had the 6 speed transmission make it past 120-150 thousand? Seems like most go out around that mileage. I'm at 95,000 starting to get nervous cause I will still be driving it around 120,000 or so.

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Generally speaking a vehicle that’s 6-7 years old should be paid for. Rebuilding a transmission amounts to a couple payments. Nobody likes major expenses. It’s still cheaper than on going payments. Six months ago we put 3K in my wife’s car. It amounted to major maintenance and a starter. We’ve already got our money back versus monthly payments. Most people get a new ride because of want not need. I’ve definitely been guilty of that. 

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3 hours ago, 15 Z71 said:

Has anyone had the 6 speed transmission make it past 120-150 thousand? Seems like most go out around that mileage. I'm at 95,000 starting to get nervous cause I will still be driving it around 120,000 or so.

 

159,008 on mine and works perfectly. 

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23 hours ago, KARNUT said:

Generally speaking a vehicle that’s 6-7 years old should be paid for. Rebuilding a transmission amounts to a couple payments. Nobody likes major expenses. It’s still cheaper than on going payments. Six months ago we put 3K in my wife’s car. It amounted to major maintenance and a starter. We’ve already got our money back versus monthly payments. Most people get a new ride because of want not need. I’ve definitely been guilty of that. 

 

Sometimes, a PIA is just a PIA.  Last week, my mom's '09 VW Tiguan with EA888 engine (100k miles) tossed its drive belt.  I was planning on replacing the belt and tensioner for her (replacing the belt tensioner on that chassis requires dropping the engine 🤬), but my dad found the AC compressor seized.  The local shop then found the system full of metal.  $3400 later, they have a new AC in a 13 year old car.  Per my recommendation about continuing to throw good money after bad (the car looks and runs like new and is exceptionally maintained, as per me, but every 100k mile German is going to cost $2k/yr in maintenance unless you have the cheat codes), they went down to the local Ford Dealer (we only have Ford and Chrysler dealers in my hometown... I pushed for Chrysler, but they had nothing on the lot of interest) and wrote a check for a loaded Escape on the spot.  I'll sell the VW for them and probably get close to $9; dad's military and veterans discounts got $2k knocked off (which is great today).  They sprung for the extended warranty, so it'll be covered for the next 10 years until they're ready to trade up.  My dad is only 69, but after a lifetime of skinned knuckles, he's not planning on doing head gaskets or turbo replacements after 79.

Edited by 16LT4
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10 minutes ago, 16LT4 said:

100k mile German is going to cost $2k/yr in maintenance

 

So $167 per month?

What can I buy for $167 a month?

Yea....I'd be keeping it.

Just say'n

:P 

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55 minutes ago, 16LT4 said:

 

Sometimes, a PIA is just a PIA.  Last week, my mom's '09 VW Tiguan with EA888 engine (100k miles) toss its drive belt.  I was planning on replacing the belt and tensioner for her (replacing the tensioner required dropping the engine), but my dad did found the AC compressor seized.  The local shop found the system full of metal.  $3400 later, they have a new AC in a 13 year old car.  Per my recommendation about continuing to throw good money after bad (the car looks and runs like new and is exceptionally maintained, as per me, but every 100k mile German is going to cost $2k/yr in maintenance unless you have the cheat codes), they went down to the local Ford Dealer (we only have Ford and Chrysler dealers in my hometown... I pushed for Chrysler, but they had nothing on the lot of interest) and wrote a check for a loaded Escape on the spot.  I'll sell the VW for them and probably get close to $9; dad's military and veterans discounts got $2k knocked off (which is great today), so the car is a few retirement checks after the fact.  They sprung for the extended warranty, so it'll be covered for the next 10 years until they're ready to trade up.  My dad is only 69, but after a lifetime of skinned knuckles, he's not planning on doing head gaskets or turbo replacements after 79.

My wife’s Genesis had a 10-100K bumper to bumper. It’s been paid for 7 years and still looks almost new. The right color helps. So dropping 3K at 120k miles was a no brainer. My 02 Avalanche cost me 6700$ ttl. So far 200$ for AC work. I had it 2 1/2 years. Liking a vehicle plays a role. As does pride in your vehicle. The only way I’d buy a new vehicle is if I can get a warranty equal to the Hyundai warranty. I’m not going to be in the market for awhile. I’m too used to deals. 

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9 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

So $167 per month?

What can I buy for $167 a month?

Yea....I'd be keeping it.

Just say'n

:P 

 

Headaches, breakdowns and time lost cost far more than that.  On that car, there isn't a separate AC belt, so the car was undriveable without the belt.  U-haul to the rescue to get it to the local Euro Indy!  Dad had to replace the clutch on his 170k mile '91 Maxima last summer, and is about reaching his limit of wanting to save money, lift a finger to perform any repairs, or patience.  They got about $3k off in rebates/discounts.  The local dealers don't require appointments to drop off vehicles if you're a local, which was a huge selling point: pull in, drop it off, hop in any vehicle on the lot as a loaner, and come back when it's done.  Locals (especially those with roots) take priority. 🙃  Their brand new car is paid off, so in that regard, it costs $0/month.

 

 

IMG_0043.jpg

Edited by 16LT4
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2 hours ago, 16LT4 said:

 

Headaches, breakdowns and time lost cost far more than that.  On that car, there isn't a separate AC belt, so the car was undriveable without the belt.  U-haul to the rescue to get it to the local Euro Indy!  Dad had to replace the clutch on his 170k mile '91 Maxima last summer, and is about reaching his limit of wanting to save money, lift a finger to perform any repairs, or patience.  They got about $3k off in rebates/discounts.  The local dealers don't require appointments to drop off vehicles if you're a local, which was a huge selling point: pull in, drop it off, hop in any vehicle on the lot as a loaner, and come back when it's done.  Locals (especially those with roots) take priority. 🙃  Their brand new car is paid off, so in that regard, it costs $0/month.

 

 

IMG_0043.jpg

My ex learned the hard way about the 2.0L Turbo VW Tiguan after  plenty  of warnings....... Had a 2011 GTI with same APR'd up engine with no problems.....Daughter drove it to 150,000 before trading for a GS vette. 

 

EV's will stop alot of this nickel and dime crap. Fewer moving things to break. Average consumer will embrace it and I predict drive in and out service of batteries etc when the heavy hitters need replaced. 

 

 

 

 

 

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On 7/18/2022 at 10:28 PM, Ravenkeeper said:

My 2015 was killed JUST SHY of 55K miles, 4 years ago.

 

My 2018 will be turning 45K tomorrow.

Ok, misread odometer, it just turned 44K last night on the way home from work, after I filled up.  These were taken after I got to work this afternoon.

Current Miles.jpg

Current HRs v Miles.jpg

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