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You'll be just fine with whatever the dealership is putting in there.

 

That said, I'm not a big Mobil 1 fan. My LS3 C6 liked Penzoil better as the valve train was quieter and didn't come out of the pan looking like sewage, same thing with my LS1 Fbody. It ran better on the german casterol than on mobil 1 and looked better when oil change time came.

 

It could very well be that the mobil 1 did a better job but given the evidence I saw with my eyes I don't think it's anything special as it was in the 90's. Feel free to flame me over my opinion, just my experience.

 

Whatever oil came in my 2016 2500 from the dealer has been very good, at 5000 miles it still looks great. I'm waiting out the oil change meter to get my free oil change though. Probably need to get to 7500 miles.

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You'll be just fine with whatever the dealership is putting in there.

 

That said, I'm not a big Mobil 1 fan. My LS3 C6 liked Penzoil better as the valve train was quieter and didn't come out of the pan looking like sewage, same thing with my LS1 Fbody. It ran better on the german casterol than on mobil 1 and looked better when oil change time came.

 

It could very well be that the mobil 1 did a better job but given the evidence I saw with my eyes I don't think it's anything special as it was in the 90's. Feel free to flame me over my opinion, just my experience.

 

Whatever oil came in my 2016 2500 from the dealer has been very good, at 5000 miles it still looks great. I'm waiting out the oil change meter to get my free oil change though. Probably need to get to 7500 miles.

The only reason I use Mobil 1 is that it is a Dexos oil I can get for $20/5qt jug...if I didn't have to spend so much on Schaeffers to get the shipping break, I would run it to this day.

 

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You'll be just fine with whatever the dealership is putting in there.

 

That said, I'm not a big Mobil 1 fan. My LS3 C6 liked Penzoil better as the valve train was quieter and didn't come out of the pan looking like sewage, same thing with my LS1 Fbody. It ran better on the german casterol than on mobil 1 and looked better when oil change time came.

 

It could very well be that the mobil 1 did a better job but given the evidence I saw with my eyes I don't think it's anything special as it was in the 90's. Feel free to flame me over my opinion, just my experience.

 

Whatever oil came in my 2016 2500 from the dealer has been very good, at 5000 miles it still looks great. I'm waiting out the oil change meter to get my free oil change though. Probably need to get to 7500 miles.

Today's Mobil 1 is not what it once was, not so much their fault as the court ruling was that you can call a oil a synthetic without being so when everyone decided to call their oil synthetic Mobil 1 had to cheapen their oil to compete.

 

Agreed on Pennzoil ultra platinum being the better oil.

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Today's Mobil 1 is not what it once was, not so much their fault as the court ruling was that you can call a oil a synthetic without being so when everyone decided to call their oil synthetic Mobil 1 had to cheapen their oil to compete.

 

Agreed on Pennzoil ultra platinum being the better oil.

Better in what respect?

 

This is purely speculative...will an engine treated with nothing but Pennzoil get twice the miles of Mobil 1? 10k miles more? 100k miles more? 200k more? Will the original owner ever keep the truck long enough to know?

 

Making a statement that one oil is better than another, with no studies showing a reproducible and consistent result is, again, speculation. I can show an independent paper that shows Mobil 1 is a better oil in laboratory testing...but again, what does that really mean?

 

I stand by my statement, when was the last oil-related failure that was reported in this forum in a vehicle that received even rudimentary maintenance?

 

We, as a forum, can go back and forth on this all day...the short answer is, if it's dexos, it will serve the purpose fine. Pick one, and relax.

 

 

 

 

 

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The only reason I use Mobil 1 is that it is a Dexos oil I can get for $20/5qt jug...if I didn't have to spend so much on Schaeffers to get the shipping break, I would run it to this day.

 

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If you're still using Mobil 1 you should really start doing the rebates for it. Two 5 quart jugs twice a year with I believe $12 back on each jug. If you use more oil than 20 quarts a year then just have your neighbor or family member do a set of rebates for you as well. Works out nicely for me with the delvac 1300, especially since they upped it to $35 instead of the $25 per 5 gallons so now I'm getting 5 gallons free.

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Better in what respect?

 

This is purely speculative...will an engine treated with nothing but Pennzoil get twice the miles of Mobil 1? 10k miles more? 100k miles more? 200k more? Will the original owner ever keep the truck long enough to know?

 

Making a statement that one oil is better than another, with no studies showing a reproducible and consistent result is, again, speculation. I can show an independent paper that shows Mobil 1 is a better oil in laboratory testing...but again, what does that really mean?

 

I stand by my statement, when was the last oil-related failure that was reported in this forum in a vehicle that received even rudimentary maintenance?

 

We, as a forum, can go back and forth on this all day...the short answer is, if it's dexos, it will serve the purpose fine. Pick one, and relax.

 

 

 

 

 

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If you use Pennzoil your engine will last 3 times as long as the rest of your truck, if you cheap out and use Mobil 1 it will only last twice as long as the rest of your truck :)

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Better in what respect?

 

This is purely speculative...will an engine treated with nothing but Pennzoil get twice the miles of Mobil 1? 10k miles more? 100k miles more? 200k more? Will the original owner ever keep the truck long enough to know?

 

Making a statement that one oil is better than another, with no studies showing a reproducible and consistent result is, again, speculation. I can show an independent paper that shows Mobil 1 is a better oil in laboratory testing...but again, what does that really mean?

 

I stand by my statement, when was the last oil-related failure that was reported in this forum in a vehicle that received even rudimentary maintenance?

 

We, as a forum, can go back and forth on this all day...the short answer is, if it's dexos, it will serve the purpose fine. Pick one, and relax.

 

 

 

 

 

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Some of us actually have oil analysis done and compare both new and used oil, unless you have a degree or spend all your time on bobstheoilguy then I am going to assume it is you that does not know what they are talking about.

 

As we have all agreed on you could probably run the cheapest fleet filter and bulk oil and get the same life out of a 6.0 as you could running nothing but the best for filters and fluids. LS motors are great!

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Some of us actually have oil analysis done and compare both new and used oil, unless you have a degree or spend all your time on bobstheoilguy then I am going to assume it is you that does not know what they are talking about.

 

As we have all agreed on you could probably run the cheapest fleet filter and bulk oil and get the same life out of a 6.0 as you could running nothing but the best for filters and fluids. LS motors are great!

Spent way to much time on BITOG, probably ten years before they changed admin, most of those folks (that were there when I was) would agree with me...the average consumer won't see any benefit.

 

 

 

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Was talking up here today and it sounds like the GM dealers are dropping the semi synthetic oil and going with a full synthetic instead for their bulk oil. If that's true I might actually go in for my free oil changes lol. The bulk oil the dealer I got my truck from comes in totes from Shell and it's Pennzoil Gold semi synthetic. I asked because I wanted to know what oil I had to send in for analysis so the lab can pull a reference to clean oil. My truck was a demo and had 2 oil changes on it already when I bought it.

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  • 1 month later...

The OP, being in GA, would do fine with a 10w30 also.  And no dealer on the planet could tell the difference between a 5w30 and a 10w30 if they wanted to.  And given the OP's area of the country, neither would the engine.  I am partial to 10w30 more often than not, as it tends to be more shear stable under load and has a lower NOACK (burn off) rate.  But the 5w30's can be pretty good.

 

All the major brands are fine within the OEM recommended intervals and normal operation of the vehicle.  I primarily use Schaeffer, but I get a LOT of my oil commercially thru Schaeffer, so I have them throw in a case of 5w30 for the pickup on an order now and then.  But if I wasn't using Schaeffer, I would have no problem using many of the other brands out there.  Heck, my 2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6 that calls for 5w30 M1 synthetic by GM, it has lived just fine on Pennzoil 10w30 conventional year round in Iowa since I have owned it.  Still going strong and a great car.  None of the typical timing chain issues and other nonsense that have plagued many other owners.  Not saying the Pennz was the ticket, but it sure is no worse than the M1 that was recommended.

 

Many of us tend to overthink the issue.  Get a quality syn blend or full syn at the best price point you can and relax.  If one wants to put in the effort, then go onto the Petroleum Quality Institute of America's website and compare how different brand formulations are.  Totally unbiased oil sample testing out of the bottle they pulled off a shelf and one can see what different oils are made of.   Requires a little more technical expertise to know what formulation components are designed for and how they supplement each other to mean anything to anyone.  Most folks have no need to go into it that deep.

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  • 2 months later...

GM actually puts a synthetic blend, i.e. a synthetic and dino motor oil in new 2018 trucks. ACDelco synthetic blend in 5W30 at the dealer or elsewhere my choice is the Pennzoil Gold or Quaker State synthetic blend motor oils. I always use the stock oil and air filters as they are as well made and often better made than the third party ones.

 

Engines change internally over the years even if the designation stays the same. The 2017 and later engines are designed to have much tighter tolerances and to use a lighter grade motor oil to increase fuel economy and with any multi-grade there is a much increased chance of shearing which means no lubricant between bearing surfaces. With my 2018 Travers I am using a top quality Dexos1 synthetic blend. With my 2011 Duramax I use a dino oil with a good additive mix (which excludes Amsoil from consideration).

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On a completely random note, I swear that back in the day you could smell the difference between the Pennsylvania oils and the Texas oils.   I seem to recall Quaker State and Pennzoil smelling sweeter than everything else.  

 

Also, if you want to see for yourself, don't squeeze the bottle too hard when you sniff.  I got way too much 10w40 up my nostrils learning this particular lesson.  

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Ah the old tight tolerances comment... love that rubbish.  If you want to sound remotely correct use the word clearance with the statement and not tolerance.  Tolerance doesn't even make sense because all that means is the acceptable level of error is more refined... which it's not.  The old L96 isn't anything special... especially idling with like 25 pounds of pressure hot.. loose comes to mind there when any gen 3 Is I have owned can do 40 psi hot idle on the same viscosity oil of even the same brand.  Means that pressure is bleeding off somewhere.. The acceptable clearance on the mains is still from like 8 tenths of a thou to 2.1 thou... you know.. roughly the same as a 350 from 30 years ago was lol.  

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On a completely random note, I swear that back in the day you could smell the difference between the Pennsylvania oils and the Texas oils.   I seem to recall Quaker State and Pennzoil smelling sweeter than everything else.  
 
Also, if you want to see for yourself, don't squeeze the bottle too hard when you sniff.  I got way too much 10w40 up my nostrils learning this particular lesson.  
Pennsylvania crude oil was considered a sweet crude because of its wax content...that's also what made it sludge up. Ever seen an older car subjected to nothing but Quaker State?

My dad worked at a Pennzoil refinery for 30 years...a lot changed when they merged with Shell.

As for sniffing bottles of oil, that might explain some things about some of you...:)

Steve
2012 2500hd 6.0l

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On 1/26/2018 at 6:03 PM, Wintersun said:

GM actually puts a synthetic blend, i.e. a synthetic and dino motor oil in new 2018 trucks. ACDelco synthetic blend in 5W30 at the dealer or elsewhere my choice is the Pennzoil Gold or Quaker State synthetic blend motor oils. I always use the stock oil and air filters as they are as well made and often better made than the third party ones.

 

Engines change internally over the years even if the designation stays the same. The 2017 and later engines are designed to have much tighter tolerances and to use a lighter grade motor oil to increase fuel economy and with any multi-grade there is a much increased chance of shearing which means no lubricant between bearing surfaces. With my 2018 Travers I am using a top quality Dexos1 synthetic blend. With my 2011 Duramax I use a dino oil with a good additive mix (which excludes Amsoil from consideration).

Dexos1 Gen 2 which came out in 2015 is full synthetic.  Gen 1 is a blend.

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