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1 hour ago, Raxnar said:

They are saying it needs a fuse greater than 20A, obviously this one you found for easy connecting is 50A.  Do you think this will still work for the Cellink Neo Battery?

 

I know, you probably aren't familiar with the battery product but you seem to know a bit more about electrical than I do.

 

Should I maybe put a 20A fuse between the spade connector and the battery?

 

Ya you can still use this spade terminal.  Fuse ratings are a capacity and the actual current going through the circuit is based on the loads that are connected to it.  So in theory since this device charges at 9A you could safely run 5 of these at once off that single point(which you wouldn't)

 

Yes, you absolutely should should go from that spade terminal to a Inline fuse.  I would also recommend trying to stick with the same kind of fuses the truck already uses(micro 2) so you can use the spares chevy conveniently provides in the case you end up blowing one. 

 

Ideally fuses are chosen to protect a given wire size and the wire size is chosen based on the current the load is going to pull.  Usually for 20A you would want 12G or 14G wire.

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47 minutes ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

Ya you can still use this spade terminal.  Fuse ratings are a capacity and the actual current going through the circuit is based on the loads that are connected to it.  So in theory since this device charges at 9A you could safely run 5 of these at once off that single point(which you wouldn't)

 

Yes, you absolutely should should go from that spade terminal to a Inline fuse.  I would also recommend trying to stick with the same kind of fuses the truck already uses(micro 2) so you can use the spares chevy conveniently provides in the case you end up blowing one. 

 

Ideally fuses are chosen to protect a given wire size and the wire size is chosen based on the current the load is going to pull.  Usually for 20A you would want 12G or 14G wire.

Thanks!  That is where my head was going and what I'll be doing.

 

The reason for the Cellink Neo is I had a Dashcam in my Subaru STI but it wouldn't last more than 30 minutes before it would shutdown due to low battery. Thinkware 750 with rear camera. 

 

Now I have the F800 Pro and rear camera.  The Cellink Neo gives a couple days of parking recording if memory serves me.

 

So something like this would do the trick nicely.

https://www.amazon.ca/KOLACEN-Automotive-Truck-Holder-Pieces/dp/B07C5QK4LW/ref=sr_1_5?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1528173445&sr=8-5&keywords=inline+fuse+14+awg

 

Again, thanks!

 

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2 hours ago, Raxnar said:

Thanks!  That is where my head was going and what I'll be doing.

 

The reason for the Cellink Neo is I had a Dashcam in my Subaru STI but it wouldn't last more than 30 minutes before it would shutdown due to low battery. Thinkware 750 with rear camera. 

 

Now I have the F800 Pro and rear camera.  The Cellink Neo gives a couple days of parking recording if memory serves me.

 

So something like this would do the trick nicely.

https://www.amazon.ca/KOLACEN-Automotive-Truck-Holder-Pieces/dp/B07C5QK4LW/ref=sr_1_5?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1528173445&sr=8-5&keywords=inline+fuse+14+awg

 

Again, thanks!

 

 

 

I'm sure the celllink neo will work out for you fine.  I just have a hard time wrapping my head around the price they want for it. Absolutely insane markup. Personally I would have a hard time justifying going that route when I could get a full size quality deep cycle battery and a battery isolator and run the entire truck on a dual battery setup and still end up cheaper than that thing with added benefits of having all the accessories battery backup-ed and having a extra battery  in case the primary starting battery goes dead.  Not to mention you end up with a 75-130AH+ battery instead of the little 6.5AH that the celllink offers.  You could probably have a shop install the dual battery setup with the parts and still end up cheaper than their asking for that thing...

 

most dashcams pull ~3-6W while fully powered on so that cellink with its 76W/H battery will probably only last 12-25 hours between starts.  The f800 does have shock activated parking mode which if you use that will probably last weeks though.

 

There are also battery drain protection devices out there that are only like 15-30$ that would also achieve what you want and always leave you with enough power to start the vehicle.

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Hardwire-Motorcycle-Charger-Cellphone-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528181522&sr=8-7&keywords=micro2+fuse

https://www.amazon.ca/Blackvue-Power-Magic-Pro-Prevention/dp/B008B8ERIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528182429&sr=8-3&keywords=power+magic

 

That inline fuse will work fine I used one exactly like it with a blue spade crimped on one end and a butt connector on the other side.

 

 

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Just got my BlackVue DR900S-2CH with their ultra battery pack which will allow me full 24 hour recording without killing the battery.

Will instal after the lift this weekend and try to record the instal. Great set up - bran new cams.

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8 hours ago, Crazyjoker77 said:

 

 

I'm sure the celllink neo will work out for you fine.  I just have a hard time wrapping my head around the price they want for it. Absolutely insane markup. Personally I would have a hard time justifying going that route when I could get a full size quality deep cycle battery and a battery isolator and run the entire truck on a dual battery setup and still end up cheaper than that thing with added benefits of having all the accessories battery backup-ed and having a extra battery  in case the primary starting battery goes dead.  Not to mention you end up with a 75-130AH+ battery instead of the little 6.5AH that the celllink offers.  You could probably have a shop install the dual battery setup with the parts and still end up cheaper than their asking for that thing...

 

most dashcams pull ~3-6W while fully powered on so that cellink with its 76W/H battery will probably only last 12-25 hours between starts.  The f800 does have shock activated parking mode which if you use that will probably last weeks though.

 

There are also battery drain protection devices out there that are only like 15-30$ that would also achieve what you want and always leave you with enough power to start the vehicle.

 

https://www.amazon.ca/Hardwire-Motorcycle-Charger-Cellphone-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1528181522&sr=8-7&keywords=micro2+fuse

https://www.amazon.ca/Blackvue-Power-Magic-Pro-Prevention/dp/B008B8ERIO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528182429&sr=8-3&keywords=power+magic

 

That inline fuse will work fine I used one exactly like it with a blue spade crimped on one end and a butt connector on the other side.

 

 

I thought about the 2nd battery route myself and may eventually still do it. The special replacement cable is like $180 and a decent battery is about $200-250, so yes it is similar in price and offers more for the truck.

If I do the second battery I'll have the dealership do it to not void warranty, the truck is not even 2 months old.

 

I also had a $100 gift card to use at Blackboxmycar.ca so that helped :)

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4 hours ago, WesternMike said:

Just got my BlackVue DR900S-2CH with their ultra battery pack which will allow me full 24 hour recording without killing the battery.

Will instal after the lift this weekend and try to record the instal. Great set up - bran new cams.

I looked at the Blackvue camera, couldn't justify the $200-300 price increase for 4k video only on the front. Other than that they are very comparable dash cams.

 

Blackvue have also degraded quality wise from the reviews I've read lately.

 

I hope you enjoy the camera though!

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I looked at the Blackvue camera, couldn't justify the $200-300 price increase for 4k video only on the front. Other than that they are very comparable dash cams.
 
Blackvue have also degraded quality wise from the reviews I've read lately.
 
I hope you enjoy the camera though!



Degraded? From what I’ve read they went up since last model. They even went with a better newer compression. I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure they’re new one I’m getting(not sure if released yet) is much better than previous.
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1 minute ago, WesternMike said:

 

 


Degraded? From what I’ve read they went up since last model. They even went with a better newer compression. I could be wrong but I’m pretty sure they’re new one I’m getting(not sure if released yet) is much better than previous.

 

 

I hope that is the case and the reviews and Vendor recommendations are off.

 

Keep us updated on how it works out!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi there.

I am working on almost the same thing, maybe I missed it in one of the posts.

Could I get clarification.

I have 2014 Sierra SLT. Putting in Vantrue x3 dashcam. Would like to hardwire from passenger fuse panel. Have a micro2 tap. Which fuse would be the always on fuse. All the short acronyms are confusing.

Thanks in advance.

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  • 11 months later...
  • 1 year later...
On 9/18/2017 at 1:11 AM, Crazyjoker77 said:

I just hardwired my dash cam last week. In my truck there was no switched power in the passenger side only constant 12V. Drivers side has a dedicated stake for switched power (or RPO as chevy calls it) Just use a inline fuse with a standard female spade connector.

 

You will also find that mini add a fuse is useless as these trucks use a new standard in fuses called Micro2 (different from micro). I was unable to find a micro 2 add-a-circuit in any of the stores locally.

 

heres a picture showing the dedicated RPO power in the drivers side interior fuse box.(where the blue stak-on is) Alternatevly if you have to use a add-a-circuit that brown 7.5A fuse is also a switched source and is for the heated steering wheel that most trucks don't have but the fuse is always there.

 

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Just to note, that 7.5 brown fuse supplies the steering wheel air bag coil as well. I'd use caution before tapping into it.

 

 

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