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creimes

2017 LED Upgrade to front signal Light..Updated

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I'm looking to see if anyone has done a bulb swap to LED for their front signal bulb in the front, my 2017 differs from my 2014 I had as its just a plastic piece that rotates out holding the bulb so there is no way to add a resistor, I have tried a so called Canbus bulb from "Super Bright LED's" which didn't work nor was it bright enough., and I know the LTZ and up models have LED lights from factory but I wasn't wiling or able to spend another $10,000 above my purchase price of my LT.

 

I went ahead with the upgrade, below I will post pictures and part numbers that I used for uprgading to LED front signal lights in my Silverado LT2

 

Chad

Edited by creimes

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On 5/9/2018 at 10:45 PM, DEV1ST8R said:

Here's a good video that answers a lot of questions:

 

https://youtu.be/vCEUSU0BiDE

I was thinking of purchasing two of those plastic bulb holders that spin out and drilling into the back of them and running the wires from the resistors through the holes to where the bulb slides in and makes contact, I just haven't got around to it yet. I'll check out the vid, thanks.

 

Chad

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So I went ahead with what I thought would be a good idea for upgrading my front LED signal lights and it worked as planned and was super easy and by ordering two new sockets that hold the bulb I can easily change back to the stock incandescent bulbs.

 

I started out by ordering Part #23382205 from my local GM dealer so as the mod I was going to do wasn't going to affect by chance of me messing them up the original sockets that came in the truck. I drilled from the inside of the socket where the bulb slides into at a slight angle so I wouldn't drill through the fin on the back that you use to grab and turn the socket into the light assembly. Next I fed one of the wires from the 50 watt resistor through the holes and simply lined them up with the contacts that the bulbs make when inserting the bulb into the socket, that being the wire is between the socket and bulb contacts.

 

By doing it this way I didn't have to break into the wiring harness resulting in chance of messing anything up and it was way easier to do this way.

 

The following are the parts I ordered from both GM and DDM Tuning

 

GM Part #23382205

 

https://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/7443-6xCree

 

29208244958_9a07736139_b.jpg

 

42361449614_9080685c84_b.jpg

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Fantastic idea for those of you with 2016+ trucks with those sockets, very clean. Are the rear sockets like the front?

Did you mount the resistor somewhere? They get hot and you don't want them touching plastic or other wiring or just flopping around.

 

I found that you really only need one wire going to the socket, the hot side, and the other end of the resistor can be grounded anywhere

that is ground, even if you have to make the wire longer to get there. You don't have to wire the ground to the ground wire going to the bulb is what I'm saying.

 

I have a 2015, two turn signal bulbs on each side. Someone on this forum said you need a resistor for each bulb, and I found that to be

true, I tried just one for two bulbs, didn't work, hyperflash still. So I ran two resistors in parallel, two wires down to one and spliced

into the 6 pin connector. One wire spliced into the turn signal power wire, the other end of the resistors, did the same and ran that wire to

the body ground located on the firewall. Works great. Mounted my resistors on the inner fender, easy to get to.

 

You could probably do the same for your set up and only have to drill one hole in your socket.

 

5b3811304e864_ResistorsFront.JPG.90e6027d91fad8955cd4cdcb3f94f9a5.JPG

Two resistors for each side, just ran a wire to the right side and spliced into the 6 pin connector over there.

Good solid solder joint. I wouldn't use the scotch locks they send with the resistors.

5b3811fc31b2f_ResistorsFrontGround.JPG.869fe85f424032350cf588387d84317a.JPG

Run the other end of the resistors to the stud.

The same thing can be done for the rear turn signals with two bulbs on each side...there is a junction block

just to the left of the spare tire, one wire one splice, then just find a good ground.

5b381465135a2_ResistorsRear.JPG.55c4689d0b57fd0072fbaf1ae77b32ed.JPG

Rear resistors mounted to reese hitch, single wire to junction box plug. Other end going to ground.

5b381682d1177_ResistorsRearGround.JPG.29056dfc79d5193db5308ad26217f697.JPG

Made my own ground, I have some other led's grounded to the same stud with no ill effects.

 

 

 

 

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On 6/30/2018 at 6:59 PM, Old School Mechanic said:

Fantastic idea for those of you with 2016+ trucks with those sockets, very clean. Are the rear sockets like the front?

Did you mount the resistor somewhere? They get hot and you don't want them touching plastic or other wiring or just flopping around.

 

I found that you really only need one wire going to the socket, the hot side, and the other end of the resistor can be grounded anywhere

that is ground, even if you have to make the wire longer to get there. You don't have to wire the ground to the ground wire going to the bulb is what I'm saying.

 

I have a 2015, two turn signal bulbs on each side. Someone on this forum said you need a resistor for each bulb, and I found that to be

true, I tried just one for two bulbs, didn't work, hyperflash still. So I ran two resistors in parallel, two wires down to one and spliced

into the 6 pin connector. One wire spliced into the turn signal power wire, the other end of the resistors, did the same and ran that wire to

the body ground located on the firewall. Works great. Mounted my resistors on the inner fender, easy to get to.

 

You could probably do the same for your set up and only have to drill one hole in your socket.

 

5b3811304e864_ResistorsFront.JPG.90e6027d91fad8955cd4cdcb3f94f9a5.JPG

Two resistors for each side, just ran a wire to the right side and spliced into the 6 pin connector over there.

Good solid solder joint. I wouldn't use the scotch locks they send with the resistors.

5b3811fc31b2f_ResistorsFrontGround.JPG.869fe85f424032350cf588387d84317a.JPG

Run the other end of the resistors to the stud.

The same thing can be done for the rear turn signals with two bulbs on each side...there is a junction block

just to the left of the spare tire, one wire one splice, then just find a good ground.

5b381465135a2_ResistorsRear.JPG.55c4689d0b57fd0072fbaf1ae77b32ed.JPG

Rear resistors mounted to reese hitch, single wire to junction box plug. Other end going to ground.

5b381682d1177_ResistorsRearGround.JPG.29056dfc79d5193db5308ad26217f697.JPG

Made my own ground, I have some other led's grounded to the same stud with no ill effects.

 

 

 

 

 

Very nice work, I thought of getting a little more fancy with it but also thought the idea of easy removal would be nice as well, I can just pop these out and pop the ones with the factory bulbs back in and no one is the wiser haha, heard too many horror stories of warranty issues getting blamed on simple things.

 

The front signals were the last exterior light on my truck that were not LED so I had to take care of that lol, I have Anzo LED tail lights put on when I bought the truck and I still want to upgrade the front HID to the new D2S 35 watt bulbs but I'm waiting till they are cheaper as being in Canada really brings the price up with exchange and all the other fees and such.

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On 6/28/2018 at 11:08 PM, creimes said:

So I went ahead with what I thought would be a good idea for upgrading my front LED signal lights and it worked as planned and was super easy and by ordering two new sockets that hold the bulb I can easily change back to the stock incandescent bulbs.

 

I started out by ordering Part #23382205 from my local GM dealer so as the mod I was going to do wasn't going to affect by chance of me messing them up the original sockets that came in the truck. I drilled from the inside of the socket where the bulb slides into at a slight angle so I wouldn't drill through the fin on the back that you use to grab and turn the socket into the light assembly. Next I fed one of the wires from the 50 watt resistor through the holes and simply lined them up with the contacts that the bulbs make when inserting the bulb into the socket, that being the wire is between the socket and bulb contacts.

 

By doing it this way I didn't have to break into the wiring harness resulting in chance of messing anything up and it was way easier to do this way.

 

The following are the parts I ordered from both GM and DDM Tuning

 

GM Part #23382205

 

https://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/7443-6xCree

 

29208244958_9a07736139_b.jpg

 

42361449614_9080685c84_b.jpg

after a lot of reading, best way to do the front signals yet. 100% reversible, 100% integrity. someone should sticky this somewhere... thank you!

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I have full intentions on doing this soon...where did you mount the actual resistor to? Or are you just letting it hang there??

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3 hours ago, mrtizzom said:

I have full intentions on doing this soon...where did you mount the actual resistor to? Or are you just letting it hang there??

I just let them hang, they are light so I don't see much of an issue doing so and if something ever did they are cheap and easy to replace this way.

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5 hours ago, FishNJ said:

after a lot of reading, best way to do the front signals yet. 100% reversible, 100% integrity. someone should sticky this somewhere... thank you!

Thanks man, I wanted it to be clean and totally reversible as to why I didn't even mount the resistors they just hang which allows sufficient cooling in case they were to get hot, it's a bit more money to do it this way ordering the extra bulb holders and such but I thought if I messed anything up I still have the original ones haha.

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