If you only were going to be allowed one truck.....

[CadillacLuke24]

3: After I've found something I like, I will only modify if it A) is GM made or close in function and B) improves functionality. Bedliner falls under B, as does a tonneau cover. Wheels fall under A, new Michelins fall under B, headlight guards fall under B, and floor liners fall under B. The nice thing about my under pedal extension is that it doesn't impede pedal travel in all ranges, so I was able to do GM one better. 

 

The way I see it, I paid for my truck and for the engineering that went into him. GM put 13 million miles on test mules to crank out trucks like Clyde. Now only if we could get those bean counters to back off a tad 

 

So, to answer the question, like I do now. 

 

4: No changes. We're in a golden age of cars right now. 6.2 liters, 420 hp, 460 lb-ft of torque, and 21 mpg highway. That's INSANE. I'm not the number one fan of plastics for air dams, grilles, interior bits, or mirrors, but they hold up and they reduce weight. I would greatly appreciate paint that isn't water based or parts that don't show sandblasting like they do, but GM has to deal with the EPA, and until recently those dweebs have way more power than they deserve. Sure, we should take care of the planet we have and keep it clean, but for crying out loud, let's do it in a common sense, moderate approach. 

 

Besides, I love Clyde. Great power, great truck fuel economy, great capability, and DAMN does he look good. 

 

Now I know I will have other cars during my lifetime, such as my Cadillac, hopefully a few more Cadillacs and Chevrolets, but I want to be able to either hand Clyde down to a kid or grandkid, or donate him to a museum when my time is due near. Perhaps this has a bit more actual application for me 

 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

Do you know what else great fuel efficiency does for you besides save money at the pump? C’mon man! You know this if you just warm a few brain cells. It won’t hurt. Promise.

 

I’ll give you a hint, Step 1:

 

BMEP = (Torque * 2.473) / displacement. No? No bulbs turn on?

 

GM says this little 4.3 of mine will pump up 305 lb/ft at 3900 rpm.

 

(305 * 2.473) / 4.3 = 175 BMEP. That’s nuts on 87 Octane pump gas! That is one killer chamber design.

 

Now here’s the kick in the pants. This equation cares nothing about the RPM that torque is made at. For any rpm on the scale the torque produced it controlled by your right foot no matter what.

 

Speed takes pedal. Pedal increases cylinder charge density. Increased density increases BMEP.

 

Increased BMEP increases ring loading thus WEAR.

 

Ring tension introduces the ring to the cylinder but it is cylinder pressure that seals the system. Once sealed more pressure does not equal more seal. It equals more heat and more wear just like rubbing your hands together harder does.

 

While rpm plays no role in torque; it does play a role in friction just as rubbing your hands together faster will. Guess that means the lowest rpm that produces just enough torque to overcome the load creates the lowest pressure and the least wear. Told you it wouldn’t hurt. Much. Okay now it's going to hurt a bit. 

 

Step 2:

 

Thermal efficiency is the power used divided by the power available in the fuel and it looks like this:

 

((HP * Time * 33,000) / 778) / (Lbs. fuel * BTU value) = TE.

 

So say it takes 30 hp to run 60 mph for sixty minutes and in that hour your motor consumes 15 pounds of 17,600 BTU fuel.

 

(( 30 * 60 * 33,000) / 778) / (17 * 17,600) =  25.5%

 

Let say the density of the fuel is 6.07 lbs per gallon.

 

60 miles / (17/6.07) =  21.42 mpg

 

You slow 5 mph at it take 25 hp over 60 minutes using 14.16 lbs. of fuel:

 

(( 25 * 60 * 33,000) / 778) / ( 14.16 * 17,600) = 25.5%

 

Then : 55 miles / (14.16 / 6.07) = 23.58 mpg or a 10% increase.

 

Step 3:

 

In the first case the motor was spinning 1480 rpm and making 30 hp.

 

(30 * 5252) / 1480 = 106.5 lb/ft torque

 

In the second case it was spinning 1356 rpm and making 25 hp.

 

(25 * 5252) / 1356 = 96.8 lb/ft torque.

 

Step 4:

 

First case:

(106.5 / 2.473) / 4.3 = 61.23 PSIG

 

Second case:

(96.8*2.473) / 4.3 = 55.69 PSIG 

 

9% lower BMEP

 

Will that equal a 9% reduction in wear? No! It will be better than that and no I’m not doing the math layout for that in step by step fashion. Why? It is system specific and depends a good deal of some systems initial sizing. How much fat is in the build.

 

I’ll tell you this. In my personal experience a doubling plus in drive train life with a 30% increase in fuel economy. And great, not good maintenance. Not all of the increase comes from just slowing down…directly or indirectly.

 

The values in this post are not observed data but rather hypothetical to show how the math works. I did use my trucks gearing and tire dimensions for the speed to rpm calculations to give it a ‘real world’ reference point that is current and in an range. The rest are your basic engineering calculations. 

  

[Grumpy Bear]

I don't know why I believed that a thread focused on joining ideas to make ones truck last longer would fly beyond a few devoted souls who needed neither convincing nor prodding to continue doing what they have done for a lifetime. I didn't learn what I hoped I would; but I indeed did learn.  As far as they go this class was nearly free. At least it was cheap. Thanks for the education and the short list of those who can be relied upon for solid advise. That part was priceless. Good trade. 

[Grumpy Bear]

 

This photo was posted in another thread which I commented on in that thread. However thinking on this for a few days I realized something funny. Nobody cared. I guess it isn't that funny eh? At least for the guy in the right photo. 

 

Then some other pieces of a puzzle started drifting in. A paper stating that hot idle oil pressures on fresh oil below 19 psig are a prime indicator and cause for/of lifter failure. Lifter guides are made of plastic? They know what the problem is? 

 

In tank oil coolers are common place.                                                        

 

GDI motor have higher fuel dilution rates that SPFI or even carburetors. Especially those motors short hauled. 

 

Sump volumes increasing to insane levels. 6 and 8 + quart systems use to be in the domain of race motors.

 

Anyone see a pattern here? 

 

The OLM was reprogramed to give a maximum change interval of 7,500 miles. Shorter than previous units and yet oil volume has increased and some weak effort has been given to controlling oil temperature. What does that indicate?  Look at the photos!

 

Additive package depletion and viscosity losses are killing motors whose designers are bent on pushing the envelope to the very limits of physics. The solution to pollution is dilution. That is the pat answer given not in word but in deed and design. 

 

So what does Joe Average do? He's either ignorant of that fact or believing in the marketing hype that "todays oils are designed to HANDLE 250 F + all day". Mobil 1 adds claim 500F!!! That there is such a thing as a safe 20K oil change without rigorous oil analysis, filter changes and perhaps a add pack booster. GM helps him out by installing a oil pressure gauge that reads 40 psi when the truth is closer to 25 psi keeping him feeling all warm and fuzzy and unable to verify the truth simply. Isn't that sweet of them?  You don't have to whip your truck like a pup to abuse the oil either. 207F thermostat and an in tank oil cooler will do that for you. You just help by replacing common sense with blind trust in people who lie for a living.  

 

 

[KARNUT]

To be fair that kind of sludge can be had by short drives and no real warm ups. I can remember two old ladies cars. One I bought and one I worked on. The one I bought was a 68 impala 307. It was a low mileage once a year dealer oil change. I put a intake on it and changed the valve cover gaskets on it. Sludge was building. Being a teenager I beat the hell out of it. About a year later I pulled the valve covers clean as can be. The only difference long drives and my lead foot. My grandmothers car every 6 months oil changes never left town probably never saw over 45 MPH. A 6 cylinder Chevy. I changed the value cover sludge was bad. This was a long time ago oil has changed, both cars were under 30K miles but over 6 years old. It was also when 3K oil changes was the norm. I would lean towards the sludge being cause by short drives and low temperature.


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[diyer2]

Repeat.

I bought my truck used and did  two early oil and filter changes when I got it.

Then 3 k miles changes since.

The oil pressure has gone up since I bought it.

Cold start, idle and running oil pressure has increased.

IMO the motor was cleaned up doing more oil changes.

 

You always pulled the valve covers when buying a junk yard motor.

 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

32 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

To be fair that kind of sludge can be had by short drives and no real warm ups. I can remember two old ladies cars. One I bought and one I worked on. The one I bought was a 68 impala 307. It was a low mileage once a year dealer oil change. I put a intake on it and changed the valve cover gaskets on it. Sludge was building. Being a teenager I beat the hell out of it. About a year later I pulled the valve covers clean as can be. The only difference long drives and my lead foot. My grandmothers car every 6 months oil changes never left town probably never saw over 45 MPH. A 6 cylinder Chevy. I changed the value cover sludge was bad. This was a long time ago oil has changed, both cars were under 30K miles but over 6 years old. It was also when 3K oil changes was the norm. I would lean towards the sludge being cause by short drives and low temperature.


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Which depletes the acid pack and dilutes the fuel. Your making my point for me. 

[Grumpy Bear]

The question isn't how many miles until the oil is incapable of protecting my motor. The question is, as KARNUT completes the thought, what conditions do I subject my oil to and under those conditions what is the safe limit for either time or miles before it can no longer protect. Only the user can answer that. There's more than one way to kill your oil. It isn't a one trick pony. 

 

Unlike professional diesel operators whose livelihood depends on the cost effective operation of their rigs and whom the industry sees fit to supply no end of useful information per manufacture no less; the auto industry nor the oil industry are nearly as forthcoming. Add to that a happy willfully ignorant public willing to entrust the value of a good home into the hands of those so disposed...….and...…..a breading ground for O'l Wives Tails and downright harmful if but well meant advise. 

 

Took exactly one UOA to show me GDI is unkind to oil even under great conditions of day to day operation. Just say'n! You have to watch your own hen house if you want' the fox kept out. 

Edited October 30, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

Winter. Buicks are in the garage hibernating. Several months of dust settled in and of course Louise the cat who lives in the garage thinks is a playground. Not all bad. The wife decided, being the cat lover she is, to heat this largely uninsulated space. Good for me. Not so much the heating bill. First time in twenty years that space has been short sleeve comfortable this time of year. This lead to the start of who knows how many hours of detailing of the Lacrosse to come. In that some observations on the task.

 

Ever look a paint under high magnification? YUCK! Worse if it's white. Rail dust rust. Fly poop and spider spit.  

 

That surface that looks shinny bright and smoot as a babies bottom glistening like a polished jewel is a horrid wreck of trapped dirt, micro scratches and cracks. Some of that there is absolutely nothing you can do about it as regards removing it or repairing it. Good thing we don't have natural 50X vision. 

 

Point here, cutting the chase is, there are thousands of routes and wicks to the metal under that paint, that while finer than the naked eye can see, nature will have no trouble exploiting. Chips and scratches we paint but wax or sealant isn't something to be ignored if want it to last awhile. It fills and seals the micro imperfections. Some of which is in the nature of water borne paints and the way they cure. Not actually cracks as they are failures to crosslink completely. Just because it look good doesn't mean it is good. Just say'n. 

[CadillacLuke24]

Buicks? You have another?

 

How did the seat cushion saga turn out?

 

I need to spiff up Clyde's paint. The weather around here does it no favors.

[Grumpy Bear]

16 hours ago, CadillacLuke24 said:

Buicks? You have another?

 

How did the seat cushion saga turn out?

 

I need to spiff up Clyde's paint. The weather around here does it no favors.

Yep, wife has a 15 Verano. 12K on the clock. Still has the new car smell. Yum. 

On the seat no one wanted to touch it. 20 year old leather that is no longer available and a grand for the sensor. This is called an air bag delete. 

[CadillacLuke24]

Sheesh at that price no kidding!

[Grumpy Bear]

Wasn't sure where I wanted to put this graph but as it relates to longevity I think here is good. 

 

Currently I run a modified thermal bypass valve which is the same as running without. Trans temperature then 'floats' on ambient air temperature, water temperature and load. For some months I've been plotting and sharing Trans Fluid temperature vs Ambient air temperature at a constant 55 mph in my build thread. Here we hold the air temperature a constant and vary the load via speed. 

 

I admit I cheated. Having about a million miles on Brit and American air-cooled motorcycles and extensive experience with fin fan exchangers I pretty much already knew where the sweet spot would be so I didn't have to hunt it down wasting tanks full of fuel over countless outings.

 

That sweet spot in cooling is between 52 to 56 mph.  (23-25 meters per second). Below this speed the air velocity through the radiator is to slow to extract all the heat the radiator area will allow. Above that speed load is greater than the heat can be removed due to that fixed area. In commercial systems shutters are used and radiators oversized to add flexibility and remove the area limitation. 

 

I'm drawn to the observation that peak fuel efficiency is also, as a rule, between 45 and 55 mph. 

 

If you compare this chart to the constant velocity charts then you can start to see a three level chess game. A dynamic situation that you can control with your right foot. It also becomes clear why one guy gets 60 K from a motor and it pukes and another fellow can run it a half million miles trouble free. 

 

 

Edited January 12, 2019 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

Triple your Wiper Blade Life

 

This is the best video I've ever seen on glass care. I didn't put this in vehicle care because it fits the theme of this tread quite well. Clean glass isn't just about clean. Visibility is greatly enhanced especially in the rain but it also will add to wiper blade life by multiples. Peppers are nearly 5 years old. I rarely have to use the wipers in a summer rain and the glass looks new. So yes, this works. Enjoy. 

 

 

[CadillacLuke24]

Excellent video...got most of the basics down, I freaking love Stoner's Invisible Glass. That and the Shop Towels Glass towels are an excellent combination. Stoner's makes a windshield wand that I have too, that makes life much much easier for the inside of the windshield. I had no idea they even made glass polish, will definitely be looking into that. Certainly can't help with the amount of aerial debris generated by Wyoming's traction modifiers during the winter XD. 

 

One thing that I do regularly that helps is with the wipers, I will find alcohol swabs in my scrub pocket when I go to do laundry, they are amazing for wiping the wiper blades off. Get them nice and clean. They look a lot like his towel did, will get a black streak from the wipers. Will hit 3 years in June with my factory wipers. 

Edited February 25, 2019 by CadillacLuke24