I've been looking at the AMP Terrain Grippers as they are a pretty good price for around $800 for a set of 33s and are a really aggressive all terrain tire design. If anyone's running them can you please post pics and reviews on them such as road noise, comfort, and tread life etc...
Ok so this is my first post on hear but im not new to this place ive used this forum thousands of times in the past as I am only 18years old i started off in a 03 gmc 1500 short bed reg cab stick shift, but up here in mass 2wd wasnt gonna cut it so after that I had a trailblazer for the past year and now Ive been lucky enough to get back into trucks with my new 1500 that i'm leasing, its an LT Z71 with 4wd and the 5.3. Im perfectly happy with how the trukc is as of now but I definitely want/"need' it to be leveled as my whole family Cousins, aunts, uncles, father, and mother have atleast a leveling kit or just a beefy vehicle as now im the only one without some ground clearance, but i dont know which leveling kit is the best choice as i want to stay under 3 inches. So if anyone could help me it would be great id like to know the best kits under a few categories. 1-Best ride. 2-Best bang for your buck. 3- Eastiest install. 4- Best offroad capability. 5- The best kit in general.
I have been told the Bilstien 510 is a great choice but before i pull any triggers i'd like to know all my options as I won't be getting the kit within a month or two as the truck only has 900 miles. Thank you
Hi All. I know this topic has been touched on numerous times now, but I thought I would add my two cents on the Rough Country 3.5" Lift and my experience. I wanted to create this post for other who may have the same lift and need some guidance on what to expect and what to do to correct the known issues. This is for a 2008 Chevy Suburban LT/Tahoe LTZ. I am sure this will apply to Avalanche as well, but may give other vehicle owners a starting point. Plus, I have not found this information on the internet anywhere.
I purchased this lift for a friend to lift her 2008 Chevy Tahoe with Auto Ride. I knew it wasn't made for Auto Ride, but i did an Auto Ride delete. After all, thinking base suspension, resetting to stock is a no brainer. However, I questioned some things that did not seem right during the installation namely the knuckles. The UCA's that came with the kit were tough enough, however, they sat at a 45 degree angle. Setting caster could not be done. She had a budget and I did what I could under her budget. Also, the front axles were almost at max angle too.
Well, I have a 2008 Chevy Suburban without Auto Ride, and I wanted the same lift for my vehicle. I bought the lift, but what I did different was that I also purchased Skyjacker 3.5 - 4" lifted knuckles. The cost was $671 and you have to contact Skyjacker to purchase them separate from their kit. This solved the UCA angle problem and brought it back to stock spec. It also brought the front axle angles back to to stock spec as well. Then three new problems arose. One, toe could not be set and the wheels were way out of whack. Two, as mentioned in other posts, camber/caster could not be set because the new knuckles have an offset neck. This cause the tires to stick out at the top, and maxes out the UCA within the bracket. Three, when installing bigger tires, one side sticks out farther in the rear toward the passenger side, and the driver side is tucked in.
Fixing issue one: I had to modify the outer tie rods by having 1" cut off with a chop saw. I went to a muffler shop and they did it for free. Then I realized I still did not have enough adjustment, so I cut off half an inch of the tie rod itself. This preserved integrity but also gave me what I needed in terms of toe in/out adjustment. The new lift knuckles tie rod side of the knuckle curves in, whereas stock is straight.
Fixing issue two: Purchasing and installing offset ball joints into the UCA's to correct the camber/caster issue created by the new lift knuckles. When I realized the problem, right away, the camber is just "almost" there but not quite. As mentioned in other posts, you will run on the outer edge of your tires. By installing this part it restores camber/caster adjustment by pulling the UCA "out" from maxed in position allowing for adjustment. The part number from MOOG RK100215 Driver side and MOOG RK100214 Passenger side. (Cost: $137 per UCA depending on where it is purchased). These UCA's come with the offset ball joint. I took mine in to Tire Rama, and because it is a "specialty" part, they installed my part without issue. Tire Rama was very cheap. I paid $162 for the install and $81 for the alignment. (This may vary based on your location) Everything is now fixed and aligned without further issue or worry. (NOTE: The RC UCA's did not work on my application. The cup on the RC UCA is too deep to accommodate the offset ball joint.)
Fixing issue three: Purchasing an adjustable track bar allows for the rear wheels to be evened out. The stock track bar is not adjustable. This might not matter to some people, however, you can get the dog leg effect where the rear of the vehicle does not drive in a straight line with the front of the vehicle. Spohn makes one for my vehicle and it costs around $125.
You will need to cut the UCA bracket before UCA installation if you decide to go with these parts mentioned above. I am a newb, not to working on vehicles, but to doing lifts. The lift I did on my vehicle is my only second one. The lift itself is straight forward. I added new tail lights, headlights, fender flares (Had to get the ones made for the Chevy Avalanche,as they do not make the pocket style for suburban), tinted windows (3M 20%front, 35% rear over stock tint), dual cat back exhaust w/flowmaster super 10 and 18" tips. I ran with an 18" 10 ply GoodYear Wrangler Duratrac Tire, and a 18" Fuel Vapor D569 wheel with -12 offset. My project is almost complete as of today, all that is left is to tune it.
I hope this helps someone. I wish I had this information sooner myself.
By Perry Lawson
Hey guys, first post here! I am looking at lifting my 2015 1500 Z71 4x4 and started out by looking at leveling kits and then progressed to a 3.5" lift kit and then just decided to do the Fabtech 4" budget kit but I have a question, the strut spacers only look like they are 2" or so tall and I was concerned that this lift isn't a true 4" lift kit. Also I was concerned that the control arms don't adjust the ball joint angles because they look like they have the same geometry as stock.
If any of yall have experience with this lift kit could you let me know if it is a true 4'' lift in the front or does it just bring it level bc the strut spacers don't look like they would give 4". I was turned onto this kit bc of the price and the 4" height but now I have concerns whether or not it is a true 4"
If I do a 3 inch leveling kit for the front and one inch in the rear, will just doing the diff spacers and new UCA’s be enough to take care of the bad suspension angles up front? Or would the LCA’s and Tie Rods also have to severe of angles and prematurely wear? Thanks
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