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426power

5.3 1500 vrs 6.0 2500

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Doesn't matter how fast you how, it's about being safe...I'd rather tow with a 2500hd or 3500hd, I don't care how much they bloat the tow ratings for a 1500.

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2 hours ago, garagerog said:

Spot on Don, there is a lot more to towing  a trailer than just how quick the tow vehicle is, don't think I've ever seen a drag race with a p/u towing a trailer, or for that matter racing up Pike's Peak. Now that I think about it, a 1500 6.2 might win the 1/4 mile towing a TT, but the 6.0 2500 would make it to the top of Pikes Peak either before or after said TT pulled the 1500 over one of those embankments, long ways down.

Agreed. Trailer sway is a huge issue in many cases. The old tail wagging the dog thing. A 3/4 ton can help with that.

I just reread the original post and noticed the truck has been leveled. Not really comfortable with that if you want to tow near max capacity. It shifts weight towards the back of the truck reducing your "effective" load. There is a reason for the "stink bug" stance. It gives a lot of travel in the suspension when you're running heavy.

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I drive a '13 2500HD 6.0 with 3.73 gears.  It's a beast to drive daily.  Best fuel mileage I gotten on the highway over distance is 15-16mpg at 65 with the cruise on.  Around town it averages about 12 mpg.  By comparison, I think the '15 1500 DC 5.3 3.08 gears was quicker (both trucks run same trans ratios), 2500HD 6.0 probably would beat it out of the hole, the 5.3 in the 1500 definitely better top end pull (cubic inches aside, you just can't beat positive effects of compression).   Towed a utility trailer with both up to about 2900#, didn't know the trailer was back there on either rig.  2500HD is all about the frame, axles, ratio and cooling system.  TOugh decision.  

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just came from a 2016 2500hd 6.0 liter 4.10 gear to a 2017 1500 wit 3.42 gears.

big mistake I cant stand the afm but its more than that.  the size the height and the

difference in pulling is what I miss. no comparison. mpg may 3-4 difference around

town. 1500 in a hurry to get in high gear at all times 2500 much better truck in my opinion.

 

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I'll chime in here. I have a 34' TT that weights about 8300# loaded. I use an Equalize anti-sway/WD hitch. Excellent hitch.

 

My 5.3L Sierra did great with the trailer. Hated the AFM, but towed pretty well. That being said, trailer did push truck around a little, and the car-like 1500 suspension bounced ALOT. 

 

I upgraded in November to a 6.0L 2500. Let's be frank here - you drove one and said it was a dog. It's a truck - not a sports car. If you want to feel confident while towing a 10,000# trailer, acceleration isn't the game.

 

My 6.0L does great as a daily driver, albient not the fuel mileage my 5.3L did, but I knew that getting into it. It is by no means a dog, but I don't expect teens in the quarter mile either - that's not why I bought it. We're tugging the trailer to Myrtle Beach in August, and I expect a much better drive with the heavier duty truck. Another factor in the HD game - 36 gallons means I won't stress about where to get gas. Hated the 26 gallon tank. Just weigh your options and good luck!

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I appreciate all of you opinions on this topic. I understand the 2500 is heavier duty and would pull better as far as the heavier suspension and the bigger  brakes. I have upgraded my truck to a complete Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors with the trailering pads. I noticed this did make a difference. I am going to tow with the 1500 for now, but will consider a diesel 2500 in the future, as I don't feel like doing the tuner thing and upgrades on one of those.

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1 hour ago, 426power said:

I appreciate all of you opinions on this topic. I understand the 2500 is heavier duty and would pull better as far as the heavier suspension and the bigger  brakes. I have upgraded my truck to a complete Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors with the trailering pads. I noticed this did make a difference. I am going to tow with the 1500 for now, but will consider a diesel 2500 in the future, as I don't feel like doing the tuner thing and upgrades on one of those.

 

Expensive future decision for towing a travel trailer 5-6 times a year.  If new, $10,000 initial investment over a comparable gas HD, DEF, $90 oil changes, $60 fuel filters, two trans filters, fuel is creeping up to $3.00/gal, etc.  Keep that in mind as well. 

Edited by newdude
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Expensive future decision for towing a travel trailer 5-6 times a year.  If new, $10,000 initial investment over a comparable gas HD, DEF, $90 oil changes, $60 fuel filters, two trans filters, fuel is creeping up to $3.00/gal, etc.  Keep that in mind as well. 
That's why I will never go back to a diesel...owned diesels for many yearsand put in a LOT of seat time, I bought this 6.0l and have never looked back.

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On 3/10/2018 at 4:38 PM, DONWT15 said:

noticed the truck has been leveled. Not really comfortable with that if you want to tow near max capacity. It shifts weight towards the back of the truck reducing your "effective" load.

 

To clarify this a bit, a level has virtually no measurable effect on the load distribution of the truck, but it can cause other adverse effects.  Depending upon how high you go and what type of kit it is, they generally reduce your available extension travel.  When towing a bumper pull trailer, your front end will rise some more, further reducing extension travel and stretching your suspension angles even farther from stock which can adversely affect ride/handling/steering.  Yes, everybody does it and it usually doesn't cause massive problems, but generally speaking if one is going to be towing a lot he may want to keep the amount of leveling minimal to moderate so he's not stretching things to the max before the trailer is even hooked up.  For dual use lots of offroad/lots of towing, a proper 4" lift really is a better way to go.

 

On 3/10/2018 at 2:21 PM, sdeeter19555 said:

I don't care how much they bloat the tow ratings for a 1500.

 

Yeah, that sentiment may have had some merit 10-15 years ago, but it really has no basis in fact in this post-SAE J2807 world.  While certainly not perfect, the current ratings are the most meticulously derived, scientifically based ratings we've ever had in history.  And they're backed up by real-world testing, proving the truck can safely handle the max sized trailer through a myriad of performance, handling and braking tests.

 

The best thing about implementing J2807 over the last decade or so is that the truck makers have made the trucks better because of it.  Much stronger hitches, frames, bigger brakes, bigger axles, better grade braking,  integrated trailer brake controlers, trailer sway control, etc really have made the trucks more capable and much safer when towing large trailers.  If anything, it's the ratings for older trucks I'd call "bloated."  Just because they were lower doesn't mean the trucks were as safe at those ratings.

Edited by Jon A
Grammar!

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The trailer has to able to stop its own weight. The load needs to be centered. The tow vehicle matters less than people think. The trailer matters the most.


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7 hours ago, Jon A said:

they generally reduce your available extension travel.

This is the main concern.

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