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By Jonathan Floyd
I was hoping y’all could help me on my decision. I have a 2019 custom trail boss 5.3 with AFM 6 speed. I called the local dealership here and asked how my warranty would be effected if I disable the AFM. They told me “as long as that tune didn’t cause the damage of whatever i bring the truck in for all is well.” So they recommended me to a local tuner here in town which was surprising. I called him and he said to disable my AFM it would cost around 500. I do know about the range device but I don’t want to to deal with the battery issues it can cause if you mistakenly leave it plugged in. My other option is the hand held tuners such as a diablo. I have zero experience with them but I am going to put in a cold air intake and flow master 44 exhaust in the future. Would my best bet be the Diablo tuner to disable the AFM and use it to adjust my truck to my other mods or go with the professional tuner?
By Jonathan Floyd
Has anyone ever got a custom tune to delete the AFM on their truck? I contacted my dealership about it and they gave me a local tuners number. I understand that it could possibly void my warranty if deleting the AFM causes a problem. But has anyone deleted their AFM and had issues? As well what cost should I expect to see to have a tuner delete the AFM.
I just ordered a Rough Country leveling kit for my 2019 Silverado. I know I can install it myself but will I need an alignment? Has anyone actually installed one of these on a 2019? Did it throw the alignment off? Was just curious if I should spend the money getting an alignment or not. Thanks in advanced. I have a newer body style 2019 if it makes a difference.
By Brad OSullivan
New to the forum here, and I have a 2005 chevy silverado 1500 with the 5.3L. I drive to and from michigan from chicago for college every couple of weeks. The last time I drove up to michigan 2 hours into my drive the oil pressure gauge started slowly moving down from 40psi. Every 10 minutes it seemed it moved down a notch until it got to 15psi and then I pulled over just to investigate because the truck was running perfectly normal and no warning lights or anything were on. I did a walk around, no leaks, no engine noise and the oil level was in the same place as when I left. Also when I stopped the pressure gauge dropped to 0 at idle and the truck idled normal. I continued to drive till i got to my destinations 30 minutes later. The next day when I started it back up the oil pressure is now reading normal and has read normal for the last week. I went to tech school and I know my way around an engine and i'm almost positive this isn't a mechanical issue, im thinking its the oil pressure sensor or sending unit or it could be the gauge itself because first gen silverados are famous for bad gauges but i feel if it was a bad sensor there would be warning lights? Not sure though, any of you guys experience an issue like this or have any idea of what to check or what it could be?? Much appreciated!!
By Kenidoesit Bigg
This is one for the ages to me. The truck has the correct: FUEL PRESSURE: 60psi SPARK: verified visually [AND WITH STARTING FLUID] correct injector pulse [verified by test light signal from ecm, test light neg to batt positive, test lead to INJ signal] and I went a step further unbolted the fuel rail and visually verified spray from all 8 injectors].
THE TRUCK WILL RUN --- OFF OF STARTING FLUID
There is also a shrader valve on the passenger side [Fuel pressure verified and in spec 58-62psi] I used Autel scan tool to verify and slightly boost the rail presssure, STILL NO START -- IT STARTS AND DIES IMMEDIATELY, as if the injectors are being cut off.
The throttle body was replaced 1 year + ago, but the truck has been driving since then, using the existing thrott body... until now.
NO CODES COME UP EXCEPT THE HEATED SEAT BACK -- on a system-wide scan.
I did notice that if i unplug the INJector harness connector (only did the driver's side) that NO CODES will come up either,
as if the ECM doesn't care if i unplugged the harness connector to the fuel INJectors, NO MALFUNCTION REPORTS it.
ANY IDEAS that experienced techs with Silverado LTZ 2013 would be great if anyone else has seen this before, THANKS.
NO PASSLOCK MESSAGES
However I do notice that the ENGINE (symbol) STAYS SOLID WHILE CRANKING -- I dont know what this means on a 2013 Silverado, if any
thing..if anyone knows.. please HELP!
I will include here more info from my notes:
Tools: Autel MaxiSys
various jumper wires
THREW AT IT SO FAR: Crankshaft position sensor [Advance Auto, $40]
Oil Pressure Sensor (hoping it's failure was a failsafe, NOT!) Autozone $75! OUCH! that was NOT it!
8 A/C DELCO Spark Plugs, $7.99! They were sludgy, but NOPE, that ain't it either! $65
IF I Quickly cycle the key, just BUMPS at a TIME, im sure injectors are shooting fuel when that is being done, so
after about 5 or 6 BUMPS like that, the engine will run, BUT SUDDENLY DIES when that
fuel burns .. 2 - 3 SECONDS.. Never ran into one this tough
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