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By Christopher Replogle
So I have 1997 suburban 1500 2wd 5.7l went to install a train nor the other day didn't get around to it I might add. Had battery disconnected for a bit. Next day it started out driving fine. Felt a wierd flutter going down the highway. Stopped at the store and could barely reverse took basically sitting on the pedal keeping rpm a little over 1200. Went in to drive just fine. By the next stoplight take off felt sluggish. Now it will barely get to moving at all. Electrical issue or what???? RpMs solid at idle around 650, doesn't have the mysterious rough idle or anything like that chased that's thru a full engine rebuild just about with my last suburban. Haven't had this one too long but seemed well taken care of I'm the second owner a school had it before me. So I figure all the maintenance was kept up. Got about 145,000 miles on it trans fluids clean and around proper levels. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping its not a transmission failure don't see that just happening out of the blue without prior signs or behavior
Recently had battery drain drastically on my 2016 1500. Does not want to charge on the battery charger. I can get it to start and, when running, the cruise control doesn't work and the USB ports on the center console don't seem to work; however, the USP port inside the storage area of the console does work.
Only thing I had done differently lately is involves messing around with the cruise control, based on reading something in the manual that said that if I held down the cruise control "set" button while in park with the e brake on it would idle at a set RPM. That never happened, but there may be some consistency between doing that and the problems I am having.
Yesterday on GM Authority (they had a story about vehicle-mounted keyless entry key pads (not fobs) http://gmauthority.com/blog/2019/10/keyless-entry-keypad-offered-as-gm-accessory-for-buick-chevy-and-gmc/. After a little more research and reading I have found that you can buy it as a kit and have the dealer or someone else install it. So I have a couple of questions.
1. Can I get it for my 2014 Silverado LT?
2. Does the installer need to be a dealership technician?
3. What is the general quality review of the new system?
Keyless Entry Keypad GM Accessory For Buick, Chevy, GMC _ GM Authority.html
Newbie to this site. We have inherited a 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 from a uncle who has passed away. It has 76000 miles on it and has been garage kept. Upon receiving it I had it looked over by Goodyear service center since I was concerned about the brakes. They found nothing wrong but sold me services that I really didn’t need....my fault there. The dealer found lots of problems with the brakes at a cost of 2500.00. They now work fine. The reason for that intro is I’m wondering if Goodyear service did something to my truck, some type of sabotage, like they did to me 20 years ago with some radiator hoses, so last night I went to move the truck to use another vehicle, it had no power, no lights of any kind, no instrument panel. So I trickle charged it all night. Come this morning the charger light was green so I tried to start it, again, no power.
I tried jumping it with a electrical starter that I had bought my uncle for times like this. It would not jump, I tried that machines trickle feature and it sounded and flashed like a turn signal...tick....tick...tick, so I pulled the battery and had it tested. It had 9 volts and the service tech said things didn’t look right, so I bought a new battery. Now we come to the good part.
Placed the new battery in, made sure it was clamped down, the terminals were protected with a battery spray, everything looked good and when I hooked up the terminals the horn would blare and the lights would flash causing me to jump. I tried postive first and then negative first, I checked fuses, I checked the grounds that I could find, all in a 100+ degree day.
So I figure it electrical but not sure how to track it down. The vehicle is stock and has never had a problem like this before. I have read that changing out the neg. battery cable might work, but this seems a bit different. I still think it might be sabotage for more business from Goodyear, but I hope not.
Any ideas on where to start looking or things to check to provide more clues?
Thanks to all.
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