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Good Morning. I have a 2015 Silverado...with the sunroof stuck in the open position...the dealership has replaced the slide open switch twice...but its still stuck open and now my warranty is gone and repair cost are tottaly on me...is there a possible retraining techniques that i can try?
I recently noticed that my brake pedal adjustment switch is not causing my pedals to adjust once the switch is activated. The height between my brake pedal and gas pedal is pretty significant. Is there a specific fuse that I should try replacing or something else I could try before bringing to a mechanic? I recently had to have my booster replaced so I am uncertain if the system was reconfigured correctly.
Any help is appreciated.
Well, I thought it might be a few years before coming to a forum to seek some help!
I currently have a 2019 GMC Sierra SLT with 4x4, standard box length, 6.2L engine with tow package added, at around 20000kms (around 12K miles?) And I have been running premium fuel in that beast since day one.
My engine made a few pinging noises one day while going up a small hill, then the MIL engine light came on. It hasn't made those noises since. I took it to the local dealer to scan, but the first time they took it in, they did a programming upgrade (recall) to the computer before scanning it for codes, so it erased all history and cleared the MIL engine light. About a month later, the light came on again, no engine noise this time. I took it back to the dealer, due to COVID regulations I couldn't be in the vehicle when they scanned it, so that service advisor cleared the light and codes. (Double piss-of now) It came on a third time, after 2 weeks since it cleared and it was the Knock sensor again.. This time I wouldn't leave the truck while they diagnosed with the scanner.
Code: P0328 - Knock Sensor Circuit High bank 1
It has been in the shop now for 4 working days, and the advisor called me today:
-They took a fuel sample and sent it to the lab for GM to confirm I had been running premium fuel in the truck.
-They believe that there may be a "parasitic draw' on the wiring harness from the ECM to knock sensor
-They found lower than normal voltages at the knock sensor
-They have wait to be advised by GM Canada to go ahead to replace the wiring first, then the knock sensor and the possibly the ECM if the lower voltage doesn't rectify
Would a faulty knock sensor cause pinging in the engine?
Apparently with this model year and config there has been two vehicles previously exhibiting these conditions. One was from an individual running a higher than normal ethanol blended, lower octane fuel. The other had wiring harness issues. Apparently there is no specific TSB related to this exact issue, although wiring harnesses seem to pop up in question in other threads.
I will keep the thread updated. Any insight appreciated.
All parts came off 2017 Silverado LTZ 4x4 with 15K miles. Located in Los Angeles.
Would prefer local pick-up but will ship if buyer pays for shipping.
Front strut assembly with 2.5 in Motofab leveling kit installed (Pair) - $150 obo
OE Rear Shocks (Pair) - $75 obo
OE Front Knuckles (Pair) - $75 obo
By Luke Millard
So, I think this is a obvious question but I would like to be sure im not missing anything. I want to add a auxiliary battery to my 09 silverado but after looking into the system I would really prefer not to mess with both the cost and wiring of a traditional two battery system with a isolator. I was wondering though is it un reasonable to just throw a deep cycle battery and wire what I want to it (bed lights, 12v ports in bed, maby a few others) and then basically have it as its own electrical system with nothing connected to the first battery or grounded to body? I could then just use a charger to recharge it when it died? If anyone else has any other similar system or other ideas any help would be appreciated. I've also considered just hooking everything to a low voltage disconnect but I assume I would not get much use from just that.
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