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Hello everyone, new to the forum, been lurking for a while finally decided to make an account. I have a 2017 Silverado LT Z71 with the stamped steel UCA's. I ordered the ReadyLift UCA/ 2.25" level kit because I've read so much on the issues with the factory control arms that I wanted to level my truck the right way (although it meant costing me an arm and a leg). Today I took the truck to my buddy shop, put the truck on the lift, swapped out the driver side control arm and well to us it looks like the shaft of the ball joint doesn't go in far enough into the knuckle. Another guy that works at the shop came by and thought the same thing. As if the shaft is thicker than the factory one and doent go in far enough. Not sure if thats how it is supposed to be or what but we decided to take it off and just see what ready lift says.

Here are a few pictures, any info is appreciated especially if there is anyone out there running the control arms. Thanks in advance.

IMG_0834.thumb.jpg.a67585fef79b13821cfd5886c7f4d185.jpg

IMG_0835.jpg

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Hello everyone, new to the forum, been lurking for a while finally decided to make an account. I have a 2017 Silverado LT Z71 with the stamped steel UCA's. I ordered the ReadyLift UCA/ 2.25" level kit because I've read so much on the issues with the factory control arms that I wanted to level my truck the right way (although it meant costing me an arm and a leg). Today I took the truck to my buddy shop, put the truck on the lift, swapped out the driver side control arm and well to us it looks like the shaft of the ball joint doesn't go in far enough into the knuckle. Another guy that works at the shop came by and thought the same thing. As if the shaft is thicker than the factory one and doent go in far enough. Not sure if thats how it is supposed to be or what but we decided to take it off and just see what ready lift says.
Here are a few pictures, any info is appreciated especially if there is anyone out there running the control arms. Thanks in advance.
IMG_0834.thumb.jpg.a67585fef79b13821cfd5886c7f4d185.jpg
IMG_0835.thumb.jpg.6c74bfdd11a400f6930286bb0383980c.jpg

That is definitely not right, looks like they sent you UCA’s for the aluminum


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2 minutes ago, tndeerhunter125 said:


That is definitely not right, looks like they sent you UCA’s for the aluminum


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yeah not sure, sent them an email because they were already closed. Part number I ordered is 66-3086

Edited by MallCrawlZ71
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But on they're site this is the kit made for the 16.5 and up silverado's with stamped steel control arms AND it says it can be used on previous models as well! 

That’s odd, i know that I had a friend order some for his stamped steel from rough country and they sent the ones for aluminum, they looked like yours do in the pic. The shaft is bigger on the aluminum control arms than the stamped


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The ball joints on my Zone lift had a very small gap between the rubber and the spindle but not that bad


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That is what we thought! Didn’t seem right so we put it back to stock for now. Going to see what ReadyLift has to say tomorrow. Already did some more reading and it appears to be the correct part so not sure...


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There are no instructions anywhere, no reviews. It is a pretty new product but I’m sure there has to be already someone out there running it! Got this screen shot from they’re video where they introduced the product and looks to me like it’s sitting just about like what line looked like 175c9de6bb5129bfd96bc8896dfa5129.jpg


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I’m curious to here what they have to say as well, as I’m about to pull the trigger on that kit, but I agree that doesn’t look right to me. Seems to me there would be similar type stress on that ball joint similarly to just installing the level on the stock stamped steel UCA. 

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So sent ReadyLift these same exact pictures and they said it looks good and that’s the way they go. Said there’a no way they sent me the wrong control arms. And can’t return them since one was already “installed”


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Since they screwed you, you could go get a tapered reamer and open up the holes in the spindle and make them fit right.  The ball stud has a tapered section and that section should fit 100% in the hole, but not be recessed into the hole.  The picture above is tough to tell but it does not appear to go deep enough into the hole.  Be careful not it go too far, make sure you still have enough threads to make it tight without washers.

 

I'm also a bit shocked by the ball joint angle.  I thought the aftermarket arms were supposed to relieve some of the angle so the joints aren't over extended.  The joint in the picture appears to be at or very near max deflection.

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