Jump to content
  • Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!

    In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience. 

Recommended Posts

On 6/13/2019 at 1:13 AM, RickertsRed said:

So I’m reviving this thread because I had a very similar issue just recently and the fix was simple so hopefully it’ll help you guys.

 

My ‘17 Sierra 3500 started with the door ajar issue, I tried slamming it, playing with the accordion wire harness in the door frame, I even took the door panel off and pulled apart all the connectors to see if there were loose or frayed wires or possible corrosion. Pulled out a multimeter and checked everything; all good. None of the above fixed my problem.

 

Then I started getting the “service trailer brake” and “trailer disconnected” randomly. Sometimes with a trailer attached, sometimes without. Seemed odd to me, but I didn’t even bother troubleshooting.

 

Next I started getting “Service Stabilitrak” randomly and sporadically.

 

Ok ok now I’m thinking WTF is going on here. So I disconnected both batteries and pulled every single fuse and reset it (checked to see if it was popped in the process). I didn’t even check to see which fuse I pulled, just pull, inspect, replace.

 

The length of the whole battery and fuse process took me about 2 beer, throwing a ball for the dog periodically, playing referee for two toddlers who love to fight and VIOLLA... the door ajar, trailer brake, and stabiltrak all fixed in one swoop.

 

Hope this helps the next guy.

You said 2 beer long... I'll try that.

Seriously, I have a similar problem. Started with rear door driver side. No windows power and door ajar warning. Lock works fine.

Recently (months later) in front driver door. No windows power (for all windows from this switch) and door ajar warning. Child Lock and lock / Mirror control works fine. 

Other windows works fine from there own switch.

I've already tear apart the door and saw no sings of loose wires or corrosion also put dialectic grease. 

 

For the front door:

Motor Option :If the door ajar is linked to the window motor, it make sense the window does not roll down and the door ajar display would show. But would that fail to roll down other windows for the master switch?? 

Harness option : only If not the window motor.

 

Anyone have suggestion? 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/22/2019 at 11:26 AM, XAV said:

You said 2 beer long... I'll try that.

Seriously, I have a similar problem. Started with rear door driver side. No windows power and door ajar warning. Lock works fine.

Recently (months later) in front driver door. No windows power (for all windows from this switch) and door ajar warning. Child Lock and lock / Mirror control works fine. 

Other windows works fine from there own switch.

I've already tear apart the door and saw no sings of loose wires or corrosion also put dialectic grease. 

 

For the front door:

Motor Option :If the door ajar is linked to the window motor, it make sense the window does not roll down and the door ajar display would show. But would that fail to roll down other windows for the master switch?? 

Harness option : only If not the window motor.

 

Anyone have suggestion? 

 

 

 

It was more like a 6 pack job but It was definitely the harness for both doors. I had to pull the harness completely out of the door before I could see any cut wires. Once done, I've pulled the rubber boot back as far has I could and than I could finally find the faulty wires. Welded it back and now its as good as new. 

Not that hard to reach and can be fix for really cheap.

Truck is 2014 Silverado 1500 

 

Symptoms were :

Rear door driver side. No windows power and door ajar warning. Lock works fine. (Also a Services Airbag displayed part of the problems.)

Front driver door. No windows power (for all windows from this switch) and door ajar warning. Child Lock and lock / Mirror control works fine. 

 

Hope this is useful for someone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 2014 silverado crew cab. Rear left door ajar message stayed on and my window wouldnt roll down on the same door.  I took apart the harness from the door to the body and the black wire in the harness had broken off from the connector.  Gm doesnt want to sell me just the connector so I soldered it back together and everything works again.  Check the wires in that connection behind the rubber boot against the body of the truck.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/11/2018 at 10:05 AM, GMTrucktech11 said:

Hello everyone.  I work as a tech for GM and have for years.  I found this topic after searching it online.  GM has no information regarding this issue but after my findings I filed a field service report with GM to make sure they are aware.  

Last week I had a customer bring his '17 Sierra into the dealership with the exact issues stated earlier, door ajar message and drivers window didn't work.  Both issues were  intermittent.  I checked for any literature that could assist in pinpointing the root cause, and found none.  So I started from scratch.  The window open/close signal and door ajar signal are on the same GMLAN communication circuit.  That circuit runs through the window motor (driver) assembly. Ultimately I found heavy corrosion in the connector to the window motor and the pigtail to the harness.  I replaced the motor and pigtail and fixed the customers issue.  Here are some pictures of my findings.  If you don't find corrosion in the pigtail look very close at the window motor pins. 

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

So I have gotten this far. My connections look EXCEPTIONALLY clean.

I can also find no evidence that the green/yellow is out of the pigtail. Upon reconnecting the door panel to see if I could get up and running again, I am still left with no power and a door ajar. 

What would be your next step of troubleshooting?

Thanks,
Matt

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey all, after fishing the wiring harness out of the door I have found the issue. Underneath the the rubber boot in the door jam, right where the fitting goes into the door, my green/yellow wire is cut clean. It almost looks like somebody cut it with a pair of scissors.
Everyone having these issue is effed up.
I’m going to add a little bit of wire to give it some length so it’s not tight tight, and then solder and heat shrink. This will resolve my issue as there is no corrosion. I will post a picture when I get computer access.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IMG_6024.jpg

IMG_6025.jpg

Edited by 74Sprint17SierraATX
  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I pulled my harness and it is the same green wire as yours.  Is it possible to repair without having to remove/fish it out and can you re-twist and use electrical tape?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/20/2019 at 10:32 AM, 74Sprint17SierraATX said:

Hey all, after fishing the wiring harness out of the door I have found the issue. Underneath the the rubber boot in the door jam, right where the fitting goes into the door, my green/yellow wire is cut clean. It almost looks like somebody cut it with a pair of scissors.
Everyone having these issue is effed up.
I’m going to add a little bit of wire to give it some length so it’s not tight tight, and then solder and heat shrink. This will resolve my issue as there is no corrosion. I will post a picture when I get computer access.

 

Guess I know where I'm looking for my issue in the morning. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Following up... I soldered in about an inch of wire on the break. I also pulled it so there was a bit of slack on both ends. Originally, I was worried that adding wire would somehow mess with the resistance of the wire enough to trigger computer issues or whatever TF else that could go wrong. I have had zero issues and full operation on my door panel.

Todd, I would not have found my break without pulling the harness out. My break was actually behind the fitting that goes into the door. My second pic is a bit deceiving. I pulled the door jam boot back  past where the the fitting met the door so I could have more access. I would not recommend your method as you will most likely cause more tension and another break soon thereafter. I would add a bit of wire for sure. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/19/2019 at 3:28 PM, 74Sprint17SierraATX said:

Following up... I soldered in about an inch of wire on the break. I also pulled it so there was a bit of slack on both ends. Originally, I was worried that adding wire would somehow mess with the resistance of the wire enough to trigger computer issues or whatever TF else that could go wrong. I have had zero issues and full operation on my door panel.

Todd, I would not have found my break without pulling the harness out. My break was actually behind the fitting that goes into the door. My second pic is a bit deceiving. I pulled the door jam boot back  past where the the fitting met the door so I could have more access. I would not recommend your method as you will most likely cause more tension and another break soon thereafter. I would add a bit of wire for sure. 

@74Sprint17SierraATXWas this the driver door or passenger? Thanks for the info!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/22/2018 at 10:23 PM, kmyndiuk said:

Have a new power window motor on its way. Hopefully get it replaced on Saturday, will update then.

How did you end up fixing this?  Mine just did the exact same thing. Windows don't work, door ajar light constantly, and no horn on locking

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/20/2019 at 11:32 AM, 74Sprint17SierraATX said:

Hey all, after fishing the wiring harness out of the door I have found the issue. Underneath the the rubber boot in the door jam, right where the fitting goes into the door, my green/yellow wire is cut clean. It almost looks like somebody cut it with a pair of scissors.
Everyone having these issue is effed up.
I’m going to add a little bit of wire to give it some length so it’s not tight tight, and then solder and heat shrink. This will resolve my issue as there is no corrosion. I will post a picture when I get computer access.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

IMG_6024.jpg

IMG_6025.jpg

Does the Door skin need to be removed in order to pull full harness out???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Bought a replacement harness, and had it in the garage for months.

Finally, after hearing the old lady whine over and over again about no power windows and constant door open reminder, warm weather gave me some motivation to change out the harness.

It was quite easy.

Sure enough, broken wire was the problem.

GM really boned this design, such a awkward curve that is constantly opened and closed over and over that has such thin wires. Complete joke.

$94 for the piece was the cheapest I could find.

 

Having it open, gave me the oppertunity to spray some rust preventer in there also. 🙄  
 

E97B4393-CFCB-401C-B23D-95F88108FEE9.jpeg

Edited by BNSF

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/10/2018 at 10:26 AM, 205harleyman said:

Got oil change yesterday, after that it tells me drivers door open, interior lights work, windows do not let down from drivers control, but will on other doors from their switch, and horn doesn’t blow when locking doors with remote.

I am intersted in knowing if the problem was ever rectified and what the solution was? I have a 2016 exact same issue. Dealer says bad window motor and switch. $865 for repair, I am thinking of doing this myself.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By BlaineBug
      Sold
    • By Tyler Sywykk
      My issue is a little bit different however none the less an annoying one. So yesterday i bought some led bulbs off amazon to replace the dome lights in my truck, i got them opened them up all looks good and then go to put them in, and as i did they turned on not an issue however they where to small so i have to return them, i put the old one back in and not lights in the dash and dome lights are acting up. So it was the left front one i tried it in and took it back out no others. Now none of the lights turn on by the button inside the truck. (door lights and turning them on by the small switch which turns them all on works just fine. when the door is open i can now turn the light off by pressing the button. now those issues are a little less of a bother to me, however the radio (which still works perfect) now has no lights, same with the driver info center buttons 4wd actuator light and the lights on the steering wheel lights. All the buttons however still work perfect it is just the lights. Any help is much appreciated !
       
      Truck is a 2008 GMC sierra 2500HD SLE Diesel crew cab long box
    • By JayTrailBoss
      My wife and I were going to have a picnic by the ocean so went on a sandy (beach sand) road, meant for off road vehicles only. I switched to 4 Hi and while drove in the sand at less than 10mph. After about 5 minutes or so I had warnings of "service ESC" and "steering assist is reduced, drive with care". The truck, which is a 2019 Trail Boss, performed fine and I did not notice any difference in handling. I tried taking off the traction control, putting the truck in park, shutting the truck off for a while, but still the lights stayed on. The lights went off after driving about 5 minutes in 2 Hi. I also recieved emails from OnStar "there is an issue with the ABS system" and "there is an issue with Stabilitrack traction control". I don't think this is normal so it is at the dealer now. They said the initial results are the yaw sensor triggered for some reason...I don't think this is normal, the truck has 800 miles on it, but any ideas what this is or what it means? Thanks. 
    • By colsonerb
      I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 with axles off of a 1993 ford f350. The chevy had abs brakes but the for axles do not, so I have the abs wire disconected. How do I remove the service brake system message and abs warning light?
    • By RickyEMT
      "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK"
       
      Has anyone ever came across this before?
       
      Let me start from the beginning. On 11/2932013, halfway on my drive from work to home, I noticed that my truck would "sputter" and the rpm would fluctuate when giving it some gas while going up a hill/incline (interstate). Once I was done with the hill/incline, everything would smooth out. Closer to home, once again, I would only notice the "sputter-like" reaction and rpm fluctuating slightly when giving it gas to climb a hill/incline. Made it home fine with no problems or warnings/lights. Upon embarking to work the next morning (11/30/2013), at approximately 5-6 miles from home, I went to give the truck some gas to get above 60 and all of a sudden all these warnings and dings starting going off. My engine warning light illuminated and my traction control light came on and I noticed some warnings scrolling through at the bottom saying: "ENGINE POWER REDUCED, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL, SERVICE STABILITRAK". it blew my mind! Meanwhile, I noticed my truck slowing down no matter how much gas I gave it. I was coming to a road intersection just ahead and preceded to turn around and pull over to investigate. I couldn't understand what was going on so since I was close to home, I just "limped" it back home and not getting over 40-45 mph. Got home and shut engine off and called my job. I went back out later before my ride got there to pick me up, and started my truck. It started fine and I didn't notice any "sputtering" like before, however the engine light is still illuminated. I can't do anything until this Wednesday anyway. Is there someone that has come across this before? The day it happened I Google'd to my heart's content and found that I am not alone, however I did notice that there can be a number of things that could cause this. Would any of this be covered under a warranty? How would I know if I still have warranty on my truck? I need some expert advice on this. Here is my truck info to the best of my knowledge:
       
      2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT
      Taupe Gray
      5.3 L V8
      Crew Cab
       
      Any help will be greatly appreciated!
       
      Thanks,
       
      R. Ashley
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    222,633
    Total Topics
    2,384,021
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    211,507
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Kineticarts
    Newest Member
    Kineticarts
    Joined
  • Who's Online   55 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,704 Guests (See full list)



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.