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Is max trailer worth cost


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Hello all I'm in the market for my first truck and can't find the information that I'm really looking for, it's all vague and appears to me could be a costly mistake if I don't become informed. I am looking into a 6.2l  with the higher rear axle Gmc slt crew cab short box. I want it to be a good solid daily driver and in summer carry a travel trailer for myself and wife and son. Now I already want enhanced driver package and crew cav premium plus slt package for when the wife drives, so my question is that is max trailering needed for this set up? 

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First, you need to determine if you NEED Max Trailering. Without it, the 4x4 6.2 CCSB has a max payload of 1690 and max towing of 9100. With it, there's a max payload of 2030 and max towing of 11,600.

 

If you don't NEED it, you then need to decide if you WANT it. Max trailering is going make the truck ride a little stiffer without a trailer and get slightly worse fuel economy when not towing. Without Max Trailering, you'll get slightly better MPG when not towing, but your MPG will dive lower when you are towing and the truck will "feel" more weighed down.

 

The first one is easy - do the math. If it becomes a matter of choice, you have to add in things like how many miles will you tow versus not? A high percentage of towing miles, or towing through hilly terrain (meaning anything not completely flat) is going to a bit more "frustrating" without the Max Trailering package.

 

For me, I have the 3.42 rear end with the 5.3L motor. I have a 10k equipment trailer that I will drag behind me about 50 miles/year. Even when it's loaded and representing about 7500lbs of tow weight, I still can navigate my areas fairly easily. And, even though the MPG drops to single digits for those runs, I more than offset with the higher mileage for all of the rest of the driving I do (about 24k overall per year). I wouldn't opt for the Max Trailering because it doesn't represent a real benefit -FOR ME-.

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Max trailer package has the hideous mirrors, so I opt not to go for it when I purchased my truck.  I did make sure my truck had an integrated brake controller though - highly recommend you make sure your truck has one because you can't add the factory brake controller later on. 

 

I regularly tow heavy loads, but not 10k though.   I have firestone airbags in my truck and it's a fantastic compromise.  Stock ride when I want it, and stiffer ride when I have a load.

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Thanks for that information, I guess all I really want (when I actually tow when I need in summer) is to tow a travel trailer and am unsure of towing cap. I would like to be efficient and uncertain of how to read things when you say the 6.2 max tow is roughly 9000 does that mean a travel trailer or is what's included in cab count? Also would a 5.3l and 3.42 rear with max trailer be a good option? 

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22 minutes ago, Truknoob said:

Thanks for that information, I guess all I really want (when I actually tow when I need in summer) is to tow a travel trailer and am unsure of towing cap. I would like to be efficient and uncertain of how to read things when you say the 6.2 max tow is roughly 9000 does that mean a travel trailer or is what's included in cab count? Also would a 5.3l and 3.42 rear with max trailer be a good option? 

4x4 CCSB w/ 6.2 -without- Max Trailer has a 9100 lb TOW capacity. It also has a cargo capacity of 1690 which needs to include you, passengers, anything in the bed -AND- the tongue weight from the trailer. A 9k trailer should be transferring somewhere around 1000-1200 lbs (give or take) to the truck. That leaves you with 490-690 to account for anything in the bed, the back seat, and passengers.

 

If you add Max Trailer, you have a limit of gross weight for the trailer of 11,100 and cargo capacity of 2030. The trailer should be expected to transfer somewhere around 1200-1400 lbs to the truck, leaving you with between 630 and 830 for you, passengers, back seat and bed cargo.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that you can often put ALL of your "stuff" inside the TT, adding to its total weight. That way, 1000lbs of cargo in the trailer only adds about 125 lbs to the truck (leaving you with more room to handle passenger weight.

 

The only way you can really know for sure is to weigh everything. You should have access to the dry weight of the trailer. Add in EVERYTHING that you plan on carrying in/on the trailer. Propane tanks plus propane, water, clothes, etc. If you are not 100% sure of the weight of stuff you plan to take with you, pack it all into whatever vehicle you're currently driving and hit the scales. Then go back without all of that stuff and weigh again. The difference is the weight of the stuff you will be loading in the trailer. Weigh WITH everything first and without second. Do NOT fuel the vehicle up in between. This will give you just a little bit of grace weight because you will be weighing the second time without your cargo AND without a small amount of fuel in the vehicle.

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I persoanlly dont think its necessary unless you are towing everyday or using the truck strictly as a work horse. I dont like tow mirrors, especially on a 1500. they are uneccesary for most trailers IMO. my dad has a 6.2 non Max tow and I have towed 10k with it multiple times with no issues at all it towed great. 

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1 hour ago, Truknoob said:

Thanks for that information, I guess all I really want (when I actually tow when I need in summer) is to tow a travel trailer and am unsure of towing cap. I would like to be efficient and uncertain of how to read things when you say the 6.2 max tow is roughly 9000 does that mean a travel trailer or is what's included in cab count? Also would a 5.3l and 3.42 rear with max trailer be a good option? 

Don't forget that even the v-6 will get a travel trailer moving on a flat road. Buying more engine only helps with acceleration. The 3.42 axle is a good median gear ratio to give you more torque, but not kill your mileage when daily driving.

 

To control your trailer with a cross wind, or stopping for an accident in front of you, adverse weather conditions, etc. require the tow vehicle to have the weight, springs and brakes designed for the towed load. That's why the smarter truck for a large, heavy trailer is a 3/4 ton. But most people have no use for that heavy of a truck the rest of the year.

 

Lots of people pull travel trailers with stock half-tons and don't have problems, there are bolt-on springs and mirrors and weight distributing hitches that can help you out. If you are only a weekend warrior a couple times a year, you really don't need the max trailering. What you need to do is become used to the stopping distance and how to handle the trailer when conditions aren't optimal. Just be smart and be safe.

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KMGZ400 you advised you've towed with the 6.2 non max, was that a decent distance or just flat road down street? I'd like to travel to camping areas, beaches, and national parks all over the country. Maybe a few weeks or a week out of the year. 

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I couldn't agree more on the topic of being familiar and OVERLY cautious when towing, especially if you don't do it a lot. Leave a LOT of extra room, and a LOT of extra time to make the trip to wherever you're going. You're not going to be flying down the highway at 75 with three extra tons of weight behind you. At least not safely.  :)

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I'll disagree with some here and say the tow mirrors are probably the most useful thing you get with the NHT package.  With a large trailer you'll be really blind with the standard mirrors.  You can use clip-ons or add tow mirrors yourself (as I did) but it would be really nice to have them come on the truck in the first place.

 

The second big thing you get is the extra 400 lbs of payload.  How important that is depends largely upon how worried you are about the internet weight police.  It's not a performance/safety issue if you upgrade the truck at all with airbags or the like (which I'd recommend in either case anyway) but you can't change that sticker and it is very easy to exceed.

 

Since you're looking at 6.2's with the 8-speed, gears aren't much of a worry.  If towing in the mountains, you'll be happier with a 6.2 non-NHT than you will with a 5.3 NHT.  

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Thanks for that as well, I'm continuing to look further and it looks like you cant get the 6.2 with the larger rear diff unless you get max trailering. Does this seem correct and are you all aware and commenting based on the information? 

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No, the 6.2 comes with the larger 9.76" rear end with or without the NHT package.  It just isn't listed in the options anywhere if you don't get the NHT.

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I have the 6.2 NHT. It's a 2015 do it's a 8 speed with the 3.42 gears. I test drove a 6.2 non-NHT but didn't get a chance to tow with it. This truck tows awesome for a half ton pickup. That said if I regularly towed heavy (7000# plus) I would get a HD. For the occasional heavy tow it will do fine.. Just be prepared that any LS or Ecotec engine is going to rev pretty high while towing heavy. Takes some getting used to for some of us who grew up driving and working on older vehicles. To me I hated to see it reving 3000 to 4000 rpms on a long up hill grade but I guess it's made for it.
The towing mirrors are awesome for towing but a nuisance when you don't need them. More than once the mirrors have managed to hide a person it even an entire vehicle at intersections. They look really cool though with the LED lights on them though.
I got this truck because I wanted the most capable half ton made and didn't want to "want" for more.
The NHT package rides about like a 3/4 ton with the 20" wheels so keep that in mind.
In hind sight I wouldn't have limited my options to just a NHT.
I'm in construction so it makes sense for me.. At least that's what I tell myself.
Oh..I think you get a extra cooler or 2 on the NHT so that could add to the longevity of the engine/ trans.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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