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jaybird*oh

2000 k2500 5.7 cranks no start

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I have a 2000 k2500 (old style) 5.7 208000 mi, that started and ran good for years, sat 3 weeks, cranks but won't start. Fuel pump pressure ( key on) 62# for 1second ,dropping to 58# and holding.Has spark to plugs and the plugs are dry. When cranking 3-4 seconds ,release key to run the engine wil kick back 1 or 2 times ( like chug-chug ). If cranking 8-10 seconds may chug 3-4 times. Once I cranked it about 15+ seconds it started ,went to high idle for 2 seconds and died. Fuel pressure holds at 55-58 over 1/2 hour ( key off ). I need help. 

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when did they change over to coil on plug? If you still have the old type with distributor cap and rotor button in your 2000 model  that is most likely your culprit. They were really bad about cross firing between the caps interior pins. Typically you will see carbon arc paths  when you pull it off and look at the interior.  

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Yeah, replace cap and rotor.  Then coil too if youre still getting issues.  Sounds like its kinda firing but not enough at the right time to keep it running.  

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The ( chug-chug) that I mentioned was the engine turning backwards after cranking ,then releasing the key back to run position. When cranking there is no indication of it trying to start and it does turn over normally when cranking. I haven't checked the cap and rotor yet as I had to pull it out of the garage for the time being. I'll get back to it when the weather warms up. Thanks for the advice. 

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A couple months ago I was having a no start problem with my 2000 k2500 5.7 pickup. At the time I was getting spark to the two plugs that I had put testers on so I was looking more toward a passlock system problem or maybe insufficient fuel pump pressure. ( It has 58 # cranking ) Calls for 60 - 66 # key on . 3 weeks ago I needed my inside space so I towed it out and let it set. Finely our weather warmed up this week and after a couple warm days in the 60's I tried it and it started right up, then it rained 2 days and back to crank,no start. When I had put my problem on this forum a couple of the suggestions were to replace the distributor cap and rotor. Yesterday I put a new cap and rotor on and it starts and runs good as ever. The inside of the old cap had white crusty buildup around the center and each cylinder contact. I 'm hoping my problems are solved and I want to thank those that gave me good advice.   

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