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Afraid to Ask 3.08 verses 3.42 towing 5,560 #'s UVW


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Thanks for the reply's. The hard part is not knowing exactly what I can pull. Dealers are NO HELP they say oh sure you can pull that! Even though it is 10,000#'s. You know the dealer does not care as long as they get the sale.

 

MY plan is to test pull a friends trailer that weights 6,200#'s and at least then I will know what I can pull. Yes the test will include hills and open highway......

 

Thanks again

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21 minutes ago, 2017Silverado said:

Thanks for the reply's. The hard part is not knowing exactly what I can pull. Dealers are NO HELP they say oh sure you can pull that! Even though it is 10,000#'s. You know the dealer does not care as long as they get the sale.

 

MY plan is to test pull a friends trailer that weights 6,200#'s and at least then I will know what I can pull. Yes the test will include hills and open highway......

 

Thanks again

If your friend will actually let you take the trailer camping once or twice, that would be about the ideal situation, I would think - even if you have to "rent" the trailer from him when you do (small change compared to what it will "cost" you to buy the wrong trailer). If not, maybe there's a place where you actually COULD rent a TT once or twice - check with dealers to see if they'd offer it on a used trailer on their lot.

Edited by ember1205
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The tow ratings generally figure flat land, no wind, ideal conditions, max towing.  If you have hills, wind ect. I try to stay at 50% of the sticker if it's a regular towing job for you.  For once in a while,  75% would probably be ok.   The worst part of towing a TT with a half ton for me was not the power.  When you get into the wind and a semi passes you pulling you into the next lane it sux.  (been there)  

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I would not try to pull a 6200# trailer with a 3.08 geared truck - you'll probably burn out your drive train... Might as well drop the $$ up front and have it re-geared... OR just stick with a lighter trailer.... I do not understand why GM makes trucks with a 3.08 rear end other than EPA rating numbers..

Edited by Imcrazy
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29 minutes ago, Imcrazy said:

I would not try to pull a 6200# trailer with a 3.08 geared truck - you'll probably burn out your drive train... Might as well drop the $$ up front and have it re-geared... OR just stick with a lighter trailer.... I do not understand why GM makes trucks with a 3.08 rear end other than EPA rating numbers..

That's EXACTLY why they do it. And it's also why they make the Colorado/Canyon. Their entire class of "pickup trucks" is covered by every single one they make. In order to achieve EPA standards, they have to achieve it based on the totality of the class. Since there are a LOT of people that do not tow with their trucks, the higher MPG vehicles are great for them and help GM raise the average of the entire class.

 

Have you noticed that Ford no longer makes the Ranger? Ever stop to wonder why? Because they no longer need it to offset the MPG of the larger trucks.

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First check the RPO codes in the glove box to see what equipment is on your truck. Does your truck have the codes for a factory installed external oil cooler and transmission cooler? Does it have the tow mode option?

 

If it does not have the factory installed extra coolers, buy them. If it doesn't have tow mode, there is a problem.. As part of your test, put the truck into tow mode and drive it.. Use the DIC to check oil and transmission temperatures..

A 3.08 will downshift a heck of a lot more than a 3.42... Which will cause your engine oil and transmission oil to get hotter than a 3.42.

 

Your friend's truck may be different so adjust the spring bars on the equalizer hitch until your truck sits level.

 

Swaying is why they call campers "tail waggers" :D A lot of new trucks have a system which uses the trailer brakes to stop yawing, aka tail wagging.. Personally, I prefer a friction brake which is manually adjusted.

 

As the dealers sell trucks and don't engineer them, all they will do is quote the factory rating...

 

As far as what the government has done to trucks; the greatest lies apply.

1. The check is in the mail

2. The problems are fixed in the next software release

3 And, the greatest lie of all is I'm from the government and I'm here to help.

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There is a  SAE standard for OEM (Chevy, Ford, etc) which explains the test procedures...

 

The Davis Dam Grade Arizona State Route 68 is a stretch of road that starts in the Davis Dam area of the Colorado River, close to Laughlin, Nevada, and Bullhead City, Arizona, with an elevation of just about 550 feet. This stretch of highway travels through the Black Mountains and climbs to Highway 93 near Kingman, Arizona. The section used for the SAE J2807 Highway Gradeability Test starts just past the intersection of SR 68 and Highway 95 outside of Laughlin and climbs to more than 3,500 feet in just 11.4 miles.

 

http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/towing/1502-sae-j2807-tow-tests-the-standard/

 

SAE J2807 is well worth reading; the above link is a lot more "entertaining" reading that the boring, dry verbiage of  J2807.. :D

 

I hope this helps clarify the "rules" OEMs must meet with tow ratings..

 

 

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On 4/14/2018 at 5:34 PM, 2017Silverado said:

Have not bought anything yet. I am looking at a Lance 1985 or 1995 Dry Weight is around 4100 on either one...... 

I went to my dealer and got a cost of $4,000.00 to so both front and rear gear change and we were going to bite the bullet and do it, but it turns out that GM will NOT support it and it will void my warranty......... But you know it's OK with them not supporting it it will push me to buying FORD when I am ready for a new truck. I have been a GM guy for well over 40yrs and I am very disappointed they will not support the change. (They refused to give my dealer the codes to change the speedometer and odometer) To be honest my salesman and the Service Manager were also very upset over the whole thing.....  

So you want to do a major aftermarket modification to their drivetrain that they warranty and you are upset that they won't warranty it? :rolleyes: Ford, Dodge, Toyota all won't either; sounds like a great reason to hold a grudge and take your ball and go home! Next time just do your homework and buy the right truck the first time and you won't be in this scenario.

 

Have you talked to the dealer about trading for a 3.42 equipped truck? They might be willing to work much better with you and may only be out $2k and you will get some miles back in warranty...

 

Tyler

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