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Took my 2017 Chevy Silverado z71 to the dealer today . Engine was ticking on top end sounded like a lifter tick and slight deeper knock in bottom end . oil presure was all over the place would go from 65 psi to 25 psi at same rpm. I have 44,000 miles. Has anyone else had this issue? With the strike in play who know how long I will be without my truck.
By Andy Brown
I apologize for the novel, but here we go!
Alright, so 2011 Tahoe 5.3 LMG Flex vin 0, 158k miles, never given me any issues ever before.
Drove it up on ramps last night to get under it to just check everything before I tow a trailer over the weekend. All fine and dandy.
Go to start it to back off of the ramps-dash and running lighter all turn on. Turn the key to ignition and....nothing. If I try to remote start it, I just get an electronic noise.
Took the starter off last night and tested it multiple times at my work (advance auto) and my starter was super dead. Sweet, found my issue, right? Got a new starter. Put it on. Still no crank. No click. No nothing except everything else on the truck acts like it normally would when you turn the key.
I checked connection between the positive terminal on battery and the starter with a multimeter -just fine.
My battery is perfectly fine. Tested it multiple times now. Have a charger. Made sure it's fully charged. Double and triple checked.
Looked at all the applicable fuses I can think ofand swapped the starter relay with the ac relay (they are identical) and it changed nothing.
This then led me to believe maybe the ignition switch in the steering column was bad. Put a new one in today. Same exact issue. It changed absolutely nothing. Everything turns on but no crank and no relay sounds or anything.
Almost thinking that something isn't sending the signal to the little wire connector that is on the starter selenoid (attached to the starter). But I feel like I've checked everything that could block that.
I'm running out of ideas and I NEED (super awesome timing!) this truck to move from Lincoln to Omaha starting tomorrow 😕 ugh
Was wondering if putting 12v constant to that little plug wire on the starter solenoid may skip whatever is not sending the signal, which I guess would just confirm that there's no signal. I dunno. 8+hours into this so far. First time this truck has ever given me issues in 158k miles.
Also, no, it will not start in neutral.
Any tips would be awesome!
I've had a lot of folks ask me about installing my new driveshaft. I will link the thread for the high HP driveshaft. Here is how to remove and install a driveshaft for GM 1500 Trucks. Hope this helps.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands and block the front wheels. Or use a lift.
2. Place the transmission in Neutral with the parking break OFF.
3. Important** Make a reference mark on the driveshaft and the Pinion flange (if keeping original driveshaft) in line with each other.
4. Remove the rear universal joint bolts and retainers. Rotate the shaft in the most convenient way as to not allow the shaft to spin. Try inserting a screwdriver in the shaft yoke to keep the shaft steady.
5.For Two piece shafts remove the fasteners from the center support bearing.
6. On ALL models, tape the bearing caps to the universal join to prevent the caps from coming off during removal
7. Lower the rear of the shaft and slide the front of the shaft out of the transmission or transfer case.
8. cover the transfer case or transmission with plastic wrap or plastic bag to decrease fluid loss or contamination. DONE!!
1. Assuming the oil seal is in good shape slide the front of the driveshaft into the transmission or transfer case.
1.2. On models with two piece shafts raise the center support bearing into position, install the fasteners and torque to 30 FT-Lbs
2. Raise the rear of the drive shaft into position (make sure to align your marks if reusing your current shaft), install the fasteners and tighten to 18 ft-lbs
3. Install the clamps and bolts. Tighten all bolts to 18 ft-lbs.
**FYI The yoke bolts are 118 ft-lbs.
Here is a video from youtube that may help too.
Here is my post about an upgraded driveshaft, 1,200 Hp and 8,300 torque.
I have a grant steering wheel assembly, but I need more insight on how to install. Watched a bunch of videos but couldn't find a good one for what I doing.
Greetings. New guy here, so please freely call me out an any forum missteps.
I started out with a base model 2018 GMC Sierra 4wd, regular cab, standard bed. It has a snow plow package and 3.42 gears. Onyx Black. No frills. I'll try and remember the order in which I did everything. All work do date has been done in my driveway, which I'm reasonably proud of because I work a job where I mostly send emails and sit in meetings.
-- Debadging happened the first day of ownership... just my thing, costs nothing.
-- Blacked out my front badge with with plasti dip
-- Removed the air dam
-- Cover King carpeted dash mat added, in the color of 'wine'.
-- Cover King saddle blanket seat covers added in wine/whiteish.... returned after about a month because they were coming apart at the seams in a quite literal sense. Back to my grey cloth seats.
-- Added a Rough Country 2 inch level (those cheap spacer things that are shaped like 'C'
-- Brow tint on the windshield and multiple layers of Collinite way done by Motoring Images in Lee NH (ok, this wasn't in my driveway)
-- Airaid modular intake and filter added. Sounds great, I'm a fan.
-- Borla ATAK cat back system with polished tips. Sounds wonderful.
-- Diablo Intune3 handheld tuner, custom (non dyno, remote) tuned further for 91+ and some extra oomph by Lew.
-- Mudflaps installed and ultimately removed because they were the no drill kind and drilling would have helped from losing one in a carwash or who knows where, so those are gone.
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