Sign up for FREE! Become a GM-Trucks.com Member Today!
In 20 seconds you can become part of the worlds largest and oldest community discussing General Motors, Chevrolet and GMC branded pickups, crossovers, and SUVs. From buying research to owner support, join 1.5 MILLION GM Truck Enthusiasts every month who use GM-Trucks.com as a daily part of their ownership experience.
By Andy Brown
I apologize for the novel, but here we go!
Alright, so 2011 Tahoe 5.3 LMG Flex vin 0, 158k miles, never given me any issues ever before.
Drove it up on ramps last night to get under it to just check everything before I tow a trailer over the weekend. All fine and dandy.
Go to start it to back off of the ramps-dash and running lighter all turn on. Turn the key to ignition and....nothing. If I try to remote start it, I just get an electronic noise.
Took the starter off last night and tested it multiple times at my work (advance auto) and my starter was super dead. Sweet, found my issue, right? Got a new starter. Put it on. Still no crank. No click. No nothing except everything else on the truck acts like it normally would when you turn the key.
I checked connection between the positive terminal on battery and the starter with a multimeter -just fine.
My battery is perfectly fine. Tested it multiple times now. Have a charger. Made sure it's fully charged. Double and triple checked.
Looked at all the applicable fuses I can think ofand swapped the starter relay with the ac relay (they are identical) and it changed nothing.
This then led me to believe maybe the ignition switch in the steering column was bad. Put a new one in today. Same exact issue. It changed absolutely nothing. Everything turns on but no crank and no relay sounds or anything.
Almost thinking that something isn't sending the signal to the little wire connector that is on the starter selenoid (attached to the starter). But I feel like I've checked everything that could block that.
I'm running out of ideas and I NEED (super awesome timing!) this truck to move from Lincoln to Omaha starting tomorrow 😕 ugh
Was wondering if putting 12v constant to that little plug wire on the starter solenoid may skip whatever is not sending the signal, which I guess would just confirm that there's no signal. I dunno. 8+hours into this so far. First time this truck has ever given me issues in 158k miles.
Also, no, it will not start in neutral.
Any tips would be awesome!
I've had a lot of folks ask me about installing my new driveshaft. I will link the thread for the high HP driveshaft. Here is how to remove and install a driveshaft for GM 1500 Trucks. Hope this helps.
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jack stands and block the front wheels. Or use a lift.
2. Place the transmission in Neutral with the parking break OFF.
3. Important** Make a reference mark on the driveshaft and the Pinion flange (if keeping original driveshaft) in line with each other.
4. Remove the rear universal joint bolts and retainers. Rotate the shaft in the most convenient way as to not allow the shaft to spin. Try inserting a screwdriver in the shaft yoke to keep the shaft steady.
5.For Two piece shafts remove the fasteners from the center support bearing.
6. On ALL models, tape the bearing caps to the universal join to prevent the caps from coming off during removal
7. Lower the rear of the shaft and slide the front of the shaft out of the transmission or transfer case.
8. cover the transfer case or transmission with plastic wrap or plastic bag to decrease fluid loss or contamination. DONE!!
1. Assuming the oil seal is in good shape slide the front of the driveshaft into the transmission or transfer case.
1.2. On models with two piece shafts raise the center support bearing into position, install the fasteners and torque to 30 FT-Lbs
2. Raise the rear of the drive shaft into position (make sure to align your marks if reusing your current shaft), install the fasteners and tighten to 18 ft-lbs
3. Install the clamps and bolts. Tighten all bolts to 18 ft-lbs.
**FYI The yoke bolts are 118 ft-lbs.
Here is a video from youtube that may help too.
Here is my post about an upgraded driveshaft, 1,200 Hp and 8,300 torque.
I have a grant steering wheel assembly, but I need more insight on how to install. Watched a bunch of videos but couldn't find a good one for what I doing.
Greetings. New guy here, so please freely call me out an any forum missteps.
I started out with a base model 2018 GMC Sierra 4wd, regular cab, standard bed. It has a snow plow package and 3.42 gears. Onyx Black. No frills. I'll try and remember the order in which I did everything. All work do date has been done in my driveway, which I'm reasonably proud of because I work a job where I mostly send emails and sit in meetings.
-- Debadging happened the first day of ownership... just my thing, costs nothing.
-- Blacked out my front badge with with plasti dip
-- Removed the air dam
-- Cover King carpeted dash mat added, in the color of 'wine'.
-- Cover King saddle blanket seat covers added in wine/whiteish.... returned after about a month because they were coming apart at the seams in a quite literal sense. Back to my grey cloth seats.
-- Added a Rough Country 2 inch level (those cheap spacer things that are shaped like 'C'
-- Brow tint on the windshield and multiple layers of Collinite way done by Motoring Images in Lee NH (ok, this wasn't in my driveway)
-- Airaid modular intake and filter added. Sounds great, I'm a fan.
-- Borla ATAK cat back system with polished tips. Sounds wonderful.
-- Diablo Intune3 handheld tuner, custom (non dyno, remote) tuned further for 91+ and some extra oomph by Lew.
-- Mudflaps installed and ultimately removed because they were the no drill kind and drilling would have helped from losing one in a carwash or who knows where, so those are gone.
Hey guys just wanted to share tis bit of info that I was able to find. It was difficult locating a driveshaft for a 14+ GM 1500 so I hope this helps.
After spending tons of time trying to find a less complicated way to upgrade my DS I visited alldrivelines.com (referral from a member) and saw the 800hp rated 2 piece shaft. I called to verify compatibility and was let down by the rep. It is not user friendly for the 4x4's.
However, after asking me some great questions Shelby @ Alldrivelines (661) 633-2303 simply said why don't you get our 1,200hp rated driveshaft for the 14+ GM 1500.. I said ..."wait huh". Tell me more. This is currently not listed on the website.
It is a 5" 6061 Aluminum shaft with a .125 wall thickness. It is rated for over 1,200 HP and 7,300 ft tq. She can get the correct size for other models too (bespoke).
I'm running the following with a Stock Trans/Transfer Case and ride hight.
Make: GMC Model: Sierra 1500 Denali Drive: AWD/4WD Loc: Rear Bed: 5'9" Chassis: 143.5"WB Doors: 4 Door
After some negotiating it ended up being $580 SHIPPED from CA to MA!!!. (She also suggested the upgraded billet slip yoke rated 1200hp it was an extra $100 so I'm actually $680.00 shipped)**
Just a heads up folks. If you want a Driveshaft that can handle high speeds, high HP and TQ this is the place to go. Call Alldriveline (661) 633-2303 and ask for Shelby. Mention my last name Melaas and they'll cut you the same deal.
A 1,200 hp rated shaft with the billet yolk for $680 shipped. I don't get anything for it I just asked if I could refer my friends here for the same deal and she said sure. Very nice Lady.
Lastly it is a 2-3 day processing and shipping for me (ca - ma) is about 3-4 days. I should have it next Thursday! I will send pics.
PM if you have any questions.
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 156 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,581 Guests (See full list)
- Phillip Luckart
- Eddie 70
- Malibu SS
- B R A D
- kingscote lake
- GrayGhost Z71
- KJS Sullivan
- Richard Danielewicz
- NWI Denali
- Yodi Murica
- Randy Marsh
- Gone Again
- Grumpy Bear
- lawn boy
- Tyler N
- James J.Mayo
- Aicrag Eirelav
- Derek white
- Doug Stutts
- Tom LeBlanc
- Susan McClendon
- Anthony Amato