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By Derick R
Hello all I'm new to this read forums my entire life when needing help on a issue someone had back in 99. But anyway I have a 2008 Yukon xl 5.3 bought it a few years back quickly realized there was a issue on top of issue. I got screwed and screwed big time. Truck was sold as 168k miles. It was clean nice good looking truck for 4800 bucks. Turns out won't go over 65. We'll we just said screw it and run it for a while until we got our excursion. So now I've been trying to fix it. I need help I've tried refresh at the dealer it sat there for a entire day in a bay with a tech and they couldn't figure it out. So back to the drawing board. Later on tried to trade it in they pulled the carfax trunk our dude swapped the cluster and it was said the last reported mileage was 278k. Well ******. I want to figure out why it will not surpass 65. It has all the gears. Engine has all the power. No limp mode no codes. I have even pulled the cluster and drove it and that didn't change anything. Please help. Thank you. Derick r.
By Arvid Podsim
Reciently the Check Engine Lamp (MIL) came on at start and remainded on with no noticable engine running rough. The error codes were read which indicated 400+ Cold Start error codes on Cylinder No.3. Their are several GM Service Bulletins (PIP5498M, PIP5628E) on this subject V8 on engines from 2000-2022. The bulletins indicate the "Cold Start" causes misfires due to coolant entering the at the liner to deck face casting or the casting line in the intake port of the cylinder head, in my case No. 3. The GM Service bulletins indicate "engine replacement" is needed to fix this problem. I have been very happy about this vehicle however, at 67K miles, this type of issue should NOT be occuring. Apparently GM has know about this problem since 2000-2020 model years described on the attached Service Bulletins.
After Two days of MIL being ON, the lamp is now OFF. My question is how can the problem described repair itself and could the diagonistic codes be attributed to another problem? I was under the impression that once the diagonistic code is initiated, the only method of turning OFF the MIL is by resetting or clearing the codes.
Seen this driving the other day.
Interior looks like an Escalade but rear end makes me think otherwise couldn’t get a look at the front.
By Snake River Wraps
2004 Yukon Denali XL 1500 AWD
Ok, so I have done many brakes in the past but this has me stumped. I put new calipers rotors and pads all the way around on the truck and have bled the brakes like 6 times. twice with a helper and 4 times with a bottle. All times the fluid comes out with no air but it still goes to the floor when its turned on. A small amount of push back is noticed after pumping a few times while the truck is off. But as soon as I turn it on and push its nothing. I have read about there possibly being air in the ABS module and am looking for how to bleed that with just one person and have it actually work. The master cylinder is and has been filled throughout and never dropper too low. I placed all the new parts and puller the hose off the old calipers and attached it to the new ones quickly replacing the copper washers. I just cant figure out what could be happening, any help would be appreciated.
I recently purchased a rebuilt title Yukon, comes with the magnetic ride. The ride is extremely rough, to the point where I’m assuming the system is just not operating. I’m not getting a message on the display for anything, unless the parking sensors and lane change sensors not working have something to do with it. The previous owner said he installed a 2” level kit to help the ride. At the time I didn’t understand what he was talking about. But anyone with any information or previous experience that could spread some knowledge, I would be thankful.
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