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So I have a question don’t get on me for being dumb just want other opinions.
I have a ls2 swapped rado bought the truck on a deal only problem was I couldn’t drive it for more than 20-30mins without getting trans hot on the dash and would go into limp mode but if you cut the engine off for a minute or two and cut it back on message went away for another 20-30mins but the actual trans temps never hit about 180
this is where it all starts.
anyway 1blown torque converter later and a trans rebuild my transmission guy told me the genius put a 2500 ecu in just to get the truck to fire up with a slight tune that pulled like a F****** freight train back to the point he tells me the truck thinks is has a 4l80 in it witch It doesn’t I have a 4l60 he said I needed to take it to a tuner shop asap so I don’t blow my trans or torque converter again because there’s a lot of major differences mainly being gear rations and shift points
witch I thought a tune would fix anyway but I wasn’t for sure so I got the truck tuned by Powerfab autosports and they reflashed the ecu programmed it and did a dyno tune
when I pick up the truck the dude shows me the power chart and the truck made 280hp 360tq
witch I think is way ****ing off but I am not a master mechanic I know a lot about vehicle but not enough to be firm on saying that’s bullshit
Why I needs y’all’s insight is because when the truck was ****ed up and giving trans hot display on dash the ****** was a ****** Ton faster and pulled a boat load harder the ass would squat the truck would drop a gear and scream so beautifully she would literally throw me back in my seat and keep in mind this is with 305/35/24s now it’s just feels like I have a slightly beefed up 4.8
engine mods are air intake long tube headers full exhaust trans cooler and that’s pretty much it as far as I’m aware
does anyone know or have any insight as to what is going on and why I am making such low numbers or where the **** my power went??
and I would appreciate no assholes just need some info thanks!
I have a 2012 Suburban, owned since new. Yesterday the key fob / remote / keyless transmitter stopped working. It stopped, then worked a couple times to unlock, then quit completely. I assumed it was a bad battery (10+ years old), so I replaced it with a new battery, still didn't work. I have the second remote that's only been used a couple times when the keys were "lost", and it doesn't work either. No response from any buttons. I checked the batteries in both, and both batteries are at 3.3 volts. I pulled the DSM fuse for 5 minutes and then disconnected the vehicle battery for 5 minutes, no change. I have tried holding the remote right next to where (I think) the RCDLR is in the left-rear pillar, still no response. The TPMS system works fine, reading all 4 tires correctly with no errors. I hooked up my ODB2 scanner, and it doesn't show any codes.
Do I have two dead remotes? Or has the RCDLR partially stopped working? I called the dealer, all they said was "buy a new remote, your two remotes have died". I asked, why would an unused 10 year old remote die? No answer, just come in and buy one. I have no faith in my dealership's service department based on previous repairs unfortunately, so I thought I'd ask here. My local locksmith will attempt a re-sync for $50, but they said if they're both not working it's not that. Unfortunately this year model won't allow the user to add or reprogram a remote.
Thanks in advance for any ideas of what to try, or what might be the issue.
2017 Silverado LT 5.3 4X4 6speed transmission 51,000 miles
When I first bought the truck the transmission suffered from severe bucking or shudder under light load. GM calls it chuggle. The cause was "intermittent tcc delamination causing scoring on fluid pump". They replaced the torque converter, cover housing and pump cover along with a flush. This was at 10,000 miles. That seemed to solve the chugging problem.
For the last year or so I have noticed that the torque converter unlocks and locks frequently at freeway speeds. When it locks, following an unlock, there is a noticeable lurching forward. This is not neck snapping but is definitely noticeable. This lurching motion also occurs when upshifting 4/5 or 5/6.
While driving at freeway speeds (65 70mph) when I slightly let off the accelerator the rpm's rise about 200 then settle down. If I should slightly press down the same thing happens. However, when driving at a steady freeway speed, and holding steady on the throttle, on level ground I can feel this unlock/lock along with seeing the engine speed move up then settle down. If I engage cruise control on level ground it is worse and occurs more often. But, with cruise control on and there is a slight road incline there is no unlock or downshift. When I press hard on the throttle then it downshifts and accelerates fine.
Locking/unlocking and lurching; I do not recall the transmission behaving like this in the early years. The dealer says if it doesn't throw a code then it is operating normally. I can see that there are times when it should unlock such as when under load, but should it be this happening this frequently and be so noticeable? Or maybe I am being too sensitive?
Anybody experience the same thing? Is this normal transmission behavior?
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