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Does anyone know the specs for the Bose audio?


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1 hour ago, visegrips said:

Some junk box that was $100 on Amazon.  I couldn’t seal it well without ripping the whole thing apart.

http://ground-shaker.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=480&name=black-10-dual-ported-sub-box-fits-chevy-silverado-gmc-sierra-crew-cab-2014-2017&Itemid=104&lang=en

 

ive been checking these out but I haven’t seen or heard anybody using them so I’m curious how good they are

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anyone got a link to the kicker plug and play sub?... .. i agree with some of the posts.. i think the bose sounds good.. i feel the thump from the small sub, but would like to add a little more bump..
 
aslo... plug and play... hows that work... where do you plug in, and does the kicker have its own amp?

I ordered mine through crutchfield it taps in by the drivers side kick panel not into the Bose sub. It def gives the truck a good deep base. It does the job for a PNP clean install.


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  • 4 weeks later...
On 6/2/2018 at 6:54 PM, Ichie123 said:

8ohm. 6x9 in the front 6.5 in the back.
Roughly 42.5watts per speaker per Bose tech department.

so if you replace them with a "std" 4ohm speakers am i going to have issues? looking at 

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R9633IX/Infinity-Reference-REF-9633ix.html?tp=91&avf=Y

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108R6532IX/Infinity-Reference-REF-6532ix.html?tp=78072&avf=Y

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^ You cannot directly read a speakers Impedance with an ohmmeter. the apparent resistance in ohms is not the actual "Resistance". Impedance is dependent on the inductive reactance of the coil and the frequency of the wave being pushed thru it. Resistance changes as the frequency changes so published impedance is more or less an average.

 

I like my Bose ...best OEM stereo i ever had. no mods needed.

Edited by Pearl2017
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1 hour ago, Pearl2017 said:

^ You cannot directly read a speakers Impedance with an ohmmeter. the apparent resistance in ohms is not the actual "Resistance". Impedance is dependent on the inductive reactance of the coil and the frequency of the wave being pushed thru it. Resistance changes as the frequency changes so published impedance is more or less an average.

 

I like my Bose ...best OEM stereo i ever had. no mods needed.

Im not that  electronically minded and have never been able to quite grasp resistance in relation to impedance entirely. I know impedance changes with frequency  and  it seems from what you are saying that with no signal you cannot compute the average impedance(?) This confuses me somewhat as every  time I measure a speaker that is "rated" at say 4 ohms directly from a MM with no signal it reads close to that 4 ohm so it seems I made  the mistake of  "assuming" that's why manufacturers rated them as "nominal"(?). ( I just measured  a few different speakers that I have sitting here, 1st tweeter rated at 6 ohms read 5.8, a different brand of tweeter rated at 4 ohms read 3.9, a Toyota factory speaker marked 4 ohms showed exactly 4 ohms.)

Crap,  I think I just confused myself even more after re reading this! 

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Here's an email from Bose when I asked the same question about my 2017 Sierra CC 2 weeks ago. Even Crutchfield will tell you it's 2.4 ohm for some and 2.7 for other speakers. Seems like it's not consistent throughout the truck

 

On Thu, Jul 12, 2018 at 9:11 AM, [email protected]

Hello Kenrick,

Thank you for your inquiry regarding the Bose Automotive Music System in your 2017 GMC Sierra.   In answer to your question, in general the speakers are 2 ohms what is the specific model you have extended cab, crew cab etc ?

Patty

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I have a 2018 Silverado LTZ that came with bucket seats, so Bose 6+1 system with amp in back. I replaced all the factory speakers (doors and dash) and left the factory center console sub. Replacement speakers were Focal K2 Power 165KRC co-axle speakers in rear doors, 165KRX2 2-Way components in the front, and 3krk3 midrange 3.5" speakers in the dash. Running off the factory Bose amp right now, it definitely lost some volume, but picked up much better high frequencies and tighter low end bass, IMO. Not knocking the Bose setup, as it sounded very good. I have plans to add a JL Audio amp, along with the Nav-TV processor to keep the system sounds (phone calls, door chimes, seatbelt, etc) from being amplified; but am no longer in a hurry to do the work since the sound is fine as is with the Bose amp, and gets as loud as I use 90% of the time. The dash speakers were the most difficult to decide on. Leaving the Bose speakers, created a volume issue given they are more efficient than the Focals. So most volume came from the dash, and under-utilized the door Focals. Replacing the dash with Focal lost that over all volume (amp had to work harder), but balanced out the system better in terms of tone quality. Removing them completely, left me without a ringer for the phone or voice from the OnStar and Nav system. I am not sure using a Focal midrange driver in the dash, without a crossover, was the right call, but I am getting used to it. I think replacing the amp will make a huge difference and may force me to either change the dash speakers to full range, or add a crossover to clip. My original plan was to just replace the Sub. Glad I didn't go that route given some of the rattle reports here, and the quality of the bass I am getting from the Focals with the factory sub.   

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I have a 2018 Silverado LTZ that came with bucket seats, so Bose 6+1 system with amp in back. I replaced all the factory speakers (doors and dash) and left the factory center console sub. Replacement speakers were Focal K2 Power 165KRC co-axle speakers in rear doors, 165KRX2 2-Way components in the front, and 3krk3 midrange 3.5" speakers in the dash. Running off the factory Bose amp right now, it definitely lost some volume, but picked up much better high frequencies and tighter low end bass, IMO. Not knocking the Bose setup, as it sounded very good. I have plans to add a JL Audio amp, along with the Nav-TV processor to keep the system sounds (phone calls, door chimes, seatbelt, etc) from being amplified; but am no longer in a hurry to do the work since the sound is fine as is with the Bose amp, and gets as loud as I use 90% of the time. The dash speakers were the most difficult to decide on. Leaving the Bose speakers, created a volume issue given they are more efficient than the Focals. So most volume came from the dash, and under-utilized the door Focals. Replacing the dash with Focal lost that over all volume (amp had to work harder), but balanced out the system better in terms of tone quality. Removing them completely, left me without a ringer for the phone or voice from the OnStar and Nav system. I am not sure using a Focal midrange driver in the dash, without a crossover, was the right call, but I am getting used to it. I think replacing the amp will make a huge difference and may force me to either change the dash speakers to full range, or add a crossover to clip. My original plan was to just replace the Sub. Glad I didn't go that route given some of the rattle reports here, and the quality of the bass I am getting from the Focals with the factory sub.   

I’m looking at an infinity set of 6x9 and 6.5 at 2.7 ohm... see how volume is I guess


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  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Not to thread jack, but you guys seem to know an awful lot about this..

 

i have a 17 Sierra all terrain fully loaded slt with Bose system... how can I figure out if I have a factory sub? I don’t think it has one but I’d like to check... also how hard is it to add one and how much would it cost?

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20 hours ago, 99Mastercraft said:

Not to thread jack, but you guys seem to know an awful lot about this..

 

i have a 17 Sierra all terrain fully loaded slt with Bose system... how can I figure out if I have a factory sub? I don’t think it has one but I’d like to check... also how hard is it to add one and how much would it cost?

You can pull your RPO codes from the sticker in the glove box and then look them up. Or you can email [email protected] and request your build sheet. You just need to supply your VIN in the email.

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